nuzee

iTrader: (2)

I was trying to avoid getting a hi stall TC because most of my driving is done in town at non-lockup speeds and my ultimate performance goal of low 12 second ETs seems attainable without a TC.

However, after hearing the Colonel's great numbers, the bang-for-the-buck appeal of the TCI3000 is just too strong. The sponsors have great pricing right now too!

I realize I can get a tenth or more by going with a higher stall than a 3000 but I DO NOT want to compromise my city driving. Besides the TCI3000, I have been looking at the Yank TT2800, ProTorque3000 and the Vig2800 as other choices.

Here's my questions. From the TCs mentioned above, how would you rank them in terms of part-throttle acceleration/reponse & overall streetability? If you were going to do a little autocross racing, which TC would you prefer?

boomcase

Ok ill give my view on the TCI streetfighter, I had this converter for over 2 years in my 1999 TA, with 273 gears I ran 12.40s at 110mph in the 1/4 full weight , with bolt on mods..On nitto 555r drag radials I cut consistent 1.75s 60 ft times all motor. That converter is an awesome nitrous converter to , I used to run a 90shot with it and run 11.50s at 118mph on nittos, personally in autocross wouldnt you want the motor to stay in its power range maybe a TCI 3500 will work better for you seeing as you have 342s in the rear, just guessing , ...........

CamaroCain

iTrader: (1)

I would step it up to a SSF3500, it is still a very streetable converter, my husband just installed one in a friends car and he said you can't even tell there is a converter in there. Plus I think it would be perfect for your 3.42's

Colonel

"I DO NOT want to compromise my city driving."

Based on this comment I'd say you're making a good choice. It sounds like you're really wanting to place the emphasis on streetability. However, it would be great if you could drive a car with a 3500 first though. You might find that it's tight enough for your tastes (it is for most people) or you may not.

heyitsTaJay

i agree with all of the above. the 3500 is undoubtedly the better choice. i would reconsider. u wont lose much driveability at all. its said that you always GO BIGGER!

nuzee

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I understand that I can get a tenth or more ET from going with a 3500 or greater TC. But I don't want to sacrifice/compromise daily driving anymore than I have too. I have driven a Yank 3000 F-body and it was loose. I'm rolling the dice in hopes that the TCI3000 is going to be tighter than the Yank3000 because of the higher str, 2.0 vs. 2.2. I also saw the video of SamZ28 with the TCI3500. That was too loose.

I do ALOT of under 30 mph driving with plenty of stops. Hardly any highway cruising so I rarely go into lockup. I originally got 11-12 mpg when I was stock w/2.73 gears if that says something. Thank you for all for your input!

Akuma

good god 11-12 mpg?!... i have 3.23's and get 21-22 mpg with 1/2 city 1/2 hwy.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

[QUOTE=nuzee]Yeah I understand that I can get a tenth or more ET from going with a 3500 or greater TC. But I don't want to sacrifice/compromise daily driving anymore than I have too. I have driven a Yank 3000 F-body and it was loose. I'm rolling the dice in hopes that the TCI3000 is going to be tighter than the Yank3000 because of the higher str, 2.0 vs. 2.2. I also saw the video of SamZ28 with the TCI3500. That was too loose.
QUOTE]

I don't think I am on the same page with everybody on this
"tight / loose" thing, but if a higher STR makes "tight" then
the SSF 3500/2.5 shoulf be tighter than the SF 3000/2.2,
than the Yank 3000/2.0 converter.

But the low STR should actually provide you more light-
pedal coupling and a more "elastic" feel while the higher
STR should just paddlewheel until higher RPM / pedal,
then come on hard with a higher thrust.

When I'm loafing along in city traffic I like the SF3000 just
fine. The only time I wish I'd gone bigger is maybe 75%
throttle and above. City driving is also greatly improvable
by part-throttle shift programming, whatever your converter.
In a lot of low-speed driving on these cars, I think the
converter is basically a crutch for lame factory shift
settings (you can get to the powerband either way).

nuzee

iTrader: (2)

After swapping in 3.42s my mileage improved to 12-13 mpg. Then I did the velocity stack & throttle body bypass mod & improved to 13-14. I just recently started running the HPP3 tuning for daily driving and am amazed at seeing further improvement in mpg, >14mpg. Before the velocity stack/TB bypass, the HPP3 tuning would kill my mpg, <10mpg. So it seems that the v-stack/TB bypass eliminated predetonation brought-on by the HPP3 tuning. I'm pleased with the improvements.

I just wanted to show that I do ALOT of stop & go driving. That is why I posted the mpg figures. BTW my 4-cyl Subaru gets 16-17 mpg when I use it for the same commute.

boomcase

Dude Whats Wrong With Your Car , I Can Get 18 Highway And 14 City With My Shitbox All Day With My Mods And 3800 Stall Converter........

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

You have to take into account that most of us do County/Highway driving(i refuse to take my ta to the ghetto ). He's doing mostly stop in go in a true city type condition, combined with an aggressive foot and a/c, kiss milage goodbye. If his ls1 is close to his 4cyl car, then he can't be doing that bad.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Yeah, if you spend all your time accelerating and
decelerating a heavy car between 0 and 30MPH
your mileage is going to suck.

Colonel

Just so that no one gets the wrong idea about the stall speed/STR drivability situation....

The STR does help the feel of the converter a little bit but the stall speed of the converter has way more to do with the streetability of the converter than does the STR. In other words, a 3200/2.0 would be tighter feeling than a 3500/2.5, for example.