Horrible Swirl Marks
#1
Horrible Swirl Marks
Hey guys, I just washed my car today and the swirl marks in my paint are really starting to get to me they are really kinda bad its pretty obvious to me that the previous owner did a horrible job of taking care of the paint. But I just ordered a mothers claybar and I will claybar and wax it on tuesday. Will the claybar take alot of these swirl marks out? Should I use some scratch x after the claybar and before the wax? Also I think this car has probably never been claybared so this could make a really big difference what do you think? Also I know there is all kinda info in stickys but do you all have any advice for claybarring especially seeing as this is probably this cars first claybarring ever. Thanks alot guys
#2
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pick up some polish i recomend Klasse since u get a lot for 20 bucks...and pick up a porter cable or a rotary buffer....and buff out those swirl marks...then get a sealer and put on some carnuba wax it will give it that wet look...i need to do this aswell...hope this helps
Klasse http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kla-10.html
Sealant http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kls-gla.html
and just use any type of carnuba wax...best bang for the buck would be mguiars NXT tech wax
and if u dont have a buffer (orbitals are horrible) pick up one from harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46507
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
hope that helps...
Klasse http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kla-10.html
Sealant http://www.autopia-carcare.com/kus-kls-gla.html
and just use any type of carnuba wax...best bang for the buck would be mguiars NXT tech wax
and if u dont have a buffer (orbitals are horrible) pick up one from harbor freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46507
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623
hope that helps...
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Will the claybar take alot of these swirl marks out?
No, only a polisher or a PC will remove swirl marks.
Should I use some scratch x after the claybar and before the wax?
if you do use the scratchx then yes after the clay but before the wax.
Also I know there is all kinda info in stickys but do you all have any advice for claybarring especially seeing as this is probably this cars first claybarring ever. heres an article on detaling clay. Detailing Clay
No, only a polisher or a PC will remove swirl marks.
Should I use some scratch x after the claybar and before the wax?
if you do use the scratchx then yes after the clay but before the wax.
Also I know there is all kinda info in stickys but do you all have any advice for claybarring especially seeing as this is probably this cars first claybarring ever. heres an article on detaling clay. Detailing Clay
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all of the info above is dead on. i however, didn't have an orbital polisher. here is a link if you don't already have the polisher or don't have the funds to get one that should help out. all of the work in these pics is done by hand.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/340385-new-zaino-swirl-remover.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/340385-new-zaino-swirl-remover.html
#6
I see you used some zaino swirl remover , have you tried meguiars scratch x? If so how much better is the zaino ?
Oh I had another question, All these products say you should do it out of direct sunlight the only possible place for that is in my garage so my question is will claybarring make a mess all over the garage floor ?( my parents are kinda **** about the garage ) Sorry for the noobie questions but gotta learn somehow ! Thanks guys
Oh I had another question, All these products say you should do it out of direct sunlight the only possible place for that is in my garage so my question is will claybarring make a mess all over the garage floor ?( my parents are kinda **** about the garage ) Sorry for the noobie questions but gotta learn somehow ! Thanks guys
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I did the claybar thing on my car for the first time about a week ago. Here's what I learned...
Wet and soapy is good for claybars as well as for girlfriends. Keep the area you're working on wet & soapy. It's cheap, don't scrimp. Just don't get mixed up and try to claybar your girlfriend.
Work your way around the car a panel at a time. Don't miss any part. Don't go at it haphazardly. Be methodical.
If you don't keep it wet and soapy it will come off onto the car. Pick it back up with the clay bar. Don't press too hard.
Did I mention wet & soapy?
Keep turning the bar over on itself to show a clean area to the car. When in doubt, turn it out.
You'll be able to tell how much stuff you're picking up in a matter of seconds due to 1) the bar is getting dirty, and 2) the surface feels smoother every time you rub over it.
My car was more shiny after the bar and wax than it was in the past. I'm a convert.
Wet and soapy is good for claybars as well as for girlfriends. Keep the area you're working on wet & soapy. It's cheap, don't scrimp. Just don't get mixed up and try to claybar your girlfriend.
Work your way around the car a panel at a time. Don't miss any part. Don't go at it haphazardly. Be methodical.
If you don't keep it wet and soapy it will come off onto the car. Pick it back up with the clay bar. Don't press too hard.
Did I mention wet & soapy?
Keep turning the bar over on itself to show a clean area to the car. When in doubt, turn it out.
You'll be able to tell how much stuff you're picking up in a matter of seconds due to 1) the bar is getting dirty, and 2) the surface feels smoother every time you rub over it.
My car was more shiny after the bar and wax than it was in the past. I'm a convert.
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i dont know what these guys are talking about the only thing better than the orbital buffer is the rotary but if you dont know how to use that you can do more damage than good. but to hurt the car with the PC 7336 or 7424 (same machine different size backing plate) you almost have to try to damage it. ive probably spent about 300-400$ on detailing supplies so far, but its worth it. cheaper than a new paint job, and if you do it right it can look just as good. i would reccomend getting the porter cable 7336 or 7424, (around 100$), an easy abrasive polish to work with, id recommend poorboy's SSR 2.5, (about 12$ )and then SSR1 after that, all poorboys products are very easy to work with. and then a sealer wax and you're all set. you'll also need some pads for the machine, (around 8$ each) get an agressive one to use with the ssr 2.5, and a lighter polishing one for the ssr1.
