Aluminum flywheel street-ability
08-19-2013, 02:15 PM
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aluminum flywheel street-ability Hey,
I need a new full clutch assembly for my car. I was thinking to replace it with a spec alum fly and clutch (or something similar). How is the street-ability on these compared to say an all iron ls7 clutch setup?
I am running a M6 transmission and I have not decided on a rear gear yet but will be either 390 or 410. The car is about 3200lbs without me and is driven on the street 80% and road course 20% of the time. No drag racing / launches.
The motor build is a 5.3 with a cam that has a lower powerband to keep the low end torque instead of high rpm hp.
Thanks!
I need a new full clutch assembly for my car. I was thinking to replace it with a spec alum fly and clutch (or something similar). How is the street-ability on these compared to say an all iron ls7 clutch setup?
I am running a M6 transmission and I have not decided on a rear gear yet but will be either 390 or 410. The car is about 3200lbs without me and is driven on the street 80% and road course 20% of the time. No drag racing / launches.
The motor build is a 5.3 with a cam that has a lower powerband to keep the low end torque instead of high rpm hp.
Thanks!
08-19-2013, 04:37 PM
#2
people who autox like the lighter ones for quicker rev ups....but you may find on street driving you need a few more RPM's to engage the clutch to get going.
there are always trade off's. If you can find someone who has a car like yours with a lightweight FW try it out and see how you feel.
there are always trade off's. If you can find someone who has a car like yours with a lightweight FW try it out and see how you feel.
08-20-2013, 09:06 AM
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's why I am thinking I will be good with one... especially if I go with a taller rear gear. Should make things off the line much easier.
For $ conscious would it be good to stick with the ls7 clutch + alum fly?
For $ conscious would it be good to stick with the ls7 clutch + alum fly?
08-20-2013, 09:33 AM
#6
Lots of folks use our Aluminum flywheel on the street. It all comes down to what you are looking for. And, gear, torque output, etc...will affect the way the car leaves (whether you have an Aluminum flywheel or not). It sounds like you've already made you mind up...and I think you will be pleased. I would suggest our SC09 series clutch and SC75A flywheel. Let me know what you planned torque output will be and I will be happy to make a more specific recommendation. Any of the SC09 kits will offer better performance than the stock LS7 unit. Our kits also eliminate the stock SAC-type pressure-plate which has its own limitations when driven aggressively.
08-20-2013, 09:55 AM
#7
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will not be running a ton of power. Plans are looking to be in the 400whp/400tq region with the focus of more power under the curve vs peak power.
Weekend fun street car / track day road race car. No drag launches. Looking at 390 or 410 rear.
Weekend fun street car / track day road race car. No drag launches. Looking at 390 or 410 rear.
Trending Topics
08-20-2013, 12:04 PM
#8
Honestly, even our Stage 1 would cover those numbers. If course, it's all relative to what you want. I have used our Stage 2+ on my last 4 cars and love it. It has greater capacity, higher heat resistance, and will be daily drivable to boot. It's all up to you though. Give me a shout and we can talk specifics as needed! Thanks!
08-20-2013, 01:22 PM
#10
It is wise of you to look at the big picture on how gearing and overall weight of the car play a factor is driveability. Our Level 1 package with our 18lb flywheel would get you taken care of for $679.99, that kit includes a new release bearing and pilot bearing as well. I've personally seen some aluminum flywheels have issues with the steel insert warping from heat, so be careful if you plan to track the car, that is why we use lightened Billet steel. Don't hesitate if you have any other questions regarding a Monster, Chris 817-750-2000
08-20-2013, 02:11 PM
#11
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is always wise to take the whole picture into account when deciding on these factors. I have over-built a motor before and I absolutely HATED it. I spent way more money on all these fancy "go-fast" parts and I ended up with a car that was TERRIBLE on the street and terrible to drive around.
Swapped out a bunch of parts at a loss for $, ended up with an engine that ON PAPER was going to be way worse than what I had, and it was MUCH better! Way happier in the long run and was much better for the 99% of the time I used it in the powerband it was designed for.
