mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

Is it feasible for one to replace their own BCM in an LS1 f-body? If so, has anyone done it?
Apparently, mine needs replacing. AFAIK, the only thing not working is the power door locks. Windows, alarm, courtesy lighting, delayed power off, etc. still work fine.
Shop diagnosed the problem and confirmed that it is indeed the BCM, but their cost to replace it is ridiculous at $570.
So, either I replace it myself, or it stays the way it is for the foreseeable future.

pbjones81

i dont exactly know what youre asking, if youre talking about the difficulty of the install, i couldnt tell you because I have never installed one and dont even know where it is located. can you tell ME?

if youre talking about the insane price, i would recommend you look on ebay. i frequently see them on ebay for far less than what GM is quoting you.

mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

I guess my question has several parts.

I know it's located under the dash on the passenger side somewhere behind the glove compartment. My 1st question is, Is there any special initialization or synchronization or programming required that only a dealer can perform? If there is, then the rest of my question is a moot point.

If there are no special procedures required from the dealer, then my 2nd question is, How difficult is the physical removal/replacement of the unit?

As far as price goes, over half of the $570 was for labor, 4 hrs. @ $81.50 / hr.,
plus about $210 for the part, (I can get it for a little over half that on gmpartsdirect), plus 10% of labor added on as some bogus shop charge.

TA TED

I don't think it will be too difficult to replace. It is located behind the glovebox under the passenger dash. Yes the key FOBS do have to be programmed into the BCM to operate it correctly. Also, you will have to ensure that the unit you purchase matches the resistor value in your key to defeat the VATS system. I don't know if GM has different part numbers for BCM's that look for which of the 15 different resistor values or if you would need to get new keys cut with the value BCM that you get. I do believe that you can program the key FOBS into the BCM fairly easy.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

No dig meant against "the shop", but I'm always a little wary of any electronics diagnostics performed by someone else on my vehicles. I was almost convinced to replace some electronics in my dash (non-LS1). I realized that a faulty connector was involved. A little bit of jiggling the wires at the specified connector points led me to repair the problem. This saved me $250.

slow

iTrader: (7)

there are just 2 bcm part numbers, one that has keyless entry, the other that does not

the first time it is powered up, and key inserted, it learn your resistance (vats) to lock your key value to the vehicle.

replacement is not too difficult.

there is somebody on ebay who sells them, with the vats disabled, or can match your resistance value, and 2 keyless entry remotes for a easy way to add keyless entry, but this might be a good way to get a used bcm that will work for you, and your existing keys.

programming the remotes is very very easy. pull radio fuse, turn car on/off 5 times, locks lock/unlock, and you hold the lock and unlock buttons on the remote until the door locks lock and unlock, and the hatch will pop. repeat for each additional remote. (install university has a great detailed writeup on this part)


Ryan.

mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

I know what you're saying, but the symptoms that the system was showing, along with a limited amount of troubleshooting on my part, led me to believe it was the BCM as well. The shop seemed to confirm that.
Problem is power door locks don't work. Problem was caused by me doing some wiring modifications that went awry. No blown fuses. Door lock actuators still are OK. I had done the progressive doorlock mod, which went fine. I also used the freed up channel to make both windows roll down. That went OK. I next tried to add a module to auto-lock the doors when ignition is turned on after 5-second delay, and to auto-unlock once key is turned off. Here is where my luck ran out.

Anyway, there's no way I'm forking over $570 for its replacement anytime soon. I would just live without the power doorlocks. But if I can get the replacement part for $130 or so from gmpartsdirect, and replace it myself, I would. Just hoping someone out there is LS1 land maybe had performed a similar feat and could offer some advice.

mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the input. Looks like I'm going to go try to sniff out the actual part on my car. Once I'm satisfied I can locate and remove the part, I'll order a replacement and go for it.

ZROCWS6

iTrader: (3)

I am having same problem with my door locks the power lock wont work but everything else in the car does. it is bone stock. did you end up replacing the BCM yourself?

mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I ended up replacing it myself. Bought a new one from local GM dealer, then followed the instructions in the owner's manual to re-program my key fobs.
Other than the key fobs, no special installation procedures were necessary.

ZROCWS6

iTrader: (3)

Ok cool. Do you remember about how long it took you?

mbrownin

iTrader: (1)

The actual work involved won't take long (an hour would probably cover it). I spent more time just determining what screws, etc. had to come off to get to it, and how the wiring harness (IIRC there's 2 connectors on the BCM) clips release from the BCM itself. The most difficult aspect of the job will be access to the space needed to remove and re-install it.