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portercable pros, inside please..

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Old 07-24-2006, 02:55 PM
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Default portercable pros, inside please..

hey guys, just got my porter cable and menzerna package, and I figured I would start on my dads car(in case I screw up )..anyways, this is just one pass on the rear quarter of his car,(it is in HORRIBLE shape paint wise, just sits in his garage and hasnt been waxed in years). Anyways my question is, I seem to have some buffer wheel marks on the paint..What did I do wrong, and how do I correct it to make them go away.
I am using the orange pad with IP, set to 6, figure 8 pattern side to side, then up and down, until the product almost dries. Then rubbed it off with microfiber and 50/50 water/alcohol mix. then drank some of the alcohol. I know it is me, and not the product, so help would be appreciated.
Thanks..
Old 07-24-2006, 03:37 PM
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I would step down the speed to about 4 or 4.5 until you've had a chance to get more experience with it. I know several people use 6 to remove swirls and scratches, but on a car with good existing paint, I don't think you need to go that fast.

Also, is that car clear coated? It's kind of hard to tell from that picture.
Remember, the polisher is designed to remove clearcoat down to the level (or just below) the scratch, so if there isn't much clearcoat to begin with, you might start hitting base coat soon.


-Mike
Old 07-24-2006, 03:50 PM
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Looking at the pic, turn down to 4.5 or 5 tops. Make sure you have enough product on the pad. I think your main issue is that you are performing uneven strokes. You dont need to apply hard pressure when doing this and you should do your best to follow the flow of the fender in long strokes. I usually run the buffer one way in overlapping strokes and then the other way (im talking about horizontal, vertical and then horizontal again) It just looks like you were uneven with the way you went over the car. Give it a shot.

-Brian
Old 07-24-2006, 04:20 PM
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thanks alot guys, I will give it a shot.
Old 07-24-2006, 05:08 PM
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Fellas, he may need to step down his abrasion. nasty99, follow up the IP with FP and you should be fine.

ADD: Also, step down the cut of your pad when you use FP. Anything blue or below will be perfect for the finish.
Old 07-24-2006, 05:48 PM
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ok guys, I stepped down to 4, and went over it nice and steady, with light pressure, still doing the same thing. The car is a 66 barracuda, no clear coat. could that be why? fp with a white paid is next^^^^..
Old 07-24-2006, 06:06 PM
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I think the lack of a clear coat is probably why you're seeing some marring. The good news is, steeping down to the Final Polish 2 and a white pad should help remove