97 3.8 to 98 5.7 swap- 0 volts to fuel sending unit
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97 3.8 to 98 5.7 swap- 0 volts to fuel sending unit
I swapped a 98 SS ls1/t56 into my 97 v6 firebird. I have no voltage going to my fuel sending unit. I had my computer tuned so vats has been turned off. Power is going to the coils, injectors, fuel pump fuse, and fuel pump relay. Its important to mention here (which may be my issue) I have the 97 v6 key and 97 v6 bcm connected to the 98 harness. Will this setup work? If not what should I do now? order a key and bcm for the 98 ls1? The motor turns over (cranks but no start) perfectly fine with no hesitations, lights come on, radio works with a functioning antenna, and trunk release button works fine. Also, when I turn the key to the on position i hear a click in what I believe to be the anti-theft relay (black box with two connectors at that top placed in the center right of the dash).
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I have 12 volts at the fuel pump relay, I also tried to switch the A/C comp relay to see if there was any difference and nothing. Any other ideas? I don't know if this matters... but the yellow wire on the steering column has .4 volts going to it. So I went back to the fuse block under the hood and it only had .4 as well.
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@the merv- I am trying to get the fuel pump to come on so the vehicle will run. The starter engages the motor turns but no fuel is getting to the rail. I have no signal at the fuel pump connector and no signal at the fuel sending unit connector behind the back seat.
@i r teh noobz- I checked the two pins that are on the top of the relay as the dust cover was off when I bought the wiring harness from another member. That is what led me to switch the A/C relay with the fuel pump relay and had no change. I will be replacing the relay today. Ill let you know if there is any change.
.... I am still curious whether that 97 v6 key and 97 v6 bcm is causing an issue with the 98 v8 harness... wasn't the 98 key chipped, because the 97 key wasn't, its only metal.
@i r teh noobz- I checked the two pins that are on the top of the relay as the dust cover was off when I bought the wiring harness from another member. That is what led me to switch the A/C relay with the fuel pump relay and had no change. I will be replacing the relay today. Ill let you know if there is any change.
.... I am still curious whether that 97 v6 key and 97 v6 bcm is causing an issue with the 98 v8 harness... wasn't the 98 key chipped, because the 97 key wasn't, its only metal.
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@the merv can you explain why the power isn't running like it should? i mean the wires are there under the fuse block, org, blk/wht, grey, grn/wht.
Also, can you explain how I am suppose to do this? Should I bridge all of these wires or make jumper wires/harness?
Thank you guys for your time and responses!
Also, can you explain how I am suppose to do this? Should I bridge all of these wires or make jumper wires/harness?
Thank you guys for your time and responses!
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Green/white should be 12v output from the PCM to trigger the relay on pin 86. Pin 85 is a ground for the control side of the relay.
Pin 30 is 12v to power the pump, pin 87 is output to the pump.
Put a test light in line with pins 85 and 86, have a friend cycle the key, and the light should come on for 2 seconds.
Jump pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump turns on.
Pin 30 is 12v to power the pump, pin 87 is output to the pump.
Put a test light in line with pins 85 and 86, have a friend cycle the key, and the light should come on for 2 seconds.
Jump pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump turns on.
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I found out what it was... there was a ground wire broken from the pin on C101... I grounded that and got signal. My battery was at 11.1 so I disconnected it for a little while, in a couple hours im going to try and get back out there... Ill keep you posted. Thanks again.
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Green/white should be 12v output from the PCM to trigger the relay on pin 86. Pin 85 is a ground for the control side of the relay.
Pin 30 is 12v to power the pump, pin 87 is output to the pump.
Put a test light in line with pins 85 and 86, have a friend cycle the key, and the light should come on for 2 seconds.
Jump pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump turns on.
Pin 30 is 12v to power the pump, pin 87 is output to the pump.
Put a test light in line with pins 85 and 86, have a friend cycle the key, and the light should come on for 2 seconds.
Jump pins 30 and 87 and see if the pump turns on.
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So after doing what you said, I turned the key on and the fuel pump is priming when the ignition is turned on. So do I need to solder a jumper wire for permanent use? Or is there another way to make this setup work?