Looking for assistance on building a nice little beast
#1
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Looking for assistance on building a nice little beast
My LT1 is being pulled out of my 97 Z28 M6. She's completely stock except Edelbrock Shorties, Flowmaster muffler, and cat delete. I'm wanting to get around 350-400HP. I already bought a CC306 Cam from a friend. I'm swapping the headers out for LTs, exhaust is being changed (not sure on what I wanna go with), and I already have a K&N CAI ready for installation. What else should I get?
Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
#2
My LT1 is being pulled out of my 97 Z28 M6. She's completely stock except Edelbrock Shorties, Flowmaster muffler, and cat delete. I'm wanting to get around 350-400HP. I already bought a CC306 Cam from a friend. I'm swapping the headers out for LTs, exhaust is being changed (not sure on what I wanna go with), and I already have a K&N CAI ready for installation. What else should I get?
Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
Keep in mind, I do not want to use any forced induction or spray. Still debating on a 383 or not.
However If I already had my motor out and was wanting to build it.
355 c.i
Eagle forged rotating assembly
Advanced induction 200cc head/cam package
Full bolt-ons
Spin her to 7k and be happy.
#3
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With that cam and supporting valve train modds/ boltons you should easily be at your power goal.
However If I already had my motor out and was wanting to build it.
355 c.i
Eagle forged rotating assembly
Advanced induction 200cc head/cam package
Full bolt-ons
Spin her to 7k and be happy.
However If I already had my motor out and was wanting to build it.
355 c.i
Eagle forged rotating assembly
Advanced induction 200cc head/cam package
Full bolt-ons
Spin her to 7k and be happy.
The only difference I would make is using a stock crank instead of a Eagle Forged. If you're going to buy a forged crank go 383, if not go ahead and stay with the stock crank as it can easily hold this power.
Also, we need to know the budget of this build to tell you what you can get (this all adds up veryyy quickly)!
#4
If you are going to go into the motor internally, the price gets out of control rather quickly. Also now you have to find a competent machine shop to work on your motor.
If you have a good machine shop then the price difference between a 355, 383, 396 rotating assembly are basically none. The bigger the engine the more heads you are going to need and that adds up fast.
Stock or stock rebuild crank and rods with a 355 is going to be your cheapest option. Don't think that stock rods and crank are junk.
If you have a good machine shop then the price difference between a 355, 383, 396 rotating assembly are basically none. The bigger the engine the more heads you are going to need and that adds up fast.
Stock or stock rebuild crank and rods with a 355 is going to be your cheapest option. Don't think that stock rods and crank are junk.
#7
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This is going to be a gradual build-up. I'm going to spend a little here and a little there. At the moment, I don't really care how much I have to spend.
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