Big cam, road racing plans - what converter?
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Big cam, road racing plans - what converter?
I have a Tsunami Cam 235/240 .648"/.609" 111 and currently have a 4000 stall (i think 2.4 str) Fuddle converter.
The converter is not as effiecient as I would like it to be I think. (too much heat too fast, roll racing not the best) So I am thinking of getting a better one (I was thinking a Vig? but don't really know)
My problem comes in with the fact that I want to start road racing the car (at a road course and Silver State Classic), and have the big cam.
What converter (stall speed and recommended brand/model) do I get that will be efficient so as to not heat up as much and give me better at speed performance, but not give me fits with the big cam?
The converter is not as effiecient as I would like it to be I think. (too much heat too fast, roll racing not the best) So I am thinking of getting a better one (I was thinking a Vig? but don't really know)
My problem comes in with the fact that I want to start road racing the car (at a road course and Silver State Classic), and have the big cam.
What converter (stall speed and recommended brand/model) do I get that will be efficient so as to not heat up as much and give me better at speed performance, but not give me fits with the big cam?
Last edited by The Sad; 03-10-2013 at 11:02 AM.
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A closer to stock converter as you know won't perform good with that cam. You set up for drag racing...an m6 is really the only way to go with controlled shifting..Unless you change your setup dramatically, you come out of a curve ...you flash...you spin out easily with no control.
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#9
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As long as the OP keeps his revs higher than the stall speed, why would it matter?
Granted a 4000 stall is a bit high, but I've done a lot of road course racing (with a manual trans) and my RPM is never below about 3500. So I would say a 3200 stall.
Granted a 4000 stall is a bit high, but I've done a lot of road course racing (with a manual trans) and my RPM is never below about 3500. So I would say a 3200 stall.
#10
Go with the 10.5" Vigilante. This will give you more power to the ground at higher speeds, due to less slip and higher torque multiplication. Keep the stall lower (apx. 3,000rpm - 3,200rpm). For road racing I found that the Monolec 7500 transmission oil (http://products.lelubricants.com/ite...origin=keyword) will keep the gear train temperature down, and the planetaries (and the transmission too) will live much longer with this oil.
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We have used our 258mm 10.25" in road racing applications. They work very nicely, still have a good flash down low but couple very well up top. And you can also go with a multi disk and lock it up on the long straight aways. If you want to shoot me an Ask Chris be happy to go over all the options...
Chris
Chris
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A closer to stock converter as you know won't perform good with that cam. You set up for drag racing...an m6 is really the only way to go with controlled shifting..Unless you change your setup dramatically, you come out of a curve ...you flash...you spin out easily with no control.
and tailored to the cam & converter. My converter
has a low STR for its stall speed, which was a
specific choice (chasing efficiency). That makes
the converter have a broader band of torque
multiplication and a much less abrupt "slope".
The key question as I see it, for road racing, is
how efficient the midrange and high power coupling
is. Good enough and the TCC slip / torque multiplication
becomes a pedal controlled bonus. Too low and you
cook the juice.
Problem in shopping is, you're lucky to get even one
straight efficiency answer, let alone anything that
shows you how efficient, where. Most vendors don't
publish an efficiency test result of any kind, because
most don't have the means or inclination to do the
testing (transmission dyno and a whole bunch of
different speeds & loads).
So you're kinda stuck with anecdotes.
#15
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Old-style manuals are at the end of the line. Even Ferrari no longer makes a manual trans:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/360...nsmission.html
Granted, dual clutch automatics can be very controllable, but with push-buttons.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/360...nsmission.html
Granted, dual clutch automatics can be very controllable, but with push-buttons.