LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Looking for assistance on building a nice little beast

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Old 08-05-2013, 01:04 AM
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Default Looking for assistance on building a nice little beast

My LT1 is being pulled out of my 97 Z28 M6. She's completely stock except Edelbrock Shorties, Flowmaster muffler, and cat delete. I'm wanting to get around 350-400HP. I already bought a CC306 Cam from a friend. I'm swapping the headers out for LTs, exhaust is being changed (not sure on what I wanna go with), and I already have a K&N CAI ready for installation. What else should I get?

Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
Old 08-05-2013, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bow Tie Power
My LT1 is being pulled out of my 97 Z28 M6. She's completely stock except Edelbrock Shorties, Flowmaster muffler, and cat delete. I'm wanting to get around 350-400HP. I already bought a CC306 Cam from a friend. I'm swapping the headers out for LTs, exhaust is being changed (not sure on what I wanna go with), and I already have a K&N CAI ready for installation. What else should I get?

Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
With that cam and supporting valve train modds/ boltons you should easily be at your power goal.

However If I already had my motor out and was wanting to build it.

355 c.i
Eagle forged rotating assembly
Advanced induction 200cc head/cam package
Full bolt-ons
Spin her to 7k and be happy.
Old 08-05-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by HarleyZ28
With that cam and supporting valve train modds/ boltons you should easily be at your power goal.

However If I already had my motor out and was wanting to build it.

355 c.i
Eagle forged rotating assembly
Advanced induction 200cc head/cam package
Full bolt-ons
Spin her to 7k and be happy.
I second all of this (maybe because that's what I did? )

The only difference I would make is using a stock crank instead of a Eagle Forged. If you're going to buy a forged crank go 383, if not go ahead and stay with the stock crank as it can easily hold this power.

Also, we need to know the budget of this build to tell you what you can get (this all adds up veryyy quickly)!
Old 08-05-2013, 09:12 AM
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If you are going to go into the motor internally, the price gets out of control rather quickly. Also now you have to find a competent machine shop to work on your motor.

If you have a good machine shop then the price difference between a 355, 383, 396 rotating assembly are basically none. The bigger the engine the more heads you are going to need and that adds up fast.

Stock or stock rebuild crank and rods with a 355 is going to be your cheapest option. Don't think that stock rods and crank are junk.
Old 08-07-2013, 01:38 PM
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Wow. If it's that easy to get that much, then I think I'm going to increase my goal to around 500HP.
Old 08-07-2013, 01:44 PM
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To go from 400whp to 500whp you need to double your budget, at the least. Have you ever been in a 400whp car? How much cash are you working with?
Old 08-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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This is going to be a gradual build-up. I'm going to spend a little here and a little there. At the moment, I don't really care how much I have to spend.
Old 08-07-2013, 02:03 PM
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Take a look at quik95lt1. He's been there-done that and has gotten tremendous results.
Old 08-07-2013, 03:02 PM
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porting/flowing stock heads or buying a new set of LE1/LE2 heads should do the trick.
Old 08-07-2013, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by YAC-WS6
porting/flowing stock heads or buying a new set of LE1/LE2 heads should do the trick.
No.
Old 08-07-2013, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
No.
I think he only read the beginning posts and was still responding to a 400rwhp goal .

500 to the wheels is a lofty goal, it will need a lot of planning and a lot of money.
Old 08-09-2013, 08:17 AM
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You can be around 350(+/-) with just the mods you listed. Add LE1/LE2 heads and 1.6rr's and you should be right around 400rwhp with a good tune



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