fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

With help from Martin Smallwood of Tick Performance I've narrowed my list to these items so far.

Swapping out my LS1 for an L33 (lm7 if necessary) and looking to run the on3 performance non ac kit. Martin advised me to look into the pt7675 turbo for ideal spool and efficiency, and a custom spec'd cam to match. It's an M6 car, and he recommends going to a 3.42 rear gear. For the fuel system I'm thinking the mighty mouse dual in tank pump set up should be enough for mid 700's at the wheels? Should new lines or rails/regulator be a consideration?

I'm hoping to get away with a gravity drain for the turbo with the on3 kit as there was someone else on here who got it to work. If not what do I need for a scavenge pump to be safe? What about cooling, will the stock radiator/fans be enough?

What other stuff will I need aside from the turbo kit to get everything running? Boost controller, gauges etc... I'm not very well versed in boost specific stuff yet so I'd greatly appreciate some recommendations for stuff I might need or want along the way. Anything to stay away from would be good to know as well.

Since I'm going from Gen3 to gen 4 I'll need a gen 4 ecu also correct? I just want to figure out well before I buy anything what I'm getting into and where money is going to be best spent.

z28C4maro82z

iTrader: (33)

Going to follow closely

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

Looks like I'll need the LPE converter box for the crank/cam sensor to use my existing ecu. I'm gonna do the cast wheel Pt7675 turbo as well. Hopefully it should fit with the on3 kit haha.

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

If I do need to run a scavenge pump I was told the turbowerx exa is about as good as it gets, but its around $400, any other options?

What about a boost controller, any suggestions?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

L33 is 24x reluctor thru 06 anyway. Look for the black CP sensor
Ron

mrstepheneades

I have stock fuel system besides fic1000cc injectors and twin walbro 340s in the factory bucket. All lines and regulator are stock. On 17 psi pump 93/meth I made 755rwhp on less than 6000rpm pull. Martin was there he will tell ya. Now I'm on 20+ psi and still no fueling issues. Stays good and fat. This is on a stock everything ls1 with a cam and s475 turbo.

I use stock fans as pushers. Switch wires behind connectors they spin opposite. My stock radiator wasn't enough since I switched stock fans to push so I got a cheapo Champion radiator which is only 3/4" thicker than a stock one and it dropped driving temps 40°. My stock radiator may have been stopped up though. Either way temps stay 180s now. No thermostat.

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

That's a lot of power on a stock ls1! Do you plan to beef up the bottom end anytime soon? If I'm interpreting this correctly you reversed the polarity of the wires on the stock fans to make them go from puller to pusher? What was required to go to the thicker radiator, do you have yours mounted vertically?

On another note, what does everyone think of the on3 BOV and wastegate? The kit comes with a 44mm Wastegate and 50mm BOV, are those okay or should I upgrade to something else? What spring comes with the wastegate stock in the kit? I was doing some reading on these parts and I saw there are some QC issues with the wastegates not sealing right and something about a "fire ring" sometimes being missing?

mrstepheneades

I'm building a lm7 now that will be forged and ready for 1000+ HP. Plan on maxing this turbo out on initial tune when I get it finished. I dont plan on doing anything to current engine. Run it till i get other one done is the plan. I cut all supports out and made all custom for the radiator since i had to move up so far. My turbo sets dead center up high. And yes reverse wires reverses polarity which makes them push.

I have jgs 50mm gate and 56mm bov. Just for infos sake.

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

Ok here's a list of stuff I bought so far and a cost break down for anyone interested.

Pt 7675 $1250
Boost gauge $50
Wideband $150
Fuel pressure gauge $150
Water temp gauge $40
Oil pressure gauge $60
Boost controller $50
Aeromotive 340 pump $150
Racetronix harness $72
Aeromotive a1000 fuel regulator $150
Item: Derale Performance 16925 HO RAD Fan Pusher Only (16925)$274
On3 turbo kit $$$$ lol

Some of these parts I sourced used or got a great deal on. Still need some 80lb/hr injectors and a 5.3 to buy and I'm about set!