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store. when i got into all of this i knew about just as much of you, it just takes time and effort.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store. when i got into all of this i knew about just as much of you, it just takes time and effort.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
Last edited by 00firebird; 07-14-2005 at 10:41 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by 00firebird
i dont know what these guys are talking about the only thing better than the orbital buffer is the rotary but if you dont know how to use that you can do more damage than good. but to hurt the car with the PC 7336 or 7424 (same machine different size backing plate) you almost have to try to damage it. ive probably spent about 300-400$ on detailing supplies so far, but its worth it. cheaper than a new paint job, and if you do it right it can look just as good. i would reccomend getting the porter cable 7336 or 7424, (around 100$), an easy abrasive polish to work with, id recommend SSR 2.5, (about 12$ )and then SSR1 after that, and then a sealer wax and you're all set. you'll also need some pads for the machine, (around 8$ each) get an agressive one to use with the ssr 2.5, and a lighter polishing one for the ssr1.
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
DO NOT GET AN ROATARY BUFFER! YOU CAN TAKE THE PAINT OFF IF YOU'RE NOT CAREFUL!
Last edited by KALEL; 08-10-2005 at 05:46 PM.
#15
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A few tips when using the claybar...... Break the clay into 1/3 peices instead of using the whole bar, the main reason for this is if you EVER drop the clay you MUST throw it away, do not reuse it if it ever hits the ground. As mentioned above use plenty of lube either soapy water or the detail spray that comes with it. Also don't forget to do your windows (especaily the windshield) it will make them look and feel like new by getting all the contaminates off, just like it does the paint. If you don't have a PC, then ScratchX is a good choice for getting the most swirls out by hand, when you use scratchX though you have to work it hard, the abrasives break down fast, so rub it really hard when you apply it and try using a peice of terry cloth instead of a foam applicator (it's alittle more aggressive) you may have to apply it 2-3 times to get all the swirls out, but it will take them out (clear coat is very hard). A PC and polish will be much easier and faster, but this will give you giood results by hand. Then after all of this you need to wax of course, if your buying OTC then NXT is one of the best products out there IMO.
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Originally Posted by 00firebird
i dont know what these guys are talking about the only thing better than the orbital buffer is the rotary but if you dont know how to use that you can do more damage than good. but to hurt the car with the PC 7336 or 7424 (same machine different size backing plate) you almost have to try to damage it. ive probably spent about 300-400$ on detailing supplies so far, but its worth it. cheaper than a new paint job, and if you do it right it can look just as good. i would reccomend getting the porter cable 7336 or 7424, (around 100$), an easy abrasive polish to work with, id recommend poorboy's SSR 2.5, (about 12$ )and then SSR1 after that, all poorboys products are very easy to work with. and then a sealer wax and you're all set. you'll also need some pads for the machine, (around 8$ each) get an agressive one to use with the ssr 2.5, and a lighter polishing one for the ssr1.
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store. when i got into all of this i knew about just as much of you, it just takes time and effort.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
once u do all this ul want to work on maintaining it, get some quality microfiber towels, www.pakshak.com is a good place, and a good place to get all the stuff i mentioned is www.exceldetail.com, ive ordered from them, very fast shipping. and of course you should be able to pick up the PC at any local hardware store. when i got into all of this i knew about just as much of you, it just takes time and effort.
here are some old pics of my car,
heres some recent ones
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Originally Posted by Luna
I see you used some zaino swirl remover , have you tried meguiars scratch x? If so how much better is the zaino ?
Oh I had another question, All these products say you should do it out of direct sunlight the only possible place for that is in my garage so my question is will claybarring make a mess all over the garage floor ?( my parents are kinda **** about the garage ) Sorry for the noobie questions but gotta learn somehow ! Thanks guys
Oh I had another question, All these products say you should do it out of direct sunlight the only possible place for that is in my garage so my question is will claybarring make a mess all over the garage floor ?( my parents are kinda **** about the garage ) Sorry for the noobie questions but gotta learn somehow ! Thanks guys
#18
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Scratch X will only hide your swirl marks, not remove them. A terry cloth is not fine enough to apply it. It can in fact ADD marks to the paint. I had used Meguiar's professional line(including Scratch X) when I first polished my car. I got maybe 30-35% of the swirls out. After using Menzerna I have no swirls, and even some of the nastier scratches came out. About 85-90% of all marks are gone. You can see from my pictures what results I have. I even took a high intensity light and placed it right up on the car to show any remaining marks.
#19
I knew that scratch x only covers it up ( like fills it in right?) and it eventually wears away but if I use a synthetic wax over the scratchx it should last at least as long if not longer than the wax right ? of course I would put carnauba wax over it because I don't like the way synthetics look but is that a good idea or not ?
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the swirl marks will not go away right away, you will need to keep up on doing a quality job with washing and waxing over time to remove the swirl marks, if you are not experienced with a buffer don't bother as it can make things worse easily. Invest in some good microfiber cloths a quality polish and some good carnauba wax.