Fueling & Injection - My return system build

Well, It's taken me a while to get this done, was supposed to be on the winter build list, but a couple other things got in the way. Not sure why I put it off for so long, but it really wasn't that hard. Expensive? yeah, kinda. But I wouldn't cheap out on fuel system stuff. I've done it before and I've actually lost sleep over the fear of my baby burning to the ground. BUY QUALITY FUEL PARTS!! I seriously can't stress that enough!

Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.

I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg7/scaled.php?server=7&filename=img1904aw.jpg&res=landing

Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg816/scaled.php?server=816&filename=img2077g.jpg&res=landing

Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines. :) Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg854/scaled.php?server=854&filename=img2087gm.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg827/scaled.php?server=827&filename=img2086nr.jpg&res=landing

I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg825/scaled.php?server=825&filename=img2088n.jpg&res=landing

It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg406/scaled.php?server=406&filename=img0023sr.jpg&res=landing

Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg843/scaled.php?server=843&filename=img2078u.jpg&res=landing



Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower. :lol:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/303414_3524539003771_1581011704_2594096_691858836_ n.jpg


Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure! :D
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg850/scaled.php?server=850&filename=img2075r.jpg&res=landing

At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)


After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.

I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg401/scaled.php?server=401&filename=img2093y.jpg&res=landing

Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now.. :lol: yeah, it's working..

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525674_3524625045922_1581011704_2594144_1557462389 _n.jpg

Opinions?

Who makes that black braided line? Do You know if it is nhra approved?

Look at the first picture, what do you see?

Who makes that black braided line? Do You know if it is nhra approved?

Yes it is. See Page 73.
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/NHRAAcceptedProducts.pdf

http://www.holley.com/350008ERL.asp

looks good to me! how does putting fittings on the nylon braided line compare to the stainless braided line? i prefer the look and not getting jabbed in the finger by a stray line and bleeding all over everything! lol

secondly, i have a 90* an fitting on the top of my bucket and need to run a -8 feed line from it to the front and i've never dropped a tank and am hoping i can avoid doing so. is there a good place to run a line over the tank somewhere? i still have the other 3 lines in place so it cant come from that direction. thanks for any input on this.

here's what i'm referring to so there's no confusion........
http://i1206.photobucket.com/albums/bb453/BACKAGAIN74/2001%20BLACK%20SS/DSCN1907-1.jpg

Hmm.. Forgot about this thread... I taped over the end of the line to keep it sealed and just kep poking and twisting with it until it found a spot it liked to go over the tank. The braided stuff is pretty easy to deal with. I actually tried to fuse over some of the small frays, but that didn't work, so I used a small pair of scissors to clean the ends up before stuffing the fittings on.

These fittings went on pretty east and I tested some of the fittings by pulling on them and they didn't budge at all. So if they're going to leak, it's not going to be a complete blow-off like I was worried about.

And I did have a small leak at the supply line to the regulator. It was leaking right at the JIC flare. Guy at work suggested using some lapping compound on the fitting and the boss fitting to get them friendly with each other. That worked like a charm! Lapped the two together.

Still runs good. Took a bit to get the fuel pressure at a stable point. I'd set it to 58 and it would gradually climb to 60 and stay there. Dial it down a hair and would stay at 56. So I just set it back to 58-60 and it stays around 59# now. Retuned for it in the following weeks/months.

nice. im gonna do something simular but im gonna run a hardline and im just gonna run it into the stock plastic line with a fuel fitting adaptor into an 6an fitting. still using an aeromotive fpr.
3/8 hard line is WAY cheaper then an lines lol

Looks good man

I'm bumping this because I'm wondering how our stock regulators run. I am running 15psi of boost, and need to do an adjustable pressure regulator, but not sure where the factory one is.

I'm bumping this because I'm wondering how our stock regulators run. I am running 15psi of boost, and need to do an adjustable pressure regulator, but not sure where the factory one is.

it's in the top of the fuel pump bucket.

we just take the old one out and thats it right? no need to put anything else in there correct

been a while but i'm pretty sure that's it.

What size of adapter fitting did you use for the return line??