Sure... that flat out high rpm didnt scream as hard... but the rest of the time it was way better. Good trade-off IMO and that is why I am playing it smart this time around.
I was looking at your monster setup on-line actually and I do like the billet idea. However, can your lightened fly be resurfaced? How many times? (or should I say, how much material is safe to be able to take off before you would recommend a replacement).
I will be needing to replace the slave/master cylinder as well with better units (C5 corvette driveline).
Swapped out a bunch of parts at a loss for $, ended up with an engine that ON PAPER was going to be way worse than what I had, and it was MUCH better! Way happier in the long run and was much better for the 99% of the time I used it in the powerband it was designed for.
Sure... that flat out high rpm didnt scream as hard... but the rest of the time it was way better. Good trade-off IMO and that is why I am playing it smart this time around.
I was looking at your monster setup on-line actually and I do like the billet idea. However, can your lightened fly be resurfaced? How many times? (or should I say, how much material is safe to be able to take off before you would recommend a replacement).
I will be needing to replace the slave/master cylinder as well with better units (C5 corvette driveline).
08-21-2013, 03:27 PM
#14
Before I got my lightweight fly wheel a lot of people were harping on the old wive's tale that a light weight flywheel is harder to take off from a stop, and drives weird. Lol, I got one based on the suggestion of people that actually were using a light weight fly wheel and my car drives like stock.
08-21-2013, 03:29 PM
#15
It is always wise to take the whole picture into account when deciding on these factors. I have over-built a motor before and I absolutely HATED it. I spent way more money on all these fancy "go-fast" parts and I ended up with a car that was TERRIBLE on the street and terrible to drive around.
Swapped out a bunch of parts at a loss for $, ended up with an engine that ON PAPER was going to be way worse than what I had, and it was MUCH better! Way happier in the long run and was much better for the 99% of the time I used it in the powerband it was designed for.
Sure... that flat out high rpm didnt scream as hard... but the rest of the time it was way better. Good trade-off IMO and that is why I am playing it smart this time around.
I was looking at your monster setup on-line actually and I do like the billet idea. However, can your lightened fly be resurfaced? How many times? (or should I say, how much material is safe to be able to take off before you would recommend a replacement).
I will be needing to replace the slave/master cylinder as well with better units (C5 corvette driveline).
Swapped out a bunch of parts at a loss for $, ended up with an engine that ON PAPER was going to be way worse than what I had, and it was MUCH better! Way happier in the long run and was much better for the 99% of the time I used it in the powerband it was designed for.
Sure... that flat out high rpm didnt scream as hard... but the rest of the time it was way better. Good trade-off IMO and that is why I am playing it smart this time around.
I was looking at your monster setup on-line actually and I do like the billet idea. However, can your lightened fly be resurfaced? How many times? (or should I say, how much material is safe to be able to take off before you would recommend a replacement).
I will be needing to replace the slave/master cylinder as well with better units (C5 corvette driveline).
08-21-2013, 03:49 PM
#16
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For sure the aluminum will be harder from a stop if you have low rear gears, heavy car, and a grabby clutch... that is why I am changing the rears to a (hopefully) 4.10 setup and keeping the car as light as possible. I have driven cars with light flywheels and you do have to slip it a bit more but once you get starting your golden from there on.
Where is the weight shaved on the 18lb unit? Closer in the middle or on the edges?
That video shows how an engine is supposed to rev. None of this .. pedal down..engine thinks...starts to rev...yup still revving...mmm almost there...ok there it is.
I just want to make sure everything stays smooth through the rpm. I am getting a nice ati balancer to make sure the torsion in the crank is taken care of (steel/steel unit due to the fact I may go with the light fly). This ensures I have enough damping in the crank for harmonics considering the flywheel mass at stock weight does more for vibration than a lightened version.
Where is the weight shaved on the 18lb unit? Closer in the middle or on the edges?
