max's dad

I'm toying with the idea of going solid roller. I'll be using a hyd roller cam, a TSP 231/237, 1.75 RR, and patriot springs. I've got adjustable rockers, so I'm thinking this may help with long term durability. Any issues, other than maintenance, with doing this?

FASTONE

Why do you think solid would be more durable?If you put solid rollers on that cam it will act smaller then with hyd. lifters because of the LASH you must run,less lift and less duration=less power.If you want to go solid get a solid cam,you"ll need about 6-8 more degrees to equal the hyd. cam.A solid cam usually has faster ramps too.Solid lifters a usually lighter too.Does this make any sense?????

z98

You are using a hyd cam with solid rollers?

Not a good idea.

Solid roller cams have a gentle ramp at first to keep from slamming into the lifters too hard.

Call a sponsor and talk to someone about this. I'm pretty sure they will tell you it is a HORRIBLE idea and you should go with an actual solid cam.

JF WS6

Yep, basically for a solid set up you need to replace your entire valve train. I think you need to do some more research into what a "solid roller" set up really is...

You need: solid cam - solid roller profile, solid lifters, pushrods for a solid set up, machine the heads for the pushrods, adjustable shaft mount rockers and specific valve springs and valves to a solid roller set up. You'll also probably want to have an ignition/starter bump switch so you can rotate the motor over while your adjusting the valve lash.

If you really want a set up such as this I'd talk to Alan at Futral, he has built more solid set up LS1's than anyone else I've heard of.

taqwache

dont forget you will also need longer valves to fit the taller springs.

max's dad

I hear you guys. I asked because some 5.0 Ford guys I know have swapped slow ramp, high lift hyd cams into solid roller setups with good results. They did this after seeing high rpm valve float with the heavier hyd lifter. I'm just hoping my new hyd roller set up works well above 6400rpm.

JF WS6

Huh, that is interesting. Still doesn't sound like a good idea... if you wanted to do something "similar" I guess and still stay hydraulic to fix valve float issues I'd try something like Schubeck (a hyd. lifter, but acts more like a solid lifter) or Comp R lifters, adjustable shaft mount rocker arms and very stiff double springs - Comp 978's etc. A set up like that with the preload set accurately would be pretty stout and should control the valve train well up to 7K rpms I would think. I wouldn't mess with either of those 2 lifters though without adjustable rocker arms, they seem to be a bit finicky with preload....

Most of the LS1's with valve float I've seen have either inadequate or faulty valve springs, so make sure you have a good set.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

Comp has some "Ford" ramps/lobes that are designed to be used on both hydraulic and solid lifters. This may be how they are getting away with doing that swap.

BTL FED

iTrader: (9)

Wow I guess alot of people dont like solid rollers on this post, dont let these guys scare you. There is nothing wrong with running a solid roller on the street. As for having to run more duration on a solid to equal the same power on a hydro, thats B.S. IF you have the same cam on hydro lobes, and solid lobes, the solid will make more power, and idle better. Thats the great things about solid rollers, you can get away with alot bigger cams and keep a decent idle.

If you are going to run a solid roller, the inital setup can be expensive:
You will Need
Solid Cam
Solid Lifters
Heads Machined for bigger Springs
Bigger Valve Springs
Shaft Mounted Adjustable Rockers
Spacers for the valvecovers to clear the rockers

People say solids require too much work:
I check the lash on a solid motor about every 3000 miles, and usually they are still dead on, the only way the lash will change is because something is wearing, and that usually means you have a problem.

z98

R > C > P