FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Hey, I've been seeing CTS-V2 oil cooler showing up on eBay and wondered if anyone had any idea how you might fit one on a V1. Example auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-AC-DELCO-...-/290891122796

DMM

Are you sure that's off a V2? I would think the GM Truck (2500 +) oil cooler adapter and lines would be a pretty good solution for the V1's since they fit tight against the block. They are plentiful and are 1/2 ID.

Here is a pic: http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssem...ssembly=431352

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Aftermarket coolers are cheap anyways. It would be just as easy to pick up one of those and mount it however you want.

Are you doing it for road racing or just because? Usually oil temps arent an issue on n/a street cars.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I'm trying to plan ahead for the LS3/blower build, itsslow98.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I've seen those auctions as well - just looked at that same one you linked yesterday - but I don't think it would work on a V1 with headers. With stock manifolds I imagine it would be fine. I was just under the car last night looking at that general area (trying to find where my new oil cooler setup is weeping oil) and I'm almost positive that oil cooler would be trying to occupy the same space that the Kooks header is in.

I bought one of those (actually, a Dorman aftermarket reproduction), just to see if I could adapt it and make it useful (with the idea of doing something similar to what this guy did). The lines are 1/2" OD, and the ID is around 0.40" - I suppose it's possible the OEM part uses bigger tubing. (Have you actually had your hands on one, DMM?) I chopped the part into pieces to see what could fit. No joy there. However, using bits of the chopped up Dorman part + the TPiS adapter I've already got I definitely think my idea would work - if the engine wasn't already in the car and the header wasn't in the way of seeing what I was doing. If I had come up with this brilliant plan a year ago, while the engine was on a stand in my garage, I think I could've made this idea come to fruition.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

If I ever get my car going again I plan on using "http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-cooler-sensor-adapters/low-profile-oil-cooler-adapter-for-ls-series-engine-p-68.html?osCsid=8c4bf747b14b19fa0a2326f8bfe77449" this to add an oil cooler, just need about 10feet or so of -8AN hose and the cooler itself, which the one you looking at wount work due to header clearance issues. I figured a DIY kit would be about $300.

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

Nice. I may do this before the summer.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

If you leave off the quotation marks it will actually make a link - http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...gine-p-68.html. Tadaaaa!!!

With the Kooks headers you've got, you'll find that there's not much room to run the lines from that sort of adapter. I tried it with the TPIS adapter (a bit thicker than the Improved Racing one, but the ports seem to be oriented essentially the same) and wasn't satisfied with the clearance I would be able to get between the very hot Kooks header primaries and the lines coming off the adapter. Some idea of the challenges here and here.

I would recommend -10AN hose.

By the time you buy the adapter, hose, hose ends (the angled ones are expensive) and a good cooler I think you'll be over your $300 mark. And if you add in a thermostat (which is probably prudent on a street car) you'll really be over the $300 mark.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I was counting the adapter at 130, 50 bucks worth of hose, 2 fittings for the cooler at @$10 each, and 100 for a generic mount yourself oil cooler. Like I said ball park. And what the hell would I add an oil temp sensor for when my car already has one. TO me if it has a cooler then its cooling the oil somewhat.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Thermostat is to prevent the flow of oil through the cooler until the oil in the engine is hot enough to need additional cooling. This is a desirable for daily drivers to get oil up to temp 180-210. Another option used is to block air to the fins during daily drives making the cooler less effective.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

You'll need 4 fittings, and as I said before, the various angled fittings (which is what you're going to need) are expensive - 2-3x as much as the straight fittings. As for the cooler, make sure you get a stacked plate style.

Who the hell said anything about adding an oil temp sensor? Your car already has one, why would I tell you to add another?

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

My eyes are deceiving me.

Yes a thermostat would be nice, but dont know that I would have to run one. It only takes a few minutes of driving to get oil temps up, and if I am easy on it until then I am ok with it. As far as fitting, the curved ones were about $13 where as the straight were maybe $5-8 at local speed shop when I added the remote recirculating vented catch can to my 9". So yes, angle fittings are more, so instead of $20 lets say @ $50 for fittings, and yes you would need 4, my oversight.

As far as thermostat, that adapter barely clears headers, and this

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...ine-p-209.html

would likely cause clearance issues, but if you wanted a thermostat, how would one be added other than this

http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-co...tat-p-212.html

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

The point of the thermostat is that without one oil will always flow through the cooler and in street driving may not even heat up to proper operating temps.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I am well aware of the purpose of a thermostat. I have seen cars with out them that run just fine, such as my Tahoe with an oil cooler I added and no thermostat.

Considering a thermostat, and the higher fitting prices, as well as higher hose prices, It could really cost more like 5-600 to add an oil cooler.

As far as -8AN vs-10AN, it is a matter of personal preference. The smaller hose will help keep oil pressyure from taking a bigger drop, but if heavy track duty the flow may be necessary. I dont track, and prefer less drop in pressure so suggest the -8AN, which is still 5/8 ID

Fuzzy, have we sufficiently screwed up any plans or thoughts to use a V2 coler yet?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Oh, yeah. I saw the V2 cooler as a bolt-on option that would provide a little extra cooling at a fraction of the cost and hassle of designing a full-sized system.

Presently, I plan to watch my oil temps as I continue to add power and make provisions to add a cooler as applicable.

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

That's how you would do it. Mocal, Earl's and probably others make external thermostats as well, and it definitely adds to the cost (both the t-stat itself + 4 more fittings to buy).

There are some OEM oil coolers that don't have thermostats, including some of the recent Z06s and/or ZR1s (before they went to a oil-to-water cooler). Most of the OEM applications, though, are either oil-to-water (which actually heats up the oil initially, since coolant gets up to temp much faster) or have a thermostat if they're oil-to-air.

Actually, smaller hose causes more of a pressure drop, which is why I recommended 10AN. For a given length of hose, there will be 70-90% more pressure drop through 8AN than through 10AN. And 8AN is 1/2"; 10AN is 5/8". I agree it is personal preference, but I've seen a few examples where guys found a noticeable drop in oil pressure with 8AN and subsequently had to re-plumb their system with 10AN to get pressure back.

With the amount of power you hope to make, and the fact that you want to have a reliable road course machine, I really don't think there's any question that you will need a cooler. Might as well start factoring that $$$ into the budget, too.

Onefast V

iTrader: (3)

That seems counter intuitive. Can you explain why this is?

gangnam style

subscribed (as well as AAIIIC's build up thread in the caddy forum)

my plan is to do trackday/schools when funds permit so no doubt it'll be run a bit harder (and hotter).

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Pressure drop is caused by flow through an impedance. Flow impedance must be overcome by the pump, which flows less and less as impedance increases.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

I would also expect smaller lines to experience less pressure drop just like using thicker weight oil or adding any other blockage in any system raises relative pressure. Flow volume should be greater with the larger lines compared to the smaller lines even if less pressure is seen through the system.