My return system build
05-06-2012, 09:49 AM
#1
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My return system build Well, It's taken me a while to get this done, was supposed to be on the winter build list, but a couple other things got in the way. Not sure why I put it off for so long, but it really wasn't that hard. Expensive? yeah, kinda. But I wouldn't cheap out on fuel system stuff. I've done it before and I've actually lost sleep over the fear of my baby burning to the ground. BUY QUALITY FUEL PARTS!! I seriously can't stress that enough!
Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.
I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines.
Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end.
I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower.
Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure!
At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)
After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.
I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now.. yeah, it's working..
Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.
I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines.
Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end. I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower.
Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure!
At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)
After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.
I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now..
yeah, it's working.. Last edited by bayer-z28; 05-06-2012 at 09:55 AM.
05-08-2012, 08:22 PM
#5
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/N...edProducts.pdf
http://www.holley.com/350008ERL.asp
Last edited by bayer-z28; 05-08-2012 at 08:33 PM.
06-01-2012, 07:10 PM
#6
looks good to me! how does putting fittings on the nylon braided line compare to the stainless braided line? i prefer the look and not getting jabbed in the finger by a stray line and bleeding all over everything! lol
secondly, i have a 90* an fitting on the top of my bucket and need to run a -8 feed line from it to the front and i've never dropped a tank and am hoping i can avoid doing so. is there a good place to run a line over the tank somewhere? i still have the other 3 lines in place so it cant come from that direction. thanks for any input on this.
here's what i'm referring to so there's no confusion........
secondly, i have a 90* an fitting on the top of my bucket and need to run a -8 feed line from it to the front and i've never dropped a tank and am hoping i can avoid doing so. is there a good place to run a line over the tank somewhere? i still have the other 3 lines in place so it cant come from that direction. thanks for any input on this.
here's what i'm referring to so there's no confusion........
12-25-2012, 12:44 PM
#7
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: N. Falmouth MA
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmm.. Forgot about this thread... I taped over the end of the line to keep it sealed and just kep poking and twisting with it until it found a spot it liked to go over the tank. The braided stuff is pretty easy to deal with. I actually tried to fuse over some of the small frays, but that didn't work, so I used a small pair of scissors to clean the ends up before stuffing the fittings on.
These fittings went on pretty east and I tested some of the fittings by pulling on them and they didn't budge at all. So if they're going to leak, it's not going to be a complete blow-off like I was worried about.
And I did have a small leak at the supply line to the regulator. It was leaking right at the JIC flare. Guy at work suggested using some lapping compound on the fitting and the boss fitting to get them friendly with each other. That worked like a charm! Lapped the two together.
Still runs good. Took a bit to get the fuel pressure at a stable point. I'd set it to 58 and it would gradually climb to 60 and stay there. Dial it down a hair and would stay at 56. So I just set it back to 58-60 and it stays around 59# now. Retuned for it in the following weeks/months.
These fittings went on pretty east and I tested some of the fittings by pulling on them and they didn't budge at all. So if they're going to leak, it's not going to be a complete blow-off like I was worried about.
And I did have a small leak at the supply line to the regulator. It was leaking right at the JIC flare. Guy at work suggested using some lapping compound on the fitting and the boss fitting to get them friendly with each other. That worked like a charm! Lapped the two together.
Still runs good. Took a bit to get the fuel pressure at a stable point. I'd set it to 58 and it would gradually climb to 60 and stay there. Dial it down a hair and would stay at 56. So I just set it back to 58-60 and it stays around 59# now. Retuned for it in the following weeks/months.
Trending Topics
01-12-2013, 09:07 PM
#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
nice. im gonna do something simular but im gonna run a hardline and im just gonna run it into the stock plastic line with a fuel fitting adaptor into an 6an fitting. still using an aeromotive fpr.
3/8 hard line is WAY cheaper then an lines lol
3/8 hard line is WAY cheaper then an lines lol
01-21-2013, 08:28 AM
#14
On The Tree
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ca
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What size of adapter fitting did you use for the return line??
Well, It's taken me a while to get this done, was supposed to be on the winter build list, but a couple other things got in the way. Not sure why I put it off for so long, but it really wasn't that hard. Expensive? yeah, kinda. But I wouldn't cheap out on fuel system stuff. I've done it before and I've actually lost sleep over the fear of my baby burning to the ground. BUY QUALITY FUEL PARTS!! I seriously can't stress that enough!
Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.
I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines. Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end.
I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower.
Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure!
At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)
After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.
I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now.. yeah, it's working..
Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.
I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines.
Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end. I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower.
Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure!
At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)
After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.
I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now..
yeah, it's working..
01-21-2013, 11:58 AM
#17
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
which part, theres alot of "parts" lol
Fittings are fitting for the most part, so anything with 6an will do. Youll need the regulatof of course lol
Now with the regulator, if it doesnt have the fitting, like mine, make sure you get a 6an straght cut with oring. then form there is just plumbing it to the back.
If you run it back to the stock return line in the back, you need a 6AN Male To 5/16" Quick Disconnect fitting to fit to the plastic tube. but if you are gonna run it all the way to the back you just need a 6an elbow and then run a line all the way to the regulator. you can get them from majority of our sponsors to ebay. just look up 6AN fittings and thats all you need really. If your hard bent on name brand, EARL and Russel are a couple. Summit is also a well know supplier
Fittings are fitting for the most part, so anything with 6an will do. Youll need the regulatof of course lol
Now with the regulator, if it doesnt have the fitting, like mine, make sure you get a 6an straght cut with oring. then form there is just plumbing it to the back.
If you run it back to the stock return line in the back, you need a 6AN Male To 5/16" Quick Disconnect fitting to fit to the plastic tube. but if you are gonna run it all the way to the back you just need a 6an elbow and then run a line all the way to the regulator. you can get them from majority of our sponsors to ebay. just look up 6AN fittings and thats all you need really. If your hard bent on name brand, EARL and Russel are a couple. Summit is also a well know supplier
Last edited by JoshuaGrooms83; 01-21-2013 at 12:22 PM.
01-21-2013, 03:59 PM
#20
On The Tree
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ca
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heres a russel brand, its where i got mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RUS-640930-R...item4cffd56a38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RUS-640930-R...item4cffd56a38
that's not it.