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

Just giving this an update, the plans changed slightly since the beginning. The car is now getting a used stage 4 FLT 4l80e. It came with a circle D stall that was spec'd for an F1 blown 370 which hit around 4300rpm on the transbrake, so it may be a bit loose. I'm gonna run it and see what happens, if it sucks, Chris at Circle D said the converter I have (245mm unit) is a bit small for the later goals I have power wise and I shuld get a bigger one and it would be spec'd tighter. The trans also came with a B&M cooler with a fan so it should work pretty well for my combo and be reliable.

The Precision turbo was on back order, so I got a Turbonetics 7875 instead. I picked up a set of used 95lb/hr injectors instead of the 80's so I'll have a little more headroom. Planning on running a -8 feed line and using the stock feed for my return. I'm debating running the stock fuel rails from my ls1 and run the regulator before the rail, mod the rail to run the reg after the rails, or just get some billet rails. While I'm on the subject of fuel, I'm thinking I'm gonna ditch the aeromotive fuel pump I bought, and maybe do the new AEM 320 E85 safe pumps. I've read the aeromotives are hit or miss on E85 and I'm not risking all this work on something like that. I'm gonna run two of the 320's if I do those, and wire them both to run all the time. I still havent seen anybody post any data using those yet though, hopefully someone sees this and chimes in.

I picked up a JY 5.3 (LM7) to use to start with. I got a set of pistons and rods from a 2012 LC9 (alu 5.3 with all the dod and vvt stuff) which are the flat top variety. Hopefully, the block I bought will be able to use those pistons, it's got ~80k miles on it from what I'm told so I'm crossing my fingers on this one. Planning on re using my stock 241 heads from my current ls1 in the car with ls9 gaskets, and I'm waiting to hear back from Martin over at Tick Performance with some cam options.

Ideally I want to use the gen 4 rods and pistons to make it essentially a brand new gen4 lm7 and I can set the ring gaps to where ever I want. I've read .025ish range is about right? In the event the block is too worn and the pistons are too small, I'm thinking it would be the best idea to have it bored out, and do a forged 347 set up. That way the turbo should still be efficient and with the iron block the strength of the block will be safe for 1kwhp range.

So far I have almost all of the stuff I need, just missing a few little odds and ends but all the major stuff is here. Now I just need to do some more research on the final things to buy, and wait for spring.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Where do you find the converter box? I'm doing the exact same build and had no idea about having to use this for the ECU yo be compatible..

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

from the research I did, you can get a converter box, but it;s probably easier to just swap reluctor wheels esp since I'm tearing apart the motor. My motor turned out to be an 03 so I may not have to. LS1 is 58X I believe as are all GenIII motors?

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Not really sure, I'll most definately have to look into it. My block (l33) is currently being honed and looked over. There was also a spun rod bearing in the pistons that I bought so he is going to recondition that rod as well. How can I tell which reluctor I have? Never done my own shortblock so this is as new a concept to me as a turbo build. Might as well dive in deep I guess..

BTW, have you ordered your hot/cold side yet?

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I'm running an on3 kit, hotside and coldside. I upgraded to the thicker IC core also.

as for the reluctor He means the crank position sensor. Or maybe its cam position sensor?

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

I'm nearly positive that it refers to the crank, I would just like to know how to figure out if I have the correct one or not. Tried doing an advanced search and can't seem to find anything..

I just ordered all my piping from Columbia River. Probably going to wait until late next fall to start in mine though. I'll want to drive the car once pretty weather comes around.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Crank Position Sensor.
LS1 is 24X
My L33 was also 24X. It is an 06.
Don't know about the LM7.

The 24X reluctor wheel is less than $20, But installation is critical

Ron

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

How do you check your crank Ron? I've got my block at the machinist now, I'm sure I could take it to him to be done. I guess I could just run the numbers on the block once i get it back and see what year it was.

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Back up, hopefully someone can answer my question..

fly boy_1

iTrader: (4)

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...eels-Explained

JustAFooL

iTrader: (45)

Nice find..

So more less, since my factory PCM reads a 24x wheel (98 LS1) I'm assuming that I need to put a 24x crank in my l33. I'm nearly positive it's a 58 after reading this.