2001 Red Coupe Bandit

You guys are THE SMARTEST AROUND about Nitrous. I have a 2001 A4 Corvette. See Sig for Mods. Running about 11.42 at 123 MPH now and 7.15 at 96MPH in the 1/8th Mile. Don't get to the 1/4 too often.

I want to go ahead and get Nitrous.

I don't want to mess witha WET Kit( More hassle, things can blow up etc etc.)I used to want a WET Kit, but for my needs and the ease of everything, I just want a bit extra HP that will get me in the 10's and for ocasionaly street fun.

I know a decent amount about NOS in general, but want to know from someone who had an A4 and had or has a dry Kit.

A few questions that come to mind.

-What KIT? (NOS 5177?)

-Where do I plug the nitrous into before the MAF. I have a Vortex Air Rammer (Bottom Breather)

--Do I need BOTH an MSD Window Switch & WOT Switch.
(Does the WOT switch go under the gas pedal).

-What else should I get and what MUST I HAVE????????????????
exBottle Heater, MSD Switch, WOT Switch, Bottle Opener, do I need a (3) switch panel that fits in ash tray, what are the buttons for normally (purge, bottle heater, bottle warmer) and then an ARM Switch?, Does it come with this stuff? I also want a purge line (I know I am a poser, but just to have it) .

-HAT SIZE Bottle (10 or 15) will they fit in the rear center compartment? Maybe I cut a hole like some and mount upright at an angle. I don't care if it is visable.

-What Tuning is needed via LS1? What tables. I guess just Pull Timing Out when it is on?

-Do I need colder spark plugs,,, (NKG TR-6's?)

-WHAT DOES IT FEEL LIKE? Describe how it comes on.

-I was told Dry hits SOFTER that WET, but its easier on your car?

-Is it SAFE? What can go wrong?

I guess in a dry kit it is just (1) Gauge....

-Anything else guys/ Pics are always great?

-Cool place for Purge Lines (I have seen out side Gills or out the front Z06 Screens) What is coolest.

Am I an idiot for adding this to my Car?

Thanks in Advance Guys for allyour help!

The Bandit....
______________

MODS Yank SS4000, 3.42's, 228 Cam, Stage II Heads, KOOKS Headers, Z06 Exhaust, ASP Pulley, Vortex Intake, Ported TB, ZO6 Sways, Bilstein's, B&M Tranny Cooler, 18" BFG G-Force Drag Radials, LS1 Edit Tuning by Chris (The Bear) Robinson.
**Best 1/4 Mile 11.42 at 122.58MPH (1.73 60')
**Best 1/8th 7.15 at 95.55

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

-What KIT? (NOS 5177?)
Cold Fusion! We're a dealer so I'm a bit biased.

-Where do I plug the nitrous into before the MAF. I have a Vortex Air Rammer (Bottom Breather)
Anywhere before the MAF and you'll be fine. Most kits come with a nut for there nozzle to screw into and secure it in place. It can be used in soft or hard plastic.

--Do I need BOTH an MSD Window Switch & WOT Switch.
(Does the WOT switch go under the gas pedal). Any
other options or is this the best?
You will need a window switch and a WOT switch. Most kits come with the WOT switch. Another option for you might be the the BMN window switch & a TPS switch instead of the WOT switch.

-What else should I get and what MUST I HAVE????????????????

ex:

(Bottle Heater, MSD Switch, WOT Switch, Bottle Opener, do I need a (3) switch panel that fits in ash tray, what are the buttons for normally (purge, bottle heater, bottle warmer) and then an ARM Switch?, Does it come with this stuff? I also want a purge line (I know I am a poser, but just to have it) .
That is all good stuff to have, though you do not need the bottle opener or switch panel, but they are very nice to have. You usually have switches to arm the system, purge, bottle opener, and bottle heater. I would also look into a Fuel Pressure Safety Switch and you'll need some colder plugs (NGK TR-6). Depending where you are at in the HP level you'll also need larger injectors (for the dry kit, not needed on a wet), a tune for the larger injectors, and maybe an upgraded fuel pump.

-What Tuning is needed via LS1? My good friend is a guru on LS1 Edit here so he will kno what to do.
You'll need WOT A/F tuning, and then injector too if you add larger injectors. You might also want to pull a few degrees of timing, like 2.

-Do I need colder spark plugs,,, (NKG TR-6's?)
Yup.

-WHAT DOES IT FEEL LIKE? Describe how it comes on.
Hard! A wet kit will hit a bit harder though.

-I was told Dry hits lighter than WET, but its easier on your car?
The TQ spike does not happen, so it is a bit easier on your tranny and such.

