Procharger & BR7EF Gap
07-07-2012, 05:26 PM
#1
Procharger & BR7EF Gap I know that typically the tr6's are used, but id like to go ahead and go one more step colder. i can find all kinds of info on gap for those but not the 7's. if you could give me a few suggestions let me know. mods in sig.
07-08-2012, 10:52 PM
#7
awesome alchemist. that was my next question. i was like what in the hell are they coming out of the box as. ill still be sure and check them of course, but I think my skimping days are over now that I have signed on to the FI projects.
Trending Topics
07-13-2012, 12:24 AM
#8
just an interesting lil side note....all of them did indeed come out of the box just as the alchemist said ( 0.025- 0.026) except for one which was at .042.
I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
07-13-2012, 08:37 AM
#9
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Duluth, MN
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just an interesting lil side note....all of them did indeed come out of the box just as the alchemist said ( 0.025- 0.026) except for one which was at .042.
I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
I used a feeler gauge and set them all to .026. id always used a coin style, but i left it to where it would go in, but it was a tight fit, and a small amount of "hold" was still present. if that sounds wrong. let me know. other wise these are going to be put up , safe from the cats.
07-13-2012, 07:53 PM
#12
my 4.8 turbo car running pump+meth
22lbs of boost, 125shot, 15deg timing broke a piston, only #7 to be exact, so it must have been just on the edge of the heat range.
ive since put br7ef's in and hit it just as hard with no problems.
the turbo truck me and my friend built makes 605rwhp on 17psi (locked 80e)
runs tr6 plugs, at 20lbs pump+meth and 16deg timing... on the track and goes 10.80@ 127 @4700lbs
and has never broken a piston or had spark issue with the tr6.
so ide say somewhere right passed that with the nitrous and **** i have in there was too much lol
07-14-2012, 12:41 AM
#14
Always run a non projected tip with ANY amount of boost or nitrous.
A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.
NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.
Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.
A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.
NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.
Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.
07-14-2012, 03:44 PM
#15
Always run a non projected tip with ANY amount of boost or nitrous.
A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.
NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.
Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.
A TR6 is not a non projected tip plug.
NGK part number 3346 or 1049 is what I normally recommend for street cars on less than 20psi of boost.
Non projected tip plug keeps the porcelain from protruding so far into the chamber and keeps it from acting like a glow plug and also the colder heat range lowers tip temperature 140 degrees each cooler range you go. That's a big difference in temp. and could mean the difference in your stock bottom end or forged bottom end from imploding.
yeah 3346 is the # on my 7's. i figured why go 6 when you can afford to go a little colder with no fallbacks.