Well, It's taken me a while to get this done, was supposed to be on the winter build list, but a couple other things got in the way. Not sure why I put it off for so long, but it really wasn't that hard. Expensive? yeah, kinda. But I wouldn't cheap out on fuel system stuff. I've done it before and I've actually lost sleep over the fear of my baby burning to the ground. BUY QUALITY FUEL PARTS!! I seriously can't stress that enough!

Anyway. I was getting ~56lbs idle and 45lbs WOT at higher RPM's. Tried changing the stock regulator to a Deplhi unit and that didn't help. Even changed the fuel filter. no bueno. So it was time to plumb a return. I even check the pump and all of the connections.

I swear I thought I had more pics of the parts. But anyway, I ended up with 8 Jeg's hats and two boxes of fittings, hose, clamps, zip-ties and other misc items. I planned the build in my head, then mapped it out on scratch paper, then ordered. Still ended up needing some last minute parts, but it happens.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg7/scaled.php?server=7&filename=img1904aw.jpg&res=landing

Cut your hatch and access the pump to remove the stock regulator. Just remove the c-clip that retains it and be SURE to remove the screen and the small o-ring.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg816/scaled.php?server=816&filename=img2077g.jpg&res=landing

Then you can go underneath and loosen the tank straps a little. This "can" gain some wiggle room, but didn't allow me much as the tank was pretty much sitting on the Upper PHB. You can wiggle the stock lines loose and pull them out from up top. Then you can go underneath, remove the stock steel return line from the T which is aft the fuel filter.
Now the fun begins! -Seriously, I love making these lines. :) Start routing your braided lines. Tape off the ends to eliminate getting crap in the lines. I attached one hose end and snaked the hose through, find the length you need, cut and attach the other hose end.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg854/scaled.php?server=854&filename=img2087gm.jpg&res=landing

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg827/scaled.php?server=827&filename=img2086nr.jpg&res=landing

I just used a 3/8" -6 quick disconnect fitting for the filter, then route the line forward. Used some 1500* heat tape for where the line routes over and anywhere NEAR the exhaust. I know we're "technically" not supposed to zip-tie the hose to anything else, but.......... It wasn't going to work routing these along the SFC's. I may re-do it some time, but I'm not in a hurry.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg825/scaled.php?server=825&filename=img2088n.jpg&res=landing

It's actually about 2" away from the steering shaft, so don't panic. lol
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg406/scaled.php?server=406&filename=img0023sr.jpg&res=landing

Once the two lines are ran to the pump bucket, you're pretty much done back there.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg843/scaled.php?server=843&filename=img2078u.jpg&res=landing



Had the stock return line TIG'd into a plug. Was a really bizarre fitting and couldn't find a plug for it and had to get the car out of the garage this week. -It's blocking the lawn mower. :lol:
http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/s720x720/303414_3524539003771_1581011704_2594096_691858836_ n.jpg


Go up front and find a spot for the regulator and see what length you will need for the return. (-6 in my case) Attach the return. This is a bypass regulator, so I'm running it as such.
Strong fuel pressure! :D
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg850/scaled.php?server=850&filename=img2075r.jpg&res=landing

At this point, you can just measure and cut your front pressure lines. I did a -8 up front and DID manage to find a Jegs 3/8 -8 quick disconnect fitting in black. No tree of adapters. Found an Aeromotive fitting -8ORB to -8 fitting for the FAST rails. (since I asked on here and nobody could seem to find me a definitive part number.)


After it's all plumbed, just cycle the key many times and check for leaks. You can also watch your gauge to see if the pressure is falling. In my case I had a small leak on the front of my rails where I must have cracked the crossover loose and forgot to attach it. No big deal. Snug it up recheck, recheck and clean up the spots of fuel. Backed it out of the garage and shut it off (ran for 10 seconds).. Then got a bucket of soapy water and doused the engine compartment to wash out any of the fuel that had spilled. Rinsed it off, ran the car to warm-up and continue to check for leaks.

I drove mine and found a leak at the feed line 90* fitting to the regulator which was easily fixed. I don't like the angle of the feed line, so I'm gonna look into maybe a 45* fitting to see if that will take some stress off the line. Was a hard time finding a place for the regulator. Was going to hit the hood either way.
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg401/scaled.php?server=401&filename=img2093y.jpg&res=landing

Anyway... All i have to do now is correct the tune. The pressure sits solid at 60* now. Runs 10.5 a/f at WOT now.. :lol: yeah, it's working..

