k-member, a-arm, shock, and manual rack choice help.
12-17-2005, 12:46 PM
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k-member, a-arm, shock, and manual rack choice help. im looking to shed several pounds and put some better shocks on my car.
i see that there are several producers of this stuff and im not sure which is lighter/stronger. this car will be driven about 2-3 times a week.
i already have a th350 and 4.10 gears in the car so comfort isnt a factor
on the front i know i want single adjustable and rear needs double adjustable.
im looking for:
K member
upper/lower A arms
manual steering rack
shocks front and rear
thanks,
Tyler
i see that there are several producers of this stuff and im not sure which is lighter/stronger. this car will be driven about 2-3 times a week.
i already have a th350 and 4.10 gears in the car so comfort isnt a factor
on the front i know i want single adjustable and rear needs double adjustable.
im looking for:
K member
upper/lower A arms
manual steering rack
shocks front and rear
thanks,
Tyler
12-17-2005, 12:55 PM
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K member
upper/lower A arms
manual steering rack
shocks front and rear
I run bmr kmember (buddy is a dealer so it was cheap), stock upper/lower aarms, hal qa1's in the back with the r's up front and a stenod racing manual rack.
DA's in the rear is a good idea. I will switch to some afco's probably mid season if I can't make the SA's work.
upper/lower A arms
manual steering rack
shocks front and rear
I run bmr kmember (buddy is a dealer so it was cheap), stock upper/lower aarms, hal qa1's in the back with the r's up front and a stenod racing manual rack.
DA's in the rear is a good idea. I will switch to some afco's probably mid season if I can't make the SA's work.
12-17-2005, 06:32 PM
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I have a BMR K,uppers and lowers, with a Madman rack.
I wouldn't get the upper A-arms because they are actually alittle heavier then the stock ones. (only the uppers though)
As far as the shocks go. I wouldn't be near as conserned with the rears being double adjustable as I would the fronts. On one of the cars I drive we have Afcos all the way around and I havn't touched the rear. I have them set on "hard as a mother f'er" but the fronts I am always changing around. Obviously, the longer you can keep 100% traction (wheels up or atleast completely extended) the better the 60ft will be. I have gotten that car to go a 1.37 60ft on a little ol 28-11.5-15 ET Street but it is all in the front for me.
In my car I run single QA1s in front and rear. R's in the front and it works for me also but as far as dialing in that suspension the doubles are much better. If you do get the doubles I would let someone like Madman set it up. I have had so much trial and error in the other car. I think I have them set pretty good right now but it took a season to get them that way.
I wouldn't get the upper A-arms because they are actually alittle heavier then the stock ones. (only the uppers though)
As far as the shocks go. I wouldn't be near as conserned with the rears being double adjustable as I would the fronts. On one of the cars I drive we have Afcos all the way around and I havn't touched the rear. I have them set on "hard as a mother f'er" but the fronts I am always changing around. Obviously, the longer you can keep 100% traction (wheels up or atleast completely extended) the better the 60ft will be. I have gotten that car to go a 1.37 60ft on a little ol 28-11.5-15 ET Street but it is all in the front for me.
In my car I run single QA1s in front and rear. R's in the front and it works for me also but as far as dialing in that suspension the doubles are much better. If you do get the doubles I would let someone like Madman set it up. I have had so much trial and error in the other car. I think I have them set pretty good right now but it took a season to get them that way.
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12-26-2005, 12:10 PM
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I just got my AJE racing k-member, Lower A-arms wirh tie rod ends and a steering rack along with 2" drop spindles with caster camber plates and lightweight brakes. The quality is like non ive seen. It is truly awesome and they say with street brakes they typically lose 175-200 Lbs off the front of these cars. Im doing the install as we speak so havent seen any true life improvements but the murchandise speaks for itself. Hope this helps some. The entire set-up was $3400 shipped However it would be cheaper without spindles and brakes by about $1900 but you would need shocks because they are built into the spindels and an upper A-arm since a Spindle deletes the upper A-arm. Good luck!
12-28-2005, 09:45 AM
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12-28-2005, 11:45 AM
#13
Originally Posted by 1999TransamWs6
I just got my AJE racing k-member, Lower A-arms wirh tie rod ends and a steering rack along with 2" drop spindles with caster camber plates and lightweight brakes. The quality is like non ive seen. It is truly awesome and they say with street brakes they typically lose 175-200 Lbs off the front of these cars. Im doing the install as we speak so havent seen any true life improvements but the murchandise speaks for itself. Hope this helps some. The entire set-up was $3400 shipped However it would be cheaper without spindles and brakes by about $1900 but you would need shocks because they are built into the spindels and an upper A-arm since a Spindle deletes the upper A-arm. Good luck!
I'd be intrestsed to see the setup as it is getting installed.. the weight removed, providing it's actually close to 200 lbs would get my car right to where I want it weight wise.. and no hacking of anything, which would be nice. But, I qestion the streetability of something like that... is it durable enough to drive around?? I wouldn't think it is, but I could be wrong.
Pics of the setup please!