Lt1 cooling hiccup
#1
Lt1 cooling hiccup
The problem started a few days ago while warming up the car in the morning before going to work. I came out side and the top had poped off the coolant res. it was smoking and the car shut down before I went out to it. Before that, the thermostat went bad in the same situation(before work), and I just took it out. I left it like that for a couple weeks and I also replaced the water pump. The cluster is having problems also because the gas gauge is never correct. I started it up again(bout a week later)after putting in fluid And letting it warm up. Before the temp gauge moved it over heated again, so this leads me to believe that the cooling sensor for the cluster is also bad. I don't believe the head gaskets are bad because there is no coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant, it also does not smoke. The only mods on the car: cat back exsauhst, cold air intake.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
#5
When I fill up the car, the gauge will go up to full. At 3/4 of a tank it has about 65 miles until empty. At a quarter tank it can run out at any time. Also, I slowly pored the coolant in and then shook the car to get the air out. Doing this has always worked for me.
Because it has a reverse cooling system would my method have no affect.
Because it has a reverse cooling system would my method have no affect.
#7
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When I fill up the car, the gauge will go up to full. At 3/4 of a tank it has about 65 miles until empty. At a quarter tank it can run out at any time. Also, I slowly pored the coolant in and then shook the car to get the air out. Doing this has always worked for me.
Because it has a reverse cooling system would my method have no affect.
Because it has a reverse cooling system would my method have no affect.
The behavior you describe of the fuel gauge is fairly characteristic of the fuel gauge on these cars but not to the extent you mention. shbox.com has a couple good diagnostics you can try.
Pouring the coolant in slowly and shaking is not the correct way to get the air out. Check the guide I posted. LT1s aren't typical.
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#8
You can laugh all you want.
But, I feel bad for you if you bleed your system every time you add coolant; you are wasting your time.
I understand they aren't typical, that's why I brought up the reverse cooling system.
But, I feel bad for you if you bleed your system every time you add coolant; you are wasting your time.
I understand they aren't typical, that's why I brought up the reverse cooling system.
#10
TECH Senior Member
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You don't need to bleed the system if you add coolant to the radiator - only when you drain the system. And even then it's not hard to crack two screws while filling.
I haven't had to add coolant to my car in 3 years - sounds like you're adding it frequently so I would try and figure out why you're losing coolant.
I haven't had to add coolant to my car in 3 years - sounds like you're adding it frequently so I would try and figure out why you're losing coolant.
#11
You don't need to bleed the system if you add coolant to the radiator - only when you drain the system. And even then it's not hard to crack two screws while filling.
I haven't had to add coolant to my car in 3 years - sounds like you're adding it frequently so I would try and figure out why you're losing coolant.
I haven't had to add coolant to my car in 3 years - sounds like you're adding it frequently so I would try and figure out why you're losing coolant.
The only thing I can't find reasonable is that I've been driving the car a while after doing the water pump(changing the fluid). And then this randomly happens, the wierd thing is that the fluid is forced out of the resivoir prior to the temp gauge moving.
The only reason I'm losing coolant is because of this problem.
#12
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I replaced my radiator recently and when I put it back in i had the 2 top hoses reversed and this caused water to shoot out of the reservoir, Also caused the car to get hot and blow a head gasket