Stall for my 396?
06-20-2006, 10:35 PM
#1
Stall for my 396? 
Well the engine has arrived at the builder!!!! 
Now its time to order some parts, i had a 3200 stall on her for a 383 which is now pending sale. I have a few ideas on what size i would like to go with.
Here ARE my limits:
*Streetability
*Strip
*There will be a small shot of Juice in the future, for now i want an N/A stall.
*And i dont care if its loose, my 3200 was a **** loose!! I like it.
I sent fuddle a request form and they said 3000 for my stall, thats way to low.
I was thinking a Fuddle 3600/3800 or even a Yank.
I dont know if 3800 is to big for Daily Driving, i shouldnt be driving to far and the lockup will most likely be around 40.
Thanks.
06-21-2006, 07:23 AM
#3
Put it on a dyno with a stock stall. See where your torque peak is and then decide what stall. Most people usually build a stall about 15 % lower than the torque peak. For nitrous you want to even tighten up a little more. So say if your torque peak is 4800 rpms.............a 4000 stall for n/a and about a 3800 for nitrous would work well. This is kinda the rule of thumb but every car can respond a little different.
06-21-2006, 07:16 PM
#4
I am nothing but happy with my 3400 Edge racing converter, my car pulls harder at idle than my wife's STOCK '03 Impala. If you go with a GOOD converter you can have a 2800+ stall and great drivability together.
www.edgeracingconverters.com if you give him a chance Andre will treat you well. Edge has a BIG following on the b-body side of the LT1 our weight means a lot of abuse on the whole drivetrain too so these are proven strong.
www.edgeracingconverters.com if you give him a chance Andre will treat you well. Edge has a BIG following on the b-body side of the LT1 our weight means a lot of abuse on the whole drivetrain too so these are proven strong.
06-21-2006, 08:17 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Put it on a dyno with a stock stall. See where your torque peak is and then decide what stall. Most people usually build a stall about 15 % lower than the torque peak. For nitrous you want to even tighten up a little more. So say if your torque peak is 4800 rpms.............a 4000 stall for n/a and about a 3800 for nitrous would work well. This is kinda the rule of thumb but every car can respond a little different.
06-21-2006, 08:27 PM
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High stall problem effected OBD-1's. Dont fear the stall. Alot of guys here are running big stalls and loving it. Go to small and youll regret it inside. Get what's best for your application but dont let fear decide for you.
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06-21-2006, 10:08 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Put it on a dyno with a stock stall. See where your torque peak is and then decide what stall. Most people usually build a stall about 15 % lower than the torque peak. For nitrous you want to even tighten up a little more. So say if your torque peak is 4800 rpms.............a 4000 stall for n/a and about a 3800 for nitrous would work well. This is kinda the rule of thumb but every car can respond a little different.
06-22-2006, 03:28 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Tony Shepherd
Put it on a dyno with a stock stall. See where your torque peak is and then decide what stall. Most people usually build a stall about 15 % lower than the torque peak. For nitrous you want to even tighten up a little more. So say if your torque peak is 4800 rpms.............a 4000 stall for n/a and about a 3800 for nitrous would work well. This is kinda the rule of thumb but every car can respond a little different.
06-22-2006, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by infinitebird
problem with that is that the LT1 usually makes peak torque very low, like 2500-2800. So if you go by that, you will have a really small stall.
06-22-2006, 07:13 AM
#13
Originally Posted by infinitebird
problem with that is that the LT1 usually makes peak torque very low, like 2500-2800. So if you go by that, you will have a really small stall.
Who told you that? 90% of all the LT1's I have tuned and built over all these year the torque peak is between 3800-4800 rpms. This varies due to cam selection and heads. Let me see your dyno graph. I may can believe that if it is a bone stock engine.
06-22-2006, 05:17 PM
#14
Yeah I guess it would be higher on built engines. Most of the stockish graphs I've seen it's on the low side (around 2500).
ex: http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm
ex: http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm
06-22-2006, 06:15 PM
#15
Originally Posted by infinitebird
Yeah I guess it would be higher on built engines. Most of the stockish graphs I've seen it's on the low side (around 2500).
ex: http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm
ex: http://ws6.com/mod-1.htm
.Converters are all dependant on the guy specing the internal parts, there is a lot more too it than just the stall we all get hung up on. Much like there is MUCH more to cams than just the lift or duration everyone speaks of.
06-22-2006, 06:27 PM
#17
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lol. I told you that the very first time you made a post like this and you ignored me. lol anyways, good luck. I'm going through the same things you are right now trying to pick the right stuff for my combo. Starts to get stressfull after a while.