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/525674_3524625045922_1581011704_2594144_1557462389 _n.jpg

looks like he said 6 AN. it was kinda an afterthought statement so it was hard to see. lol Im using a 3/8 hard line myself, roughly 6AN equivalant

looks like he said 6 AN. it was kinda an afterthought statement so it was hard to see. lol Im using a 3/8 hard line myself, roughly 6AN equivalant

do you know where I can purchase that fitting or the part number???

which part, theres alot of "parts" lol
Fittings are fitting for the most part, so anything with 6an will do. Youll need the regulatof of course lol
Now with the regulator, if it doesnt have the fitting, like mine, make sure you get a 6an straght cut with oring. then form there is just plumbing it to the back.

If you run it back to the stock return line in the back, you need a 6AN Male To 5/16" Quick Disconnect fitting to fit to the plastic tube. but if you are gonna run it all the way to the back you just need a 6an elbow and then run a line all the way to the regulator. you can get them from majority of our sponsors to ebay. just look up 6AN fittings and thats all you need really. If your hard bent on name brand, EARL and Russel are a couple. Summit is also a well know supplier

which part, theres alot of "parts" lol
the adapter for the return line

heres a russel brand, its where i got mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RUS-640930-Russell-6-Male-5-16-SAE-Quick-Disconnect-Male-Fuel-Fitting-/330709690936?pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cffd56a38

heres a russel brand, its where i got mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RUS-640930-Russell-6-Male-5-16-SAE-Quick-Disconnect-Male-Fuel-Fitting-/330709690936?pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cffd56a38
\
that's not it.

which one are you referring to then? you talking about the female one?

heres a really good guide that i based my fuel setup off of. has a good run down of parts and i believe there part number. hope this helps more

http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/1075816-adding-adjustable-fpr-stock-rails.html

http://www.nastyperformance.com/shop/russell-pushon-efi-644123/

oh ok! thats the female side of it. If you plan on puting the regulator on the feed line inbetween the rail and the feedline then yes, youll need that. that or you plan on running an aftermarket fuel filer or check valve, that could be useful

If you do it like me and place the FPR on the rail, attaching it to the 4an fitting on the stock rails, then you shouldnt need that one. Either way, if you plan on using the stock plastic return line in the back of the car, youll need the fitting i suggested. If not then disregard.

A very easy mod we do on h/c or fi cars is just add a return line from the front of the rail to the return line under the car. Works real good holding pressure and fairly cheap.

^^^^ pretty much what id did. im still working on it to pretty it up a bit, but its about done. heres a few pics to get the gist
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/JT_Grooms/P1040674_zpsa52b56ee.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/JT_Grooms/P1040675_zps11bf0a86.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/JT_Grooms/P1040676_zps07b35020.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/JT_Grooms/P1040677_zps30772556.jpg
http://i535.photobucket.com/albums/ee357/JT_Grooms/P1040640_zps128a0df9.jpg
all i gotta do is fit the adaptor and and fitting on and then plug it in. Make sure to remove the shrader valve out of the rail and the make sure to remove the stock regulator out of the fuel pump assembly. if you have the fuel pump trap mod, this is easily accomplished.

also if you use a hard line, make sure its pressure rated for fuel pressure, and a tube bending tool is a must to get good bends so you dont collapse the line. it makes nice mandral bends. also a punch that fits inside the tube to help round it out helps to fit the ends on better. just some pointers. Running An lines would be easier but cost about twice as much, but the ends are easier to get on to the tube vs getting an fittings on an stainless braided lines lol those suck lol i still gotta do this for my rear mount oil lines

^ I like that idea..

I found recently that the V6 cars have a return setup. Was thinking of grabbing their return line to see if it'll fit.

yeah i heread about it but thought id try my hand at custom routing lol
one thing to add though, i did put a flexible hose between the AFPR and the hard line to help with heat and vibration. i think it looks better too lol

^ Yeah, good idea with the flex hose.

yep lol it also tucks behind the power steering now lol