That video shows how an engine is supposed to rev. None of this .. pedal down..engine thinks...starts to rev...yup still revving...mmm almost there...ok there it is.
I just want to make sure everything stays smooth through the rpm. I am getting a nice ati balancer to make sure the torsion in the crank is taken care of (steel/steel unit due to the fact I may go with the light fly). This ensures I have enough damping in the crank for harmonics considering the flywheel mass at stock weight does more for vibration than a lightened version.
08-21-2013, 06:51 PM
#18
For sure the aluminum will be harder from a stop if you have low rear gears, heavy car, and a grabby clutch... that is why I am changing the rears to a (hopefully) 4.10 setup and keeping the car as light as possible. I have driven cars with light flywheels and you do have to slip it a bit more but once you get starting your golden from there on.
Where is the weight shaved on the 18lb unit? Closer in the middle or on the edges?
That video shows how an engine is supposed to rev. None of this .. pedal down..engine thinks...starts to rev...yup still revving...mmm almost there...ok there it is.
I just want to make sure everything stays smooth through the rpm. I am getting a nice ati balancer to make sure the torsion in the crank is taken care of (steel/steel unit due to the fact I may go with the light fly). This ensures I have enough damping in the crank for harmonics considering the flywheel mass at stock weight does more for vibration than a lightened version.
Where is the weight shaved on the 18lb unit? Closer in the middle or on the edges?
That video shows how an engine is supposed to rev. None of this .. pedal down..engine thinks...starts to rev...yup still revving...mmm almost there...ok there it is.
I just want to make sure everything stays smooth through the rpm. I am getting a nice ati balancer to make sure the torsion in the crank is taken care of (steel/steel unit due to the fact I may go with the light fly). This ensures I have enough damping in the crank for harmonics considering the flywheel mass at stock weight does more for vibration than a lightened version.
08-21-2013, 09:51 PM
#19
10 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Op mentioned he's not gonna turn much rpm. That would mean he may not reach the speeds needed to get threw the 1/4. From my experience 4.10 is just a bit too much. 3.90 or 3.73 work better. Idk why every one wants to throw 4.10 in these cars. Look up a gear chart and fear it for speed you plan to attain.
08-21-2013, 10:41 PM
#20
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 71
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not a drag guy, so going through the traps is of no concern for me. I'm a twisties / street car guy. I'm coming from a 5 speed where I was running 25-2600rpm cruising on the highway. Adding a 6th overdrive and spinning under 2k is unheard of unless I had stock rear gears which were slugs.
My cam / intake / engine will start to drop off past 6500. Not looking to go above 7k.
I figured all the torque multiplication I can get the better. I am going to be running close to 390-400hp/tq n/a.
Lightest flywheel does sound good I just don't want to put $ into diminishing returns. There is a point where more $ is being spent but no extra ++ is being given other than bling.
I'm not running crazy power levels and I don't launch so I just want a setup that will be most efficient for me with my car. 90% of the time its driven on the street, 10% on the road course. And because of that, I'm typically a grandpa on the street. I let all my frustration out on the 10%.
With that all said... I have overgeared before and rendered 1st useless which sucked off the line. Wheelspin gets you nowhere so I need to find that median at 400hp/tq without running 315's lol
My cam / intake / engine will start to drop off past 6500. Not looking to go above 7k.
I figured all the torque multiplication I can get the better. I am going to be running close to 390-400hp/tq n/a.
Lightest flywheel does sound good I just don't want to put $ into diminishing returns. There is a point where more $ is being spent but no extra ++ is being given other than bling.
I'm not running crazy power levels and I don't launch so I just want a setup that will be most efficient for me with my car. 90% of the time its driven on the street, 10% on the road course. And because of that, I'm typically a grandpa on the street. I let all my frustration out on the 10%.
With that all said... I have overgeared before and rendered 1st useless which sucked off the line. Wheelspin gets you nowhere so I need to find that median at 400hp/tq without running 315's lol