-Is it SAFE? What can go wrong?
It is very safe! As long as you use the proper safety equipment (fuel pressure safety switch, window switch...) you'll be fine.

We're running a 15% off dry, 10% off wet & DP kits now. Here's a like to our dry kit:
http://www.harrisspeedworks.com/shop...cat=305&page=1

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!

Thanks,
Matt

2001 Red Coupe Bandit

Matt,

Thanks so much for your answers. I really appreciate it!

I am off to look at your kits now.

Also, what do you guys think I might run?????? or what will I pick up in ET. and MPH at the track with say 100 Jet.

Alos, someone said I DONT need a bottle warmer on a DRY kit? is this true?

I currently Run BFG DR's (295/35/18) all the time

BUT

will be switching to Nitto 555R in a few weeks. I know they hook less at the track, but I ain't that rich and $500 for tires every 3 months on the BFG is getting old

2001 Red Coupe Bandit

Have 28# Injectors,,,

DO I NEED BIGGER ONES?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Get a full throttle log of RPM and injector pulse width
and your AFR. You can get the max injector duty cycle
from the pulse width & RPM.

Figure you will have to run that injector now at
((baseHP+shotHP)/baseHP)*currentMaxDuty and the
number had better be well less than 100%. Also people
like to run richer with N2O so you might throw in an
additional scale factor of currentAFR/richerAFR to
see how much more you would be pushing duty cycle
up.

As an example, say you have a 400HP NA motor and a
150 shot. Your logs show an injector PW of 16.5mS at
6100RPM where your RPM peak during shifts. Your AFR is
13.0 already but you figure maybe 12.5:1 on the spray
is a better idea.

16.5*6100/1200 = 84% duty cycle max for the car as is.

(400+150)/400 = 1.375X the output HP, meaning 1.375X
the fuel. So if you wanted to spray all the way through
the shift, that would mean 115% duty cycle. No good.
Most people put a window switch and stop short of the
shift though, so maybe you take it back to 5500RPM.
That's still about 80% duty though, NA, still short if
you want that much dry shot by 10% (110% calculated
duty).

Now figure in the enrichment for safety, 13.0/12.5=1.04.

1.04*1.375*28.8lb injectors would mean 42lb injectors to
put you back at a nice safe 80%-ish duty cycle on the
bottle.

If you wanted to push your luck and duty cycle on the
stock injectors, say 95% max duty at 6100RPM, that
would be a 13% HP increase sustainable, tops. So
1.13 = (400+N2O)/400, indicating a max 50 shot to
stay below 95% on the stock injectors (given that you
are at 400HP already and willing to play that close to
the edge of fueling and not enrich any, and so on).
It's the total HP that really sets the injector size and
a lower-initial-HP car could run a correspondingly
bigger shot, more or less.

Anyhow this is the kind of calculating you want to do.
I wonder whether there is anything like a handy Excel
sheet that works the trades for you....

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

No prob. You will still need a bottle heater on a dry kit, or else you would not be able to maintain a 900 -1050 bottle pressure.

It's hard to say what you might run, too many variables. But figure somewhere (ballpark) around a 1 second drop in et with an increase of 10 mph.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Matt

Matt@HSW

iTrader: (14)

Good info. There was an excel sheet at one time that would figure out the info for ya, just need to export a .csv file from EFI Live and import it in. I'll try to dig it up and see who wrote it.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I missed your post this morning. (we have e-mailed on this subject) Some good input here. On my '97 I was spraying through the the shifts, so if you raise your rev limiter you will be fine without a window sw, furthermore, the lenght of the lines on the 5177 act like a built in ws at the start when going wot from your lower auto rpm. But, like was said some don't want the adde wear/tear on auto so ws would do it for that. A bottle heater is a good idea for draging to be consistant, however, dry can vary the a/f as the bottle pressure goes down, and wet can't. Matt@HSW has a nice kit and fair price and you'll get good customer service. that's the problem with going NOS, there customer service sucks big time.

2001 Red Coupe Bandit

Thanks,

my car is NOt Stock obviosuly, see original post for mods.

My shifts now are at about 6800 RPM's and i have a YANK SS4000 TC.

I will look at all options. I mean most of the Dry kits from reputable companies are very similar.

Thanks

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

JimmyBlue, man as good as you are with tuning, maybe you could get a tuner program together for us Dry n2o guys? I have been working on a custom dry tune for a while now and seem to be getting it. What's nice about dry hits is the timing can be pulled without effecting your n/a tune-two tunes in one. Allthough at this point I need no timing pulled and am running 11.5 to 11.8 at wot depending where in the rpm band. Thanks for the info.