Nagging Question
10-16-2012, 06:28 AM
#2
I ran 4.56s' for 4 1/2 years,this past spring put the OEM 3.23 rearend back in. 4.56s' were great on the street,but too much for the strip,had to shift into 4th to finish the 1/4. If you're stock,or close to it,4.10s' would be the limit for the strip in order to trap in 3rd.
On the street,1st and 2nd with 4.56s' were wicked,mpg was good as the computor handled it well,21.5 mpg at freeway legal speeds,2500rpm @ 60mph 3000rpm @ 72mph.
Even took 5 trips to Florida from Ohio with the 4.56s'. Currently got the OEM 3.23 rearend in it. Gonna put the 4.56 rearend back in after I change it out to 3.73s or 4.10s'.
-4.56s' for a pure street car and fun
-4.10s' in a stock(or close to stock) car for street and strip
-3.73s' is the typical recommended ratio mod
On the street,1st and 2nd with 4.56s' were wicked,mpg was good as the computor handled it well,21.5 mpg at freeway legal speeds,2500rpm @ 60mph 3000rpm @ 72mph.
Even took 5 trips to Florida from Ohio with the 4.56s'. Currently got the OEM 3.23 rearend in it. Gonna put the 4.56 rearend back in after I change it out to 3.73s or 4.10s'.
-4.56s' for a pure street car and fun
-4.10s' in a stock(or close to stock) car for street and strip
-3.73s' is the typical recommended ratio mod
10-16-2012, 11:55 AM
#3
the only thing i have planned is SLP lip and LT headers and Borla exhaust. till i break the motor then i will be doing a cam and such when i go to rebuild. so i think i will go with the 4.56 for the rear seems like an awesome setup, did you notice any power difference?
10-16-2012, 04:31 PM
#4
gears don't increase power (HP),gears increase torque (rotational force) to the axles. But to put it in perspective,and there'll probably be comments,made my 98 305hp car feel like a 430hp car. It became a good 1/8 miler with not much above that. In the 1/4,I'd be way ahead of low 12 sec cars at the 1/8 mile but then they'd go flying past me at about 3/4 track.
10-16-2012, 10:05 PM
#5
I dont expect to do much track time if any at all <5% most of mine is a DD and a cruze around town. had a few challenges but i was curious if the 4.56 offered a chance at better gasmillage like you reported, im stuck between the 4.10 and 4.56 currently :c
10-16-2012, 10:11 PM
#6
Moderator
A 4.56 will give you better acceleration but at the expense of gas mileage. Also acceleration will ONLY be better if your tires are sticky enough and/or your power is low enough.
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10-17-2012, 06:04 PM
#9
Moderator
10-20-2012, 11:07 AM
#10
Thinking I may start out with 3.23 and if I want more ill go with a 3.73
My new issue/recent discovery. I was dicking around at a cruze night and tried to put the car in first... yeah that was a fight. Now it slips out of the selection and into second
Do not confuse this with trans slip. I'm talking about the selector. From 2-1 I have to hold it in place. Is this normal for these cars?
10-21-2012, 05:55 PM
#13
Moderator
10-21-2012, 10:08 PM
#14
yes,you can remove it,but not recommended. As previous post,let it shift 'auto' at the track.
From a stop in 3rd or 4th,the forward sprag is engaged,from a stop in 1st or 2nd,the overrunning clutches are engaged.Too much manual 1st or 2nd from a stop will prematurely burn up the overrunning clutch.
From a stop in 3rd or 4th,the forward sprag is engaged,from a stop in 1st or 2nd,the overrunning clutches are engaged.Too much manual 1st or 2nd from a stop will prematurely burn up the overrunning clutch.
10-22-2012, 12:08 AM
#15
yes,you can remove it,but not recommended. As previous post,let it shift 'auto' at the track.
From a stop in 3rd or 4th,the forward sprag is engaged,from a stop in 1st or 2nd,the overrunning clutches are engaged.Too much manual 1st or 2nd from a stop will prematurely burn up the overrunning clutch.
From a stop in 3rd or 4th,the forward sprag is engaged,from a stop in 1st or 2nd,the overrunning clutches are engaged.Too much manual 1st or 2nd from a stop will prematurely burn up the overrunning clutch.
