First Fourth Gen, Starter Mods?
#1
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First Fourth Gen, Starter Mods?
Hey guys, just got my first fourth gen. Had an 84 Z28 for awhile but wanted to upgrade. Just curious on peoples opinions on what mod are best to start with. Car only has 40K on it so kinda want to keep it somewhat stock, internal wise, for the time being. What can i get to gain a little more power without doing to much? Not really familiar with the LT1. Already put on borla cat-back. Any opinions are much appriciated.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#4
Start simple.
Buy a service manual - u will need it as alot of aging parts start to break.
Next is a OBD I scanner - u will use this tool the most and will not regret buying one.
Okay until your ready stay away from cam changes and vlv spring changes. The stock vlv springs will not support any performance cam and changing anything in the vlv train will get u into trouble until your ready.
Better to start with headers - i have Edelbrock because their smog legal and kinda like them though i would run long tube headers if i could get away with it.
I have a MOROSO CAI sitting on the shelf called the Honker - less than $200 with a new filter.
Another bolt on is an airfoil to the throttle body. At nearly $60 kinda expensive for what u get but u will need this as performance improves. Or u could just go to a new 52mm TB itself - most are cast with the airfoil.
U can upgrade the ignition box and coil - most boxes have an rev-limiter built it. I looked at the new digital boxes and sent an ACCEL box back when i read the instructions and now have an MSD6AL with coil ready to install (on my list) - this gives me the low rpm multispark and a good rev-limiter.
Well thats enough for now. Lets us know when u need more.
cardo
Buy a service manual - u will need it as alot of aging parts start to break.
Next is a OBD I scanner - u will use this tool the most and will not regret buying one.
Okay until your ready stay away from cam changes and vlv spring changes. The stock vlv springs will not support any performance cam and changing anything in the vlv train will get u into trouble until your ready.
Better to start with headers - i have Edelbrock because their smog legal and kinda like them though i would run long tube headers if i could get away with it.
I have a MOROSO CAI sitting on the shelf called the Honker - less than $200 with a new filter.
Another bolt on is an airfoil to the throttle body. At nearly $60 kinda expensive for what u get but u will need this as performance improves. Or u could just go to a new 52mm TB itself - most are cast with the airfoil.
U can upgrade the ignition box and coil - most boxes have an rev-limiter built it. I looked at the new digital boxes and sent an ACCEL box back when i read the instructions and now have an MSD6AL with coil ready to install (on my list) - this gives me the low rpm multispark and a good rev-limiter.
Well thats enough for now. Lets us know when u need more.
cardo
#6
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Also an aftermarket ignition is completely useless as is an aftermarket coil. Many times a higher voltage coil can degrade the contacts in the OEM cap and rotor. And the ignition box has been proven to be worth nothing by itself, other than a lighter wallet. I've been running a STOCK ignition system on my 383 and it's MORE than enough.
Same thing with the throttle body airfoil. Might be worth one HP but it certainly isn't a must-have item, not to mention it blocks off a large portion of the IAC path.
Headers are good as is a CAI. Manual is good. Scanner is good. All that other stuff posted above by cardo0, not so much.
Same thing with the throttle body airfoil. Might be worth one HP but it certainly isn't a must-have item, not to mention it blocks off a large portion of the IAC path.
Headers are good as is a CAI. Manual is good. Scanner is good. All that other stuff posted above by cardo0, not so much.
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#9
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If you're not in an emissions state, it's nice to ditch the EGR/AIR pump crap if you're switching to long tube headers anyway. You'll do away with the cats and you won't have to buy EGR equipped headers (look better in the engine bay), and the removal of the AIR pump frees up some room in the engine bay as well.
Get a nice cat-back and Y-pipe to go with the headers, along with a cold air intake like others mentioned above. Once all of that is done (especially with long tubes) a tune would be a good step to take as well. The removal of EGR/AIR will throw a check engine light (doesn't harm anything) but that can be tuned out so it doesn't come on.
Also, keep up on the mainentance. Do spark plugs and wires while the headers are being done (much easier to get to), and maybe do a fuel filter as well.
Also
Get a nice cat-back and Y-pipe to go with the headers, along with a cold air intake like others mentioned above. Once all of that is done (especially with long tubes) a tune would be a good step to take as well. The removal of EGR/AIR will throw a check engine light (doesn't harm anything) but that can be tuned out so it doesn't come on.
Also, keep up on the mainentance. Do spark plugs and wires while the headers are being done (much easier to get to), and maybe do a fuel filter as well.
Also
#11
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yes a CAI is well worth it! I noticed a difference when I installed mine. most all longtubes sound the same. unpainted pacesetter headers would work decently enough and there one of the cheaper brands, they will rust eventually though. put a set on a friends 96' formula and the install was fairly easy and stress free ... no hammering needed lol
#12
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I have an extra air foil that was supplied with my car, if you basically pay for the shipping I will send it if you wanted to try one. Moving to Orlando and the less crap I have to haul the better.
#16
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i went from bone stock lt1, first did 1.6rr nsa got hardened pushrods and guide plates, than did pace setter headers ory pipe 3in dumped than cai the car really woke up day and night difference i would say get it tuned i didnt tune yet im dropping a cam than im also looking into a tune..goodluck!
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i believe it was on gm high tech performance, 1.6rr proved a 10 hp difference but i would recrommend a tune after such a mod, cai and longtubes are definetley a great start. I have the pacesetters, although they fit really well, there ceramic coating is honestly garbage, in fact next year i'm probably going to pull them off again and paint them....
#20
Also an aftermarket ignition is completely useless as is an aftermarket coil. Many times a higher voltage coil can degrade the contacts in the OEM cap and rotor. And the ignition box has been proven to be worth nothing by itself, other than a lighter wallet. I've been running a STOCK ignition system on my 383 and it's MORE than enough.
pacesetters coated long tubes is very popular for the price (not there y pipe though)... there was a huge thing lately on obx 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 stainless headers but i think they are on hold every wheres.