jcollege

iTrader: (2)

I know a lot of you guys that have put on headers have used the ARP headers studs. Can anyone point me to what they used.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

Just reuse the stock bolts. I've done headers on a few LSx cars and have always reused the stock ones with no issues. Also get some new gm gaskets, don't use the stuff that comes with the headers.

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

Ive got new GM MLS gaskets on the way...figured i would replace the bolts at the same time.

Blown_Red_97z

iTrader: (3)

You really don't need to. I will say I once used stage 8 locking bolts which still backed out. But since then I've just used stock and its good to go

punishmentcycle

iTrader: (6)

Agreed.. Stock gaskets and bolts is the way to go

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

I think the ones I used are ARP 434-1301
Although looking back, i'm sure you can get away with stock bolts and loctite, assuming none of yours break in there and need to be bolthead-welded out.

DMM

Header studs are overkill, MLS gaskets seal very well and only need 18-20 ft lbs of torque. No lock-tite is needed, heat+dissimilar metals will keep them in place and is what causes the bolts to break in the first place. I have always used aluminum anti-seize on the bolt threads and never had an issue.

One last thing...to make it easy, trim the MLS gaskets at both ends, at the bottom of the first and last bolt hole using snips, so they will slide down onto the bolts. I have always started the first and last bolts (at opposite ends of the head) so the header is hanging there by two bolts, then the gasket with the trimmed bolt holes will slide down over the two bolts at either end that are holding the header. Makes things SOOOO much easier than trying to start the bolts while holding the header and gasket in place.

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

Header studs make install way way easier but thats about the extent of the benefits. I also had bad luck with stock mls gaskets and wound up replacing them with Fel Pros which were the only ones that would seal.

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

DO NOT DO THIS!!! ^ You can use stock bolts but buy new ones! Just because he has had good luck does not mean you will, and breaking a header bolt deep in the head requires the head to be removed to be repaired. Dealing with broken bolts is a PITA so for a couple bucks why risk it?! I have done headers on several lsx cars as well and all but 1 had a bolt break.

Header studs do make life easier. They are over kill but when installed correctly they will not back out and are much much stronger.

Good luck!

jcollege

iTrader: (2)

Cool thanks for the input guys!

serik21

I had my headers on and off my car 3-4 times on stock bolts. Knock on wood no need to go with after market bolts

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

Truck manifolds tend to break stock bolts after 100k or so. Not sure if it's from expansion or corrosion. I replace them with ARP stainless bolts, they are much cheaper than the studs.

3/8" header flange bolts are part number 771-1002
1/2" header flange bolts are part number 771-1003

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

This ^^

It does make installation easier as you can hang the gasket then hand the header.
I used 12pt. - 10mm.

ARP calls not to use any anti-seize or lock 242 or red, you hand thread (tighten) the stud dry. Used stock gaskets.
Then two rounds of TQ.
First pass (start in Middle two, then hop to each side going outwards) - 132 Inch/pounds.

Final Pass (same process) - 216 inch lbs. (I believe its officially 18lbs)

incubusjunkie614

iTrader: (1)

I remember the torque on my header studs being like 8-10-12 foot pounds (memory may be slightly off), so on par with Vmapper. I dont remember where I found this info, but they had me torque them in 2-3 stages cold, then when the motor was hot, and then once it was cold again. I have had zero issues in 10k miles since then. i put a wrench on them occasionally just to check, and no problems

JDB

iTrader: (2)

I used Stage 8 locking bolts. I found my pass rear bolt head snapped off. Thankfully it came out cleaning with vice grips. So, had to buy something and I like using new hardware. For as many motor mount failures there have been, use new hardware.

And agree with GM gaskets, and cutting the ends open to just slide it down on the outer bolts....so much easier than trying to align layers and getting bolts started in a tight area.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

I like the studs simply for the ease of installation. You might find if you put all 6 studs in that it's hard to get the manifold/header on. I generally install the rear ones that are harder to get to, and then the front one. After putting the header on I'll thread in the other studs.

An added benefit is they don't actually get tightened in the block like a bolt, so they never get stuck and risk getting broken off like a stock bolt.

The downfall is the price. I keep them here though, and will help you guys on price all I can. I can generally beat any prices you can find online, just hit me up and I'll do what I can.

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I use the ARP studs on both my cars.

However, after losing a few 12 points (they ain't cheap to replace) I started using these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-Exhaust-Lock-Nut-Copper-Plated-Steel-12mmHex-/400178033051?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2c78319b&vxp=mtr
Much better!

They are 12 mm however.