98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

Well im wanting to be safe about swapping these springs and i had a quick question. I've got the Crane Valve spring tool and I am using the air fitting into the spark plug hole to hold the valve. I also have the intake off of the car while doing this, and notice as soon as i start to compress the spring all the air runnng through is coming right out of the first port hole on the head. Now my question is,...is that right? or is somethin up? Should I have to have my intake on while swapping the springs?

MightyBobo

iTrader: (12)

You arent lining up the valve through the hole properly, most likely. So, when you compress the spring, one of the springs coils, or the retainer itself, is catching the top of the valve and pushing it down with the spring. Opens the valve, air comes out. My buddy's face got shot with compressed air through the intake manifold because of that haha. Either that, or you arent putting the compressed air into the proper spark plug hole...but, I will go with the 1st reason over that.

Small edit: Is this happening when you're trying to swap the old springs OUT? The ones already installed? Or putting the new ones on?

Jordan S.

iTrader: (17)

Am I going to have to come over there and show you how to do it.

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

yes,.....This is happening while im trying to get the old ones out.

MightyBobo

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm...in THAT case, it sounds like you arent getting enough pressure to hold the valves up, not that it needs THAT much...

Unless your tool is hitting the top of the valve stem, and is pushing the valve stem with it? I had no problems with mine, just had a really simple tool one of my friends in the area made with a bolt and some 1/4" steel with a hole in it lol. Worked fantastic.

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, its not on the stem, I may just not be getting enough pressure. Maybe I just need to get that "Jordan S." cat to come fix his screw up of puttin that fitting into that hole and me not being able to tighten or loosen it now.

MightyBobo

iTrader: (12)

If its not compressing the stem, then it sounds like you just arent getting enough pressure holding the valve up. You can always use the Top Dead Center method, too...that'd work.

98LS-WON

Forget the air and just put the piston at TDC. Your valves wont drop more than .050' if you're near TDC.

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

yeah I may end up just doing both, TDC is definitely crossing my mind right now though for sure, I just dont know, i want the most reliable way and the simplest at the same time,...then i want the sh*t to work for me

98LS-WON

Def go with TDC. I've never done it, but I know guys that have hit the valve putting the springs on and had it drop into the cylinder. Granted that was on an aircraft engine so these might not fall all the way in, but i guess its still a possibility if you lose the pressure in the cylider.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

TDC !!! PERIOD !
Get a $10 piston stop (spark plug type), remove spark plug from the #1 cylinder and install the stop...That's you'r TDC...from there follow ls1howto procedure on swapping the 2 cylinders at a time... EASY and ERROR-PROOF !

Compressor is messy....

ThePizzaGTP

This could be a stupid question, but your rockers are off, right? I swapped rockers/VS/PR's on a GTP, and during a brief moment of stupidity, I put the air-hold tool on before I took the rockers off, and obviously the valves were open - same thing you're talkin about.

TDC is def. the way to go, but if you take your time, the air-hold tool works good, too. Just don't whack the valve when you're putting the spring on, and tap the end of the valve once you take the spring compressor off to make sure the locks are seated fully.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

You can put the piston at TDC on the compression stoke and still use air to hold up the valves. Just don't use too little air or too much. 40 or 50 lbs. If you use too much with all the plugs out you can end up spinning the crank. You better be damn sure you know how to use that tool properly meaning you have it centered and square over BOTH valves or you might end up breaking off that rocker bolt and then you are in over your head.

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

I beleive it would be pretty tough to break a rocker bolt using the Crane Cams tool with how it works but we'll see i guess. And yeah i started to use the TDC method and lined the timing chain dots up to do cyc. 1 and 6 and i guess had to much pressure b/c the crank spun over ....so i'll see what i can do tonight and put it to 45lbs rather than 75 and see what happens.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Just keep the tool straight and square the whole time pressure it applied and apply the pressure slowly. Don't slam the lever down to compress the springs. If you take your time it can be done right. It's when people get in a rush or lack experience that they have to learn the lesson the hard way and that's what you want to avoid. Learn from the mistakes of others. If you read Internal Engines long enough you find plenty of threads on broken bolts and stripped threads and some even go so far as to break off the screw extractor inside of the bolt they had already broken off. That's when they're in real trouble. Even Lucy didn't screw up that bad. If she had Ricky would have killled her.

ThirdGenLS1

iTrader: (11)

i had the same problem, the retainer is just sticking and pushing down the valve while your compressing the spring. I just grabbed a long extention and a bugger mellat, gave the hop of the retainer a quick hit and that should do it.

I got that off of LS1howto.com in there cam swap part.

Justin

98REDZ

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, all got taken care of and they are swapped and ready to go! THanks for all the help!

daryl2cb@yahoo.com

iTrader: (2)

Another vote for TDC method the only way to go.