Pics of header/intake install
07-16-2005, 12:15 AM
#1
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pics of header/intake install First of all - THANKS to everyone here who answered all my questions and threads. It all really helped. Especially the rapid responses when I broke my oil pressure sensor while installing the intake!
List of parts:
Hooker coated headers
Mufflex 4" Y-pipe
Dynomax 4" bullet muffler
16" length of scrap 4" exhaust pipe
GM header gaskets
Stage 8 locking header bolts
LS6 intake manifold
20lbs elbow grease
First is the passenger headers - can't get a much better angle, so I only took one pic
Driver headers
Closeup of the Stage 8 locking header bolts. Not necessary - but if you have a few extra bucks, it's great to never have to worry about them again.
Driver side collectors and part of the Mufflex 4" Y-pipe
Passenger side collector and part of Y-pipe
Here's the actual Flowmaster 2-into-1 merge. I was able to get that crossmember to bolt up by using a small jack to raise the assembly up a bit. I have absolutely ZERO rattles - the entire exhaust is as rigid as if it were welded to the body!
The end of the Y-pipe and the Dynomax 4" bullet muffler. I got about 16" of 4" exhaust pipe from an 18 wheeler exhaust shop (cost? - $5) and welded 8" in front and 8" behind the muffler. The hanger is hidden - it's on the very back of the end pipe, is a simple 6" long strip of steel, and bolts directly to the sheet metal that forms the rear passenger bucket seat. Also, I painted everything with VHT red brake caliper paint to inhibit rust as much as possible. As you can see, the muffler is still nice and red, while the piping is turning a blood red color (heat, I guess - though my brakes are still nice and red).
Here is how much ground clearance I actually have. Exactly 3"! Not much, but I must admit that I haven't grounded on anything yet. As you can see (hopefully you can see it), I can't raise the pipe up any further. It is already 1/4" from the floorpan. Any closer and I'm afraid of rattling.
Another picture with the car resting normally (all the others, except the above measurement, had the front raised about 16"). Not much clearance, but not bad.
View from the rear. About the only downside is that my swaybar gets D-I-R-T-Y where the exhaist hits it. But, it doesn't get hot, thank God.
It all makes it worthwhile when your exhaust, which is nice and quiet (enough to not get pulled over, at least), is this open! This is from the rear, through the muffler. Yes, that is the Flowmaster merge you're seeing. Oh, and you can see the hanger welded to the side, also.
And, finally, the new intake. Since it looks JUST like the old one, I just took a general picture of the engine with a lot less clutter.
Hope you enjoy these pictures as much as I'm enjoying the real thing. I was making 322rwhp before, I'm hoping to break the 350 mark. But, honestly, even if I was told it was 325, it still feels amazing!
Again, thanks to everyone who helped!!
List of parts:
Hooker coated headers
Mufflex 4" Y-pipe
Dynomax 4" bullet muffler
16" length of scrap 4" exhaust pipe
GM header gaskets
Stage 8 locking header bolts
LS6 intake manifold
20lbs elbow grease
First is the passenger headers - can't get a much better angle, so I only took one pic
Driver headers
Closeup of the Stage 8 locking header bolts. Not necessary - but if you have a few extra bucks, it's great to never have to worry about them again.
Driver side collectors and part of the Mufflex 4" Y-pipe
Passenger side collector and part of Y-pipe
Here's the actual Flowmaster 2-into-1 merge. I was able to get that crossmember to bolt up by using a small jack to raise the assembly up a bit. I have absolutely ZERO rattles - the entire exhaust is as rigid as if it were welded to the body!
The end of the Y-pipe and the Dynomax 4" bullet muffler. I got about 16" of 4" exhaust pipe from an 18 wheeler exhaust shop (cost? - $5) and welded 8" in front and 8" behind the muffler. The hanger is hidden - it's on the very back of the end pipe, is a simple 6" long strip of steel, and bolts directly to the sheet metal that forms the rear passenger bucket seat. Also, I painted everything with VHT red brake caliper paint to inhibit rust as much as possible. As you can see, the muffler is still nice and red, while the piping is turning a blood red color (heat, I guess - though my brakes are still nice and red).
Here is how much ground clearance I actually have. Exactly 3"! Not much, but I must admit that I haven't grounded on anything yet. As you can see (hopefully you can see it), I can't raise the pipe up any further. It is already 1/4" from the floorpan. Any closer and I'm afraid of rattling.
Another picture with the car resting normally (all the others, except the above measurement, had the front raised about 16"). Not much clearance, but not bad.
