2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

It seems like every time I have something done to my car, or I do something to my car it always gets F*CKED up . With the header install we took out the air pump, exhaust manifold, y pipe, dip stick, wires, and 7 & 1/2 plugs . The infamous #8 plug bent me over and drilled me hard. It broke off after the bolt, so now there is nothing to hold on to the plug to get it out . I am lost at what to do with this now . Any suggestions besides removing the head? Any help would be appreciated. This is what I feel like doing.

conan

iTrader: (5)

So just the thread part of the plug is in the head?? With it being the #8 Your probly going to have to pull the head. When putting the new plugs in put some hi temp antiseze on the threads.

leftcoast32

iTrader: (4)

You should be able to fish the ceramic out of the center of the threads. Then insert an easy out into the hole and back it out slowly. So long as you get the center ceramic out and insure you have all of it you should have no problem. You can also vacuum the cylinder out to make sure nothing is left in there. Go and rent a scope to double check everything when you are done.

mrhzk35404

iTrader: (7)

I have to ask. How the F did you do this?

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

What do you mean by fish out the ceramic of center of the threads? How do I do this?


Not really sure how this happened, I was un-hooking the bolt on the manifold when my friend said the plug was turning, but not coming out, and then 1/2 the plug came out.

SiRgReg23

next time get on that plug from underneath the car its way easy that wat

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

We were underneath the car

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I don't know how you'll fix it without removing the head. Might it be time for a nice set of aftermarket heads?

Raise

iTrader: (31)

cant think of a better time

Pnsh3r

it is easy... get the dullest, thickets flat tip that you can find.... Hammer it into the ceramic part of the broken spark plug. Reason why you are using a dull flat tip is so that it would not cut in there & crack the plug. You will feel the ceramic part fall in & get loose. It won't fall all the way in because of the top that goes over the electrode. Once you feel like you got it nice and loose, disconnect the main wires going to your coil packs, and pull your fuel relay, stand clear and turn the engine over a couple of times. Cylinder pressure will shoot it out. Now, all you have to do is use a right size bolt extractor and pull out the threads. Also, take a long piece of hose small enough to fit through the spark plug hole, tape it into your vacuume cleaner with minimal leaks. Now you have super skinny vacuume cleaner hose.. insert that into the cylinder & move it all around - just as a precaution.
Insert a new plug and move on with your life

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

I need mor help on this issue. PLEASE

emerica4601

iTrader: (5)

i just broke my rear passenger side header bolt earlier today during my header install. it sucks horrible. i was soooo pissed. ive done everything to avoid this problem, ive sprayed every bolt about 5 times within 2 days with pb blaster. i mean i SOAKED them.

i think if i just put a lot of gasket sealer around the last port then it should be fine. that much compression on the sealer and copper gasket i got should be good enough where no air gets through

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

He broke a spark plug, not a bolt.


If the ceramic inside the threaded region can be removed, you can use an ease-out to remove the piece. I'd be willing to bet a few dollars that the manifold smashed into it while you were pulling it out.

Have you ever used an ease-out before?

Keep track of all the pieces that came out, if you're missing any, there's a chance it might be in the cylinder. If you're willing, the best thing to do is to remove the whole head, but this might not be necessary.

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

I have the correct easy out to pull the threads out, but I cannot seem to break the ceramic out. I have tried all of the suggestions that I have come across and nothing has worked. If I can get the ceramic out, I know that I can get the threads out.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

Since it's the part right below the hex-nut section that seats and causes it to get "tight", it should not need that much torque to unscrew it.

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

I don't understand

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

What I'm saying is that if the hex nut, and the seating surface broke off, it should not take much to unscrew it. Maby you can just grab it and unscrew it fairly easy with a set of needlenose pliars or something.

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

I see. I tried that, but it did not work. I also tried a bolt extractor, but there was not enough metal to grab onto to remove it. I just bought a 3/8" air rachet and I am going to try to use that with a drill bit or something like that to break the ceramic inside the plug. Do you think that would work?The ceramic is loose in the plug, but I cannot get it to come out.

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

This **** happen to me twice. The first time I just took a shopvac and suck all the brocken stuff out, Then I took a shallow well socket and shaved the outer part of it to fit in the hole. Then took a 4in ext put it in the socket when took a small pair of needle nose vicegrips and turnd real slow. And for the headers **** I cross threaded two of them using the shitty bolts they send with the headers. My temp fix was i used the washers that came with the headers (1) and the stock bolts and no leaks.

2002ssls1

iTrader: (3)

Tonight we finally got all of the ceramic out of the plug. We soaked the threads in Pb Blaster and will attempt to get them out tomorrow. My hopes are really up now.