Tired of Security Light
11-10-2012, 09:27 AM
#1
Tired of Security Light My security light stays on, all the time. When I bought the car, the previous owner had installed an aftermarket cd player, a sub, and new speakers, plus two little tweeters on the A-pillars. I took all that junk out except the new stock location speakers and the tweeters and put the stock cd player back in and got rid of the big damn box where the ttops go in the back. But my security light stays on constantly. my car starts, runs fine everytime but that damn light stays on! How do I get the damn thing to turn off??
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11-12-2012, 07:40 PM
#8
If you turn the key on and the bcm doesn't see the proper resistance value from the key then the car will not crank and the pcm will not receive the fuel enable signal. Chances are someone has already tuned the vats out in the pcm and rewired the starter relay. Which will leave the light on!
11-13-2012, 05:44 PM
#11
Ok. Is there no way the audio shop that put the stupid stereo system in the car messed up a wire in the dash or anything? I took that stuff out and put the stock cd player back in, but they had a sub and rca jacks, and a usb port added in the wiring...a bunch of crap i didnt want.
11-13-2012, 05:46 PM
#12
The codes in the manual have nothing to do with the security light...that is to program the headlights, map lights, signal flashers, etc. I am not talking about the blinking red light on top of the dash. I am talking about the security light on the gauge cluster.
11-14-2012, 08:46 PM
#15
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Of all the vats problems I have fixed over the years, 90% of the were cut wires from the ignition key cylinder. Everytime one turns the key the little wires bend and wear and after a while the will break. Here is a picture of the wires i am talking about:
this is a newer version with better wires insulator but same basic set up. The old wires that break were usually orange and white instead of 'clear' wrapped. I bet one of these is cut. The car will usually start with a cut wire as long as battery power hasn't been disconnected and the last key used to start the car had the correct chip in it. The light flashes to tell you at that point there is obviously a problem. If battery power was lost then the car wont start. Unfortunatly you have to remove the steering wheel and S.I.R. coil to physically check the wires. Hope this helps some...
this is a newer version with better wires insulator but same basic set up. The old wires that break were usually orange and white instead of 'clear' wrapped. I bet one of these is cut. The car will usually start with a cut wire as long as battery power hasn't been disconnected and the last key used to start the car had the correct chip in it. The light flashes to tell you at that point there is obviously a problem. If battery power was lost then the car wont start. Unfortunatly you have to remove the steering wheel and S.I.R. coil to physically check the wires. Hope this helps some...
11-15-2012, 07:57 PM
#16
I have an aftermarket steering wheel and no airbag crap anymore...Have an air bad light on cluster as well...but the security light was on before i did all that so i know that wasnt it. I have had the battery disconnected on a few occasions...the car always starts and runs fine. just has that security light on the cluster...it never blinks...just stays on solid.
12-20-2012, 06:43 PM
#18
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i got the same issue. my bet is on the lock cylinder wire being bad, i just havent pulled it to check yet.
i see you mentioned you dont have airbags anymore.. how did you get that light off?
i see you mentioned you dont have airbags anymore.. how did you get that light off?
12-26-2012, 12:25 PM
#19
Wanted to mention the possibility that if he had a bunch of stereo crap in there he may also have had a remote starter, which means they may have tinkered with the passkey stuff with one of those passkey fakeout boxes or something and didn't wire it well.
