ToxicWS6

so i went to the track last night (circle track) and long story shortni usually use 3rd gear all the way around the track and do well in it, well i was watching my rpms and now that my new engine has arp rod bolts and good valve train i can go to 6400rpms (maybe moore just set rev limit to that to be safe) so i tryed 2nd gear instead of 3rd all was good till the last lap, i ended up hitting rev limiter right across the finish line half a sec before i would let out to come to the turn (averaged maybe 5800-6k rpms whole time) the car slowed suddenly and quickly for a sec then resumed normal decell, in doing so i smoked bad out the back the rest of the way around till the pits it cleared up (blaming pcv system as its done this before after laps but never anywere else)and also when it did that i looked down and i was at about 240 ish temp so i pulled it in and let it idle and cool down, in doing so i usually idle at about 30-40psi oil pressure, i was only at about 15-20psi at idle and for the rest of the drive home, car runs fine today and seems to be no problem but when its full operating temp and its heat of the day (100 degrees) i have maybe 10psi give or take lower oil pressure, anything above 1300 rpms its at 40psi but what im wondering is could i have damaged anything or can u "overheat" oil and if so will it loose its thickness/viscosity?

ToxicWS6

nvm...i wiped the motor out on the way home from work..

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Yeah, i was going to say, that thing sounds toasted.

Figure out what it was? Anything in the oil?

ToxicWS6

glittery oil, tore top end down so far nothing, feel its a spun rod or main bearing

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Id put my money on the main bearings...


Sorry to hear that bro! Guess it was time for a rebuild anyway... right?

ToxicWS6

lol the motor had 1800 miles on it, and of course i bought the short block preassembled from some one else so the part i didnt do or check/redo fails... kinda kickin my self for that, was a full forged arp studded low CR engine, i literally got my turbo kit shipped the day the engine went after waiting a month, and yes the engine was mail order tuned, kinda a kick in the ***** there, ima throw a $500 5.3l in it with my heads cam and etc and what ever else thats salvageable and run that till i can do a rebuild on this or find something else. the engine was a 347 ls1 9:1 CR, blower cam, 243 heads, ls7 lifters, trunnion upgraded rocker arms, forged dished weisco pistons, RPM 6.1 forged H beams, arp bolts or studs were ever i could, spent the last 8-10 months putting it all together : \ guess i get to see what E85 on a shortblock 5.3l does

ds98formula

iTrader: (3)

Man that sucks

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Damn, that sucks! Didn't realize it was a new block, that blows. Keep us updated tho, id love to see what the internals look like

ToxicWS6

yeah never got to see the 16psi it was suppose to, ill get some pics up of what i find, hopefully have it pulled this weekend

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Any updates on this?

ToxicWS6

yeah, sorry about, ill try to add pics when i get on my comp, but the guy i got the short block from didnt put the correct rod caps on the correct rods, the caps were just mixed up and then i dont think they were torqued correctly cause 3 bolts out of the 16 were a bit looser then the rest, a few were signifigantly tighter then the rest, scored crank and rods and heated up one cap so much it blued, these were after market H beams too

ToxicWS6

have a 5.3 shirt block im throwin all my top end stuff on now and and putting this off tot he side till i figure out what i got to do with it

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

You are kidding me right... And is he taking responsibility?

garygnu

I wouldn't do any circle track with out a baffled pan that is ment for cornering.you mite have been putting a lot of in into the oil system with all the oil splashing to 1 side of the pan.plus the oil was probably getting whipped by the crank and rod splashing throught it.

ToxicWS6

craigslist ad so no : / i drove the car the engine was in and watched him pull it out next day so assumed it was fine but, and wouldnt the windage tray stop rods and crank from hittin oil, and i thought about getting a baffled oil pan tray, or putting baffles on mine, what about the "triangle" looking baffle things in the pan? not enough?

dailydriver

Not just this^^^, but I also would not do anything pulling those STEADY/CONSTANT high g's without using at least a good 3 quart Accusump, especially on our LSxes, or ideally, (but VERY, VERY, VERY co$tly) a decent dry sump system.

Which track is this, what degree on the banking, and just how sticky are the tires you are using???

ToxicWS6

ill have to look into this then cause i plan on doing this again next summer also if not with this car then a designated ls powered car so, ill look into the accusump then and a baffled tray

right now its a small local circle track, some lean in the turns but idk degrees, Langly speed way if yall care to look it up

stock street tires atm 275/40R17s up front, nitto 555s and 315/35r17s in rear, plan on getting a set of 295/35r17 hoosier A6s next year though so

dailydriver

Those Hoosiers gumballs have MORE THAN TWICE the 'stick' of the street Nittos, so your problems would ONLY be greater with them and no other oiling helpers.
BTW; the R6es will last MUCH longer than the A6es will, but do take longer to come "up to operational temps".

ToxicWS6

yeah there one lap races with maybe max of 7 races with 10-15min breaks in between so i want the A6es for quick warm lol