Predator

What is it, what does it look like, how do I use it, and where can I get one?

On jmx's site, he mentions a pulley puller, and a longer crank bolt, but is this installer tool really necessary, or does it make the job a lot easier?

I'm more worried about messing around with the pulley than the actual cam and spring swap.

Thanks.

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

As a bare minimum you'll need a longer crank bolt to get the pulley started on the crank. The stocker isn't long enough to catch the threads to pull it on at first.

Using a balancer installer is safer cause you're not stressing the threads like you are with a bolt. It's just a long threaded stud that you screw into the crank and then use a nut to pull the balancer on. Simple.

You're more likely to strip the threads out of the crank using the bolt method (although I've done it that way 3-4 times now). I use a bolt about 1" longer than the stocker.

Predator

Thanks man, I planned on getting the longer bolt, but where can I purchase this installer tool?

Also, what's the best pulley puller to get? I planned on just getting a 3-arm puller at Sears, but is there a better one, or one especially made for LS1s?

marc_w

Predator, I just tossed my valvetrain mods in this weekend...

I "made" a tool to hold the flywheel in my A4, and I had the pulley off in five minutes. It was nothing!

I have longer crank bolts here if you need them. I didn't realize I'd need a few washers to go along with them, so I had to fab one up. All I had around was some aluminum stock. It lasted just long enough to get they pulley on enough to use the stock crank bolt. I stopped by Home Depot in Auburn, but they didn't have anything even CLOSE to what I needed. I think I'll go through that hardware store in Jersey, where I bought my longer crank bolts. They were here the day after I ordered them.

Don't sweat it, it's not bad at all. If you let me know when you're doing the swap, I may be able to stop by...

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Check with 2xLS1 for the pulley installer tool. $25 shipped. I received mine last week. Nicely packed and includes a little instruction sheet also. He had a limited number and wouldn't be making anymore.

Just PM him..

marc_w

The puller at Sears worked GREAT. The "larger" claws fit the notches in the pulley perfectly.

Predator

Thanks marc, I appreciate that! And glad to hear it worked out so well for you.

I called TR about an hour ago about my order. They were holding it up until the JPR Installation Tool came in. They said that JPR shipped them already so it won't be long. My "Larry Tool" is due Wednesday, so maybe by next week I can tackle this install.

I appreciate your kind offer, and I'll let you know when I get started, or stuck, one or the other.

Thanks again!!

Predator

Thanks for the lead Venom!!

marc, glad to hear about that pulley puller tool from Sears. The one I was gonna get is part# 46906 at $39.95 (I think).

I appreciate the moral support and info.

Thanks!!!

Z28Venom

iTrader: (13)

Just a quick question for ya?

Why did you spend all that $$$ for the JPR install tool...

Just a heads up.. $6 at your local hardware store and you could have made your own $90 tool.

5/16 rod.. and grind a bit off of one side so that it smoothly fits into the groove..

As a mattter of fact, if you pay shipping.. I'll send you the set that I made..

marc_w

Cool, yeah, give me a yell - I'd love to check out a f-body up and close.

I made up some 5/16" rods for my swap, but they didn't really work. The drivers side didn't want to go in at all - it felt like the hole in the block was oval.

The passenger side slid in very easy, but got hung up on the last four lifters like I've been hearing others do.

I'm 99% sure that's the puller I got from sears. It's the 2/3 jaw puller, in a flat plastic package, all unassembled. It really couldn't work any better.

The Larry tool works great too. I used the TDC method on the springs. One tip if you use that method - The retainer will probably contact the valves "shank" when you're cranking down the tool, and it'll slide the valve down into the cylinder a bit. Use a pair of pliers or something to pull the valves back up into their seats so you don't have to crank the heck out of the tool and spring to reach the valve stem.

I'm going to order some washers for my longer crank bolts...

Predator

That's a good question Venom, and the truth is that I'm kicking myself now since this JPR Tool was holding up my order. My thinking at the time was that it would be one less thing to worry about having to run down, and I was thinking that there would probably more cam installs in my future, and I would have a good quality tool that I could use over and over, but it seems that just a couple lengths of rod would accomplish the same thing.

In a nutshell, I f***** up!

I appreciate your kind offer, but my order from TR is due any day.

Thanks again!

Predator

marc, in that case, I'll let you know for sure when I'm starting the install. I appreciate it!

Yup, the Sears puller I was interested in is called a 2/3 puller. I guess you can use it as either a 2 or 3 arm puller. I hope Sears at the Auburn Mall has them in the store.

Glad to hear about the Larry Tool too, and thanks for the tips!

marc_w

I got mine at the Auburn Mall.

Also, you're going to love that TR224 on a 112.

My little guy is nice, but I wish I went bigger.

Predator

Excellent!

BTW, how do you like your new cam? Enough grunt down low for ya? Did you have any idling problems? That must be an awesome truck!

I got an '02 Dakota with a 4.7L OHC V-8.

Predator

I think you only lost out on about 10hp--no big deal, especially talking trucks. Heck, that truck you got is VERY strong just stock, so the cam's all gravy.

marc_w

The thing drives almost like stock. I couldn't believe it. With the stock 500 rpm idle speed on basically stock tune, it had a slow lazy lope to it. It didn't even stall with me holding the brake, and squirting the gas in gear. It did buck down and surge a bit, but it always recovered.

It sounds best up around 600rpm - it's smooth as stock and lopes a little "cleaner". At 700rpm or so, it's very hard to detect.

The only power I lost is a very, VERY small amount under 1,500rpm. It feels just like my old 5.3 truck did. It's not doggy at all. I only noticed it when I cruised up a hill on my street. I can usually make it without kicking down out of OD, but I couldn't last night.

I can lug the motor right down to 1,100rpm locked up, and let it happily pull back up to speed on a flat road. No bucking or surging.

It feels very close to stock, sometimes stronger from 1,500 to 2,500. At 2,500 there is a small increase in torque - I can feel it on the hills around here.

I haven't really beat on it yet... I only swept past 3,500 once or so, and I felt it start to pull pretty good up there.

I need a little bit of tuning though - I'm getting a lot of KR at tip-in from a stop. I'm not sure what's causing it. I also need headers. I feel like there is a lot more left on the table with these manifolds.

zamboxl

iTrader: (1)

where can one get one of them longer crank bolts.

marc_w

I got mine at http://www.mcmaster.com.

I forget the part number though... I know it's listed on the site somewhere.

Predator

marc, you would definitely free up a lot of hp by getting headers (as you know), but you're in a good position now with your cam and new springs already installed. I suspect with headers, you won't be wishing you got a different cam, either.