Drying the car
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lincoln, Ne
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drying the car
Ok this seems like an obvious question/answer but i need to know. I have a black SS which has beautiful paint. I do not know what the original owners method was but im sure some of you guys have the best ways. My buddy who has a black 96 Z28 that you couldnt tell wasnt straight off the show room floor has told me not to use towels when drying the car. Telling me that towels will leave the slightest of scratches in your clearcoat, the kind you see under those harsh parking lot lights. I have given up on towels, but it is ridiculous when it comes to the time it takes to dry it off with a shammy (spelling?). I have to believe there are towels out there soft enough that will cause no damage. Please post your methods or info regaurding towel usage. ESSPECIALLY other owners with black cars. However all comments are highly appreciated.
#2
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston/College Station, TX
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use The Absorber, which can be found at any auto parts store. It works A LOT better than a regular chamois; then I blow out all the nooks and cranny's around the body with an air compressor.
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lincoln, Ne
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Waffle-weave micro fiber towel? Where can i get one? I do have the Absorber as well, it still takes to damn long. The car gets water spotted to quicklky. I have some micro fiber towels but they are only about 8in x 8 in. I have to believe you guys are using larger ones, b/c you would definately go through about 20 of those little things while drying a car. Any info on where i can find a Large micro fiber drying towel would really help out. If availabe online, please include a link or some form of direction. Thanks.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by C.J.
You guys like a certain brand of waffle weave micro fiber towel? I found some made by the brand Cobra that look pretty decent.
#10
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Shelton Ct
Posts: 662
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Electric leaf blower, micro fiber towels and instant detailer.
Gas leaf blowers blow the exhaust all over the paint and leave an oily residue. I don't dry the car completly but get most of the water off. Then I spray the car with instant detailer and wipe it with the micro fiber. This gets all the spots off the car and seems to help the wax last longer.
I bought some microfiber towels from pepboys and they work pretty well, not as good as a high quality but better than nothing.
Gas leaf blowers blow the exhaust all over the paint and leave an oily residue. I don't dry the car completly but get most of the water off. Then I spray the car with instant detailer and wipe it with the micro fiber. This gets all the spots off the car and seems to help the wax last longer.
I bought some microfiber towels from pepboys and they work pretty well, not as good as a high quality but better than nothing.
#12
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I always use waffle weave microfiber towels. Nothing else touches my custom paint job for drying. I also use compressed air for the hard to reach places. And always make sure your car is completely clean, cause even the slightest left over dirt makes drying by hand pointless and will still cause very fine scratches. Make sure when you wash your microfiber you wash it alone and that you are using fragrant free liquid detergent. Powdered detergent can leave small traces of undissolved detergent traped in the microfiber which can scratch your paint the next time they are used.
#14
Stop using the absorber, Mine got sandy feeling and I know it got my black paint scratched up. You need to buy a few waffel leave microfiber towels, they dont absorb better but the waffle weave patten has little pockets that allow the water to be absorbed on more sides, so there is more wicking action, anyways. The absolute best way to dry your car is to do this
1. Wax every 3-4 weeks depending ont he durability of your wax, water should beat like a ****, when the water beads start getting flat (look for this when you are washing inbetween waxes) instead of being very round, you need to wax again.
Keeping the car waxed will help with the second step.
2. When washing the car, spray it down with a nozzle, wash it in sections, spraying off each section after you wash it to prevent soap from drying, and thenwhen you are completely done washing and rinsing, rinse one more time. but TAKE OFF THE NOZZLE!!
start at the top and let the water run from the end of the open hose, this works incredibly well, the waxed surface will allow the running water to sheet off like mad. work from top to bottom and try not to splash.
what happens is the nozzle "atomizes" the water into a mist. with all of these little water particles, the water can all set down on the surface, this allows you to gather more water on the surface. so obvioulsy, use the open hose technique will take off 3/4 of the water if not more, when done right..
so that is by far the greatest drying technique in my book, nothing comes close.. air drying helps because it is softer than microfiber lol but even then, you want to make sure that the ambient air is super clean because the blower sucks in ambient air and propels it toward your car... if your car is wet, and there is dust in the air... your bllowing dust into the water, then when you wipe down, you are going to cause scratches.
air compressors are better but they dont give you that massive volume of air.. I say, use the hose technique and dab/blot up any left over water drops with a microfiber towel. once u get this down washing the car will be lots more fun
1. Wax every 3-4 weeks depending ont he durability of your wax, water should beat like a ****, when the water beads start getting flat (look for this when you are washing inbetween waxes) instead of being very round, you need to wax again.
Keeping the car waxed will help with the second step.
2. When washing the car, spray it down with a nozzle, wash it in sections, spraying off each section after you wash it to prevent soap from drying, and thenwhen you are completely done washing and rinsing, rinse one more time. but TAKE OFF THE NOZZLE!!
start at the top and let the water run from the end of the open hose, this works incredibly well, the waxed surface will allow the running water to sheet off like mad. work from top to bottom and try not to splash.
what happens is the nozzle "atomizes" the water into a mist. with all of these little water particles, the water can all set down on the surface, this allows you to gather more water on the surface. so obvioulsy, use the open hose technique will take off 3/4 of the water if not more, when done right..
so that is by far the greatest drying technique in my book, nothing comes close.. air drying helps because it is softer than microfiber lol but even then, you want to make sure that the ambient air is super clean because the blower sucks in ambient air and propels it toward your car... if your car is wet, and there is dust in the air... your bllowing dust into the water, then when you wipe down, you are going to cause scratches.
air compressors are better but they dont give you that massive volume of air.. I say, use the hose technique and dab/blot up any left over water drops with a microfiber towel. once u get this down washing the car will be lots more fun
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lincoln, Ne
Posts: 578
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey everybody thanks a ton. I can't wait to give it a try. I definately need to go buy some more microfiber towels. Man i love this website. Thanks.