8.8 rearend?
#1
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8.8 rearend?
who has one? or who knows where to buy a the parts to convert one to fit an f-body. and what year mustang to get it out of????
thanks in advance matt
i tried a search but nothing came up
thanks in advance matt
i tried a search but nothing came up
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Problems are; (most result from lack of experience/ignorance)
*poor weld strength from joining the two differently sized axle tubes
*Weak torque arm mounts that fail under launches (please don't weld steel to cast )
*ABS not functioning correctly
etc.
The units that were sold commercially would fail at the tube welds when power approached the 400rwhp range. Torque arm mounts were a very weak point as they were welded to the nodular steel (cast) center section.
Most of these problems can be overcome by knowledge, but there is still a plethora of alignment issues and fitment considerations to take in.
There is no 8.8" commercially being sold that fits into a fbody. I spent 3 months making the 8.8" that is in my car. It came out really nice, but it was an enormouns amount of work. Having built an 8.8" from the ground up, my recommendation is to purchase a budget 9" and not to try to build an 8.8".
P.S. This has all be discussed previously. Try a search!
Ben T.
*poor weld strength from joining the two differently sized axle tubes
*Weak torque arm mounts that fail under launches (please don't weld steel to cast )
*ABS not functioning correctly
etc.
The units that were sold commercially would fail at the tube welds when power approached the 400rwhp range. Torque arm mounts were a very weak point as they were welded to the nodular steel (cast) center section.
Most of these problems can be overcome by knowledge, but there is still a plethora of alignment issues and fitment considerations to take in.
There is no 8.8" commercially being sold that fits into a fbody. I spent 3 months making the 8.8" that is in my car. It came out really nice, but it was an enormouns amount of work. Having built an 8.8" from the ground up, my recommendation is to purchase a budget 9" and not to try to build an 8.8".
P.S. This has all be discussed previously. Try a search!
Ben T.
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Originally Posted by Studytime
I spent 3 months making the 8.8" that is in my car. It came out really nice, but it was an enormouns amount of work. Having built an 8.8" from the ground up, my recommendation is to purchase a budget 9" and not to try to build an 8.8".
Ben T.
Ben T.
LOL i think i said that exact same thing when you started building yours.
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#8
Got any pictures that work of this 8.8 rear?
I read a little bit of the discussion on that website, people were asking if you were going to sell just the t/a mount. Why didn't you go with an 8.5 GM rear?
I remember back in the early to mid 80's Gale Banks sold a kit to mount a t/a to an 8.5 to install in third gen f bodies.
I read a little bit of the discussion on that website, people were asking if you were going to sell just the t/a mount. Why didn't you go with an 8.5 GM rear?
I remember back in the early to mid 80's Gale Banks sold a kit to mount a t/a to an 8.5 to install in third gen f bodies.
Last edited by 8a8mfh; 04-25-2006 at 04:46 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by cam
FWIW the old Gale Banks t/a mount welded to the axle tubes and clamped around the cast iron center section.
#12
Originally Posted by Z95m6
If you want pics of studytimes rear go to cz28.com and search the drivetrain section.
#13
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I built my own 8.8 for my f-body and had it in for over two years now and some track time and alot of street racing about 15,000 miles on it with no problems at all with 4:30 gears and Moser axles 31 spline and as for welding tork arm mount ,I work in a fab shop and did weld mild steel to cast and held just fine just use (Nickel welding rods) or mig wire that what i used ,remove the pinion bearing races and heat up the area were your giong to weld and weld it with the nickel rod and rap it up and a none fiberglass insulation to slow down the cooling process to releave stress.
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Originally Posted by Randy WS6
I built my own 8.8 for my f-body and had it in for over two years now and some track time and alot of street racing about 15,000 miles on it with no problems at all with 4:30 gears and Moser axles 31 spline and as for welding tork arm mount ,I work in a fab shop and did weld mild steel to cast and held just fine just use (Nickel welding rods) or mig wire that what i used ,remove the pinion bearing races and heat up the area were your giong to weld and weld it with the nickel rod and rap it up and a none fiberglass insulation to slow down the cooling process to releave stress.
Glad yours held up, but I don't think it's representative of the majority of this design.
Ben T.