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Big ish cam carbed 5.3 timing and jet advice sought.

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Old 01-25-2014, 03:15 PM
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Default Big ish cam carbed 5.3 timing and jet advice sought.

I'm dialing in a little closer to a good state of tune for my mustang but I still need to do some tweaking to get the drivability and power where it needs to be.

Here's my setup
92 fox mustang
3.73 gears (soon to be 3.27)
Th400 2800 stall
2800lbs

Aluminum 5.3
Comp thumpr cam 219-233@.050 109lsa
241heads
Performer rpm intake
Holley 670 street avenger
Mid length headers 2.5" exhaust

So far my changes to the carb have been minor. Mostly in an effort to eliminate a off idle dead spot. Successfully I might add.

I'm running pill #4 in the box
I've changed to a 3.5 power valve and upped the primary jets to 69's from 65

I've done the obligatory idle tweaking and am pulling appx 12-13" at idle out of gear at 1100rpm

It's doing better but the idle is still weak dropping the rpm all the way down into the 600rpm range in gear. My thought is I need more timing and hope to find an out of date enough computer to talk to this box soon. How much baseline timing do y'all think would be a good starting point to strengthen the idle as well as any educated guesses as to a good secondary jet size to start tuning from. (71 currently)
Old 01-25-2014, 04:15 PM
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Why did you put a 3.5" power valve in it?
Old 01-25-2014, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
Why did you put a 3.5" power valve in it?
Because before the last round of tuning it was only pulling 7-8 inches of vacuum idling in neutral

Pulling the trans into gear still sends the vacuum down below 10 a fair bit

Last edited by krochus; 01-25-2014 at 04:44 PM.
Old 01-30-2014, 02:48 PM
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Hi, just FYI holley recommends setting the ideal with the car in gear. Also I had a similar problem with my mustang dropping alot of rpm once I put the car in gear. Turned out the torque convert adverticed (2800rpm stall) foot break 1900rpm-2000rpm 11.5 size was way to tight, and dragging the engine down at low speeds. Just some food for thought.
Old 01-30-2014, 06:02 PM
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I think figured out how to get my car to idle like it needs to with a little fiddling.

What I did was start the timing at 15 degrees. From there it ramps up to 32 from 5-600 rpm then it tapers off to 22 at 1000-1100 and goes up to 30 from there on out.

What this does is it has the car idling in neutral at a fairly low advance (1100rpm) but when I put it into gear (700rpm) it goes back up to a fairly high advance as the rpm drops which tries to kick the RPM back up limiting the drop in rpm by quite a bit to only 300rpm or so
Old 01-30-2014, 06:50 PM
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You should have no problem idling that engine at 750-800 in gear or not. My 234/250 .521/.629 112 idles at 850 in my untouched 6.0. I found the vac trick to not work and I set my idle with a wideband and lower timing. I also changed the ifr's in the carb to allow for the 4 corner idle screws to be out further but thats cuz I was pulling my hair out.

Set your t-slots to show .040" (mine Re actually closer to .020") set your 4 corner screws to 3/4 turns from closed, then set your timing at idle between 18 & 22* then adjust from there. Change one thing at a time, sometimes I had to drastically change it to see exactly how it affected the engine. Soon enough youll have it running good, then fiddle to perfection. Your pv has no effect on idle unless its torn so worry about that later. Get your idle and light throttle figured out then work on wot and then pump shot.
Old 01-30-2014, 06:51 PM
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Double post oops!

Last edited by 89gmcs15; 01-30-2014 at 06:57 PM.
Old 01-30-2014, 06:56 PM
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Also get a map sensor hooked up. Your #4 pill is adding a bunch of timing across the board if your not runnin one.
Old 01-30-2014, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 89gmcs15
Also get a map sensor hooked up. Your #4 pill is adding a bunch of timing across the board if your not runnin one.
I have one. I've got it set to add 10 degrees at only the highest vacuum cruise any less and it zeros out.

I want to point out that my carb only has a front idle circuit.
Old 01-30-2014, 07:09 PM
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Here's that rpm based curve

I've driven the car around some more and if anything it idles a little TOO strong now. I think it could stand to have everything backed off 100 rpm or so
Old 01-30-2014, 07:17 PM
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Performer RPM intake.

Do you have the msd bolted to the intake if not make sure you plug the open hole where the box is supposed to be mounted.
Old 01-30-2014, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by The stunningman
Performer RPM intake.

Do you have the msd bolted to the intake if not make sure you plug the open hole where the box is supposed to be mounted.
Good spot! I seen this too but never thought to mention it the hole!
Old 01-30-2014, 07:24 PM
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The thumper cams are designed for sound and have lousy vacuum. 20 degs of timing helps and about 13.6 -+ Afr.
You might even be better off plugging the power valve and up the primary jets 4 numbers to compensate.
Old 01-30-2014, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 89gmcs15
Good spot! I seen this too but never thought to mention it the hole!
Luckily I saw that mentioned in a post elsewhere or I would have missed it too!
Old 01-30-2014, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Blowerman
The thumper cams are designed for sound and have lousy vacuum. 20 degs of timing helps and about 13.6 -+ Afr. You might even be better off plugging the power valve and up the primary jets 4 numbers to compensate.
It's doing pretty good now with the 3.5 PV and in general is getting to the point of being fairly well mannered. I do want to get a wideband to really zero in on an efficient state of tune.

I agree the vac is low, but OMG this thing has teh ballz! In spite of this my power brakes still feel just like they did with the 2.3 surprisingly.
Old 02-05-2014, 08:56 AM
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Ha i posted up the intake hole disaster to know i saved just one life makes my mission a success!!!!!

Old 02-05-2014, 09:26 AM
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A sincere thank you.



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