sstolenks

basically my plans are to build a sleeper, or as much of one as an ls1 camaro can be. its a 2000 Z auto, bone stock aside from an slp muffler in place of the 3" flowmaster catback that was there.

ive been looking at several cams
ls6
old man cam
cheaTR
stealth I
stealth II

what else is out there that is easy to tune, offers good vacuum, good street manners, stock idle and sound, good mileage and good power. im not looking to be the fastest thing out there, just quicker than stock and quicker than what everyone thinks.

i plan on adding a set of either ls6 heads and intake and just doing the whole conversion or a set of ported ls1 heads with an ls6 intake and possibly the money maker kit. for exhaust i think im going to go with a set of kooks race headers 1.75" with a catted Y and might through a bullet on to quiet it down some more with a single 3" elec cutout. im going to get just a flat black plastic lid and place the stock a/c stocker on it just a 75mm unit into a smooth bellow a descreened maf and a ported stock TB with the TB coolant bypass and FTRA. ive thought about relocating the battery to the back and using an empty display shell of a battery up front for better weight distribution also. i want to keep the stock torque convertor in it and no tranny tuning but for suspension ive got a set of weldin sfc lcs adj panhard stb and rel brackets ready to be installed

are there any other sleeper mods you can think of that might be good for this type of setup.

and does anyone have any experience with any of the cams i listed as for power, and has anyone actually heard one to know how sleeper like they really are. with the slp muffler i have now the car sounds like a v6 which is what i like. its black and im debadging it so i want people to think its a turd until i open the cutout and laydown 400rwhp and just walk away and if i have too ill spray

whats everyones thoughts, come one come all with your sleeper ideas

jermzz

iTrader: (18)

Run something under a 224 with a slpit. like a 220 / 226 something where the duration is only 6 - 8 difference from the intake to the exhaust lobes then go to Nitrous Outlet (sponsor) and get a stealth nitrous kit. Get all your bolt ons and you'll be as stealth as possible with a big bang! You wont lope, but youll put down over 500 on a 100 shot. LS1s seem to do great on nitrous with a split about that size.

Threesixes

iTrader: (5)

If youre keeping stock exhaust manifolds I vote for the CheaTR.....

fastmatt98

iTrader: (27)

Don't rule out the LPE GT2-3 cam, Awsome sleeper cam even sounds stock

calongo_SS

iTrader: (7)

2nd vote for CheaTR if you're gonna keep stock manifolds.

brady346

iTrader: (13)

Do you have a reason for keeping the stock converter? If you have reserves about longevity add a cooler, if you are concerned about driveability, take a ride in a mid range convertered car (eg. 3000-3500) because I was the same way but Sat. night I rode in another forum member's 638 rwhp car with a vig 3200 and was truly impressed by the street manners so I will go converter first. It feels just like a stock converter until you nail it. Plus, it will cut roughly .5 seconds off your runs where I have seen a cam only application cost .1 seconds with no verter. If you truly want an extremely fast car that maintains the sleeper theme, put a converter BEFORE the cam. .....or if you dont believe anything I have just told you take a ride in a cam only ride with stock gears and you will want to vomit from lack of lowend.

Bader-X

iTrader: (2)

I don`t understand how a higher stall converter acts if you race from say a 25-40 dig (if from a stop I think you can raise your launching rpm take off above 2300 wich can`t be done stock with say a 2500 or a 3000 conv) so if it`s the same car wich is better if you race a car that is as fast as you and you only change the converter to a converter in the 2400-3000 range and you race him again both races from 25 or say 50 mph who`ll be the winner?

BADSS

iTrader: (7)

TR 220/220 114 LSA cam sounded ALMOST stock in my 99 through cats (Grotyohann LT's) and a B&B Triflow catback. Somebody who doesn't know LS1's wouldn't have realized it was cammed.

I'm looking to do the same thing as you on my 02 SS, only my car is an M6.

Looking at the same cams as you are, plus:

LPE GT2-3- 207/220 117 LSA. Described as an LS6 cam "on steroids."

TR 220/220 114 LSA cam mentioned above, although not completely stealth.

