TableLeg

I have seen these discussed and found that some of the information given is incorrect so as I am in the process of modifying my intake myself I thought I would show exactly what is what here.

For my intake I do not need the rear takeoffs at all so I elected to remove and blank the hole.

As can be seen (and contrary to some of the information given out) the rear plug cannot be simply twisted out. As can be seen from my photo (No.1) the plug itself has a locating peg and the intake (No.3) has a matching locating slot. It is this that prevents it being twisted out.

Photo No.1 also shows the 3x clips that retain the plug into the intake.

In order to remove the plug you must first cut of the pipe connections at the rear flush with the outer body. Once this is done you then have access to the inside of the plug as can be seen on photo No.2.

In order to release the clips put a flat blade screwdriver into the slot down the side of the clip as shown by the red line and lever the clip away from the outer edge of the intake. If you look closely you can see this clip is now bent away more than the others. You need to do this for all 3 clips in order to then remove the plug which will then just pull out easily.

The hole can then be plugged with a 51mm core plug and bonded in.

I would recommend before doing this to give both the intake surface and the core plug a slight ruffing up with sandpaper or the like and ensure that any debris has been removed from the intake prior to fitting.

The core plug could then be painted to blend in.

I hope this helps others.

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

Could a pipe of the correct diameter be pushed in from the throttle body side to compress the three clips?

TableLeg

Unfortunately not as the supporting ribs inside the intake run down the centre and prevent this.

I tried using a long screwdriver to unclip each clip at a time but it was near on impossible.

In the end the way I detailed above above was a piece of cake.

TableLeg

View of the intake looking towards the rear plug through the throttle body face (photo No.4) shows the centre ribs.

Photo No.5 shows the plug itself and the extent needed to be removed (cut off).

usdmholden

I actually did this same thing a couple months ago. I didn't realize people were saying it could be twisted out (I never asked though).

What are you planning to bond it with? The only adhesives which I've used to bond to Nylon are pretty expensive.

TableLeg

I planned to use something like this.
http://www.supergluecorp.com/pacer-i...plastic-fusion

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

I've had good luck with JB Weld.

TableLeg

I've also heard JB weld is good, as is Gorilla glue.

usdmholden

JB Weld won't stick to Nylon very well. It will sort of stick, but will come off easily. Don't know anything about Gorilla glue. If Gorilla Glue is a cyanoacrilate, it will stick, but not hold up well long term under heat and humidity.

I bought some cheap Loctite two part acrylic plastic adhesive from Lowes but I have not tried it yet. It was like $6. The datasheet on Henkels website said it will bond Nylon to about 1500 pi shear strength, which is probably good enough.

The expensive stuff which works great is Reltek Bondit45 but it's like $80 for a small tube. It will bond nearly all hard to bond materials though. I don't want to buy that stuff unless I have to.

19wagon63

Thanks for the info!

TableLeg

Job now finished.

As you can see I keyed the surface of the 51mm core plug and also the intake recess (be careful not to let any dust enter here when keying surface).

I then mixed the Epoxy.

Covered the recess bottom lip and sides and pressed in the core plug (which is a push fit by hand), wiped off the excess and then left it to set overnight.

All in all simple and effective.

usdmholden

Nice. Did you use the JB Weld?