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How many of you have had wheel studs break or seen then break at the track?

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Old 03-02-2005, 01:09 PM
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Default How many of you have had wheel studs break or seen then break at the track?

After reading the other post, now you have me worried. I have a new setup this year (TH400 w/ brake, 408ci,) plus a little spray. I have a moser 12bolt, but my vert is heavy and I am putting down some decent power on slicks.

Should I upgrade my studs? Is this a common problem?
Old 03-02-2005, 03:02 PM
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You'll see knuckle heads run spools on the street for regular driving and all of that turning and subsequent loading and unloading of the studs will cause a failure. Go with ARP studs if you are worried in the largest diameter you can fit, and things should be ok.
Old 03-02-2005, 04:48 PM
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any good 1/2" stud will be fine. i think the failures happen when they are not torqued properly....or are loose. Bob Kurgan in nmra renegade uses 4lug 1/2" studs and goes mid 8's without braking them.
Old 03-02-2005, 04:59 PM
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I have never seen an LS1 break a stud, but we put 5/8" studs in our '01 SS just to be sure.
Old 03-02-2005, 05:57 PM
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5/8" studs here also. Better safe than sorry.

Coach
Old 03-02-2005, 07:31 PM
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i cut the studs that came from moser on my 12 bolt. it wasnt cool. i ran spacers. no more.
Old 03-02-2005, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Coach 02 A3 Z/28
5/8" studs here also. Better safe than sorry.

Coach
that's what i'm talking about!
Old 03-02-2005, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ElEsWon
You'll see knuckle heads run spools on the street for regular driving and all of that turning and subsequent loading and unloading of the studs will cause a failure.
Wow, I never realized I was a knuckle head! I've yet to break a 7/16" or 1/2" stud in 5 years with a spool, go figure! I'd run 5/8" like Coach stated for additional strength and safety, but my wheels won't allow it.

Derek
Old 03-03-2005, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Villain281H
Wow, I never realized I was a knuckle head! I've yet to break a 7/16" or 1/2" stud in 5 years with a spool, go figure! I'd run 5/8" like Coach stated for additional strength and safety, but my wheels won't allow it.

Derek
Call Moser or Strange and see what they tell you about using a spool on the street- it is not reccomended. When you turn, the inner wheel goes a shorter distance than the outer- however since the spool is locking them together, you have no way to differentiate the rotation. As such you get loading and unloading on the studs; if you do this enough times you will eventually break wheel studs (less likely they higher the quality of the studs as well as the larger diameter, but still is possible due to metal fatigue)
Old 03-03-2005, 12:27 AM
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On the 5/8 studs. I have a Moser 9" with Draglites and I would like to convert to 5/8" studs. But this means I have to change rims and the axles correct..??? I already have hats drilled for 5/8" studs on my Aerospace drag brake setup....
Old 03-03-2005, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ElEsWon
Call Moser or Strange and see what they tell you about using a spool on the street- it is not reccomended. When you turn, the inner wheel goes a shorter distance than the outer- however since the spool is locking them together, you have no way to differentiate the rotation. As such you get loading and unloading on the studs; if you do this enough times you will eventually break wheel studs (less likely they higher the quality of the studs as well as the larger diameter, but still is possible due to metal fatigue)
I'm aware of the fact if you call Moser or Strange, they don't suggest spool use on the street. If you can find me a posi that lasts and doesn't allow one-wheel to spin more than the other in the burnout box or the starting line, I'll swap. Not too many 10 second or quicker street-strip cars use anything except a spool (just a general statement based on people I know and raced with). The thing with a spool is knowing about what is mentioned above and the wheels will ALWAYS turn the same amount. As long as you know about this and drive accordingly, it's not that bad.
Funny thing; if you call up Mickey Thompson and ask them about their ET Drag slicks they state they are not for street use, but does that mean that people don't drive on the street with them???? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.......

Derek
Old 03-03-2005, 07:03 PM
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I have stock bottom end w/ th350 not using the transbrake but on stock rear and studs with a 150 shot. 500+ rwhp I guess I am pushing it for this kind of failure... aint I?
Old 03-03-2005, 09:50 PM
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Hugh,

Depends on how often you beat on it. I've seen plenty of stock 10-bolts last, but racing on them every week can claim them quicker as opposed to once a month or less. Just based on my experience with racing and what breaks.

Derek
Old 03-04-2005, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by redrumss
On the 5/8 studs. I have a Moser 9" with Draglites and I would like to convert to 5/8" studs. But this means I have to change rims and the axles correct..??? I already have hats drilled for 5/8" studs on my Aerospace drag brake setup....
Can someone give me some feedback please.. TIA
Old 03-04-2005, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by redrumss
On the 5/8 studs. I have a Moser 9" with Draglites and I would like to convert to 5/8" studs. But this means I have to change rims and the axles correct..??? I already have hats drilled for 5/8" studs on my Aerospace drag brake setup....
you should not have to change axles, but you current wheels will not fit.
Old 03-04-2005, 08:57 AM
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My Weld pro stars fit a 5/8 wheel stud no problem. I would think that Weld Draglites would fit also. You shouldn't have to change axles.

Coach

Last edited by Coach 02 A3 Z/28; 03-04-2005 at 11:55 AM.
Old 03-04-2005, 09:07 AM
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Can the axle hubs be enlarged to fit a 5/8" stud...???? And the Draglites use a shank style lugnut. I would have thought you would've needed a different wheel..
Old 03-04-2005, 09:26 AM
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Yes, we have drilled-out these axles for larger studs. Coach 02 and I clearly disagree, which is OK, but doesn't really help you much in your decision making.
Old 03-04-2005, 10:19 AM
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I've seen a few guys blow the studs right off the car (One was on the street...he rolled the car a few times in traffic...not good). The one constant with all the cars was a spool on the street. I would think a few street miles would be ok but beyond that I would be worried. That's what makes a steet/strip car so hard to build. The question you have to ask is, "What am I going to do with the car and how many miles will I drive on the street?"

Just my .02
Old 03-04-2005, 10:42 AM
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Good point, because I don't believe that a spool is the best choice for most of these LS1 street/strip cars. We have found that an Eaton posi with 800 lbs springs is plenty good enough for 99% of LS1 cars, particularly those running 10s or slower.



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