View from the rear. About the only downside is that my swaybar gets D-I-R-T-Y where the exhaist hits it. But, it doesn't get hot, thank God.
It all makes it worthwhile when your exhaust, which is nice and quiet (enough to not get pulled over, at least), is this open! This is from the rear, through the muffler. Yes, that is the Flowmaster merge you're seeing. Oh, and you can see the hanger welded to the side, also.
And, finally, the new intake. Since it looks JUST like the old one, I just took a general picture of the engine with a lot less clutter.
Hope you enjoy these pictures as much as I'm enjoying the real thing. I was making 322rwhp before, I'm hoping to break the 350 mark. But, honestly, even if I was told it was 325, it still feels amazing!
Again, thanks to everyone who helped!!
Last edited by 00 Trans Ram; 07-18-2005 at 10:05 AM.
Are you going to finish out the exhaust or is that as far as she goes? Thats got to be loud as hell. 
07-18-2005, 10:37 AM
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
niiice, i have been wanting to put just a bullet instead of my catback for a while, i cannot stand the rattles and drone and everything with the cutout and catback. how does it sound? do you know how it compares to a cutout? you got a 4" do i need a 4"? i have a pacesetter ypipe.
07-18-2005, 11:31 AM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Conan - That's the entire thing. I don't want to add any more pipe further back, as it would also add weight. About the only thing that I may have to do in the future is put a 90* bend and have it exit out the passenger side before the wheel (some racing bodies require the exhaust NOT exit under the car). As for the sound, it's not that loud during normal driving. I mean, just lazy accelleration around town should not garner any looks or police attention. However, when you give it full throttle, it gets VERY loud above 3000RPM.
Hourang - Yes, the sound is much better with the muffler. I drove for a while with just the headers and y-pipe. It was loud and somewhat raspy. The muffler cut the sound roughly in half, and made it much deeper during normal driving. Plus, I can't imagine that there would be ANY additional restriction because of the muffler. As you can see, there is nothing in the way of the air flow. But, you probably do not need 4". In fact, I don't even need that. I got it for a couple of reasons. First, I did not have a y-pipe, so I had to get something. The Hooker ones that they had were not of the best quality (some questionable welds, and the "y" merge was not optimal). Second, if I ever decide to do heads/cam, FI, or increased displacement, I will want the additional capaicty that the 4" provides. But, for a normal engine with bolt-ons, a regular 3" would be just fine.
Hourang - Yes, the sound is much better with the muffler. I drove for a while with just the headers and y-pipe. It was loud and somewhat raspy. The muffler cut the sound roughly in half, and made it much deeper during normal driving. Plus, I can't imagine that there would be ANY additional restriction because of the muffler. As you can see, there is nothing in the way of the air flow. But, you probably do not need 4". In fact, I don't even need that. I got it for a couple of reasons. First, I did not have a y-pipe, so I had to get something. The Hooker ones that they had were not of the best quality (some questionable welds, and the "y" merge was not optimal). Second, if I ever decide to do heads/cam, FI, or increased displacement, I will want the additional capaicty that the 4" provides. But, for a normal engine with bolt-ons, a regular 3" would be just fine.
07-18-2005, 11:38 AM
#7
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SporkLover
3inches of clearance? yikes!!!! Are you at stock ride height?
Trending Topics
07-19-2005, 01:41 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram
Hourang - Yes, the sound is much better with the muffler. I drove for a while with just the headers and y-pipe. It was loud and somewhat raspy. The muffler cut the sound roughly in half, and made it much deeper during normal driving. Plus, I can't imagine that there would be ANY additional restriction because of the muffler. As you can see, there is nothing in the way of the air flow. But, you probably do not need 4". In fact, I don't even need that. I got it for a couple of reasons. First, I did not have a y-pipe, so I had to get something. The Hooker ones that they had were not of the best quality (some questionable welds, and the "y" merge was not optimal). Second, if I ever decide to do heads/cam, FI, or increased displacement, I will want the additional capaicty that the 4" provides. But, for a normal engine with bolt-ons, a regular 3" would be just fine.
07-19-2005, 02:14 PM
#10
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I may be able to post some video of it next week. I've got a race this Sunday, and a guy is supposed to bring a digital camcorder. That way, you'll get to hear it under strain (while driving). I've noticed that engines sound completely different when revving in the driveway as compared to accellerating under load on the road.
07-20-2005, 02:43 AM
#12
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn...3 inches isnt very much, get used to crawling over speed bumps and angling out of almost every parking lot. but go out and have some fun with your new mods! im sure it sounds great
07-20-2005, 02:18 PM
#14
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by greatskiiiier
you should post some sound clips