Comp 212/218 either 114 LSA or 115 LSA (low lift and a higher lift version). Will have a very slight lope, probably undetectable by most people.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I think the cheaTR is probably going to give you the best numbers, but the high lift is gonna take its toll on the valve springs.

sickss228

iTrader: (27)

Yeah definatley the cheaTR cam. Some of the guys on here are running it see what they think about it. Sleepers are BADASS

sstolenks

first off, a lil background, im new to the ls1 game but not cars or even camaros. i used to have an lt1 car, heads/cam/intake/exhaust/full boltons/gears/stall/etc. fun car, fast car...but it was a pain to maintain, constantly tweaking and adjusting and it had lost all its street manners. it wasnt fun to drive or even work on anymore.

anyways, ive tried the whole stall bit and for as little as ill ever be at the track its not something im willing to deal with as a daily driver. i have a couple friends with 3500 and 4400 and everything inbetween in there modded ls1s and its just not for me. besides, most likely if im ever racing its going to be improptu and from a roll of some sort, 20, 30, 50 who knows....

as for the cheaTR cam, how reliable is it and any of the fast ramp rate cams for that matter, how much power are you lookin at producing with each cam and what kind of springs to use and spring life am i looking at. ive built several ls1 motors from the ground up for friends and even though im an engineer now, this is how i worked my way through college is as a mechanic and speed shop parts installer, the speed shop, being my own on the side business.

the whole goal with this car isnt to be the fastest but just faster than it is and faster than most without appearing or sounding even remotely quick. if i run high 11s great if i run mid 12s thats fine too, i dont care, prob wont even take it to the track. i just want something relieable, fun, and modest to play with without having to tweal on it all the damn time like the LT1.

ps, i left off that its a TCS 2.73 car with a tape deck lol. cloth interior the whole slow look 9 yds. she could honestly pass for a v6 with dual exhaust tips. on that note, 3.42s are goin in and a drive shaft safety loop too along with the list above, stock gunmetal zo6 wheels and tires and brake all around also.

anyways, these are just the plans

now lets hear of some good places to hide switches for nitrous, ecutouts and other fun toys, like i said im new to the ls1 game so fill me in on what mods work and what dont and how to be stealthy about all these mods.

help me build the ultimate ls1 fbody sleeper

eamador11

I agree

sstolenks

what kind of power and longevity does the cheaTR cam offer through manifolds

how audible is it and what about through a set of kooks...power and sound ????

everyone sounds like they are all on the cheaTR bandwagon, whats so great about this cam????

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

I woulda said get a formula change all the badges to firebird ) and do your above plans ) hehe

That would be funny.

TLKSCHP

I wish you would have drove my car before it broke. I promise you my pt2400 stall felt stock. I stongly believe in gears and mild to small stall on the street. As for tunning we can add your car to my EFI cable no problem. If your going to run a small cam I'm not sure I would worry about the heads, just upgrade the springs. Look at my car 12.3's with a stock 98 ls1 engine and it had more room to go since it's running a mostly stock tune.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Thing about the CheaTR is the fast ramp rate and high lift on the intake lobe really requires dual valvesprings ... you may be cool with that, but just FYI. The other factor is that the power peak is pretty high - to get the most out of it you'd probably want to shift at about 6500, which is said to negatively affect the longevity of the A4.

Dip Stick

iTrader: (1)

Shrugs. As for teh mod plan, just watch about putting out more power than you can safely hook up with the stock rear. Unless I misread the post and you plan on upgrading it.

Definitely sounds like a fun deal, too bad you arent someone's gran mother doing this build, then it would be hilarious

Geoff

iTrader: (3)

With a good set of double valvesprings it will last a VERY long time. I have over 35,000 miles on the same set of springs in my truck using the same intake lobe as on the CheaTR cam.

Hemi Killer

iTrader: (6)

Don't forget the LS6 intake!

Threesixes

iTrader: (5)

My CheaTR with patriot heads is putting down 388 rwhp through stock manifolds, Ive seen others with over 400 rwhp with this cam and stock manifolds. Still more HP with the addition of headers.

The exahaust sounds completely stock on my car with that cam.

Hopefully Ill have track times by this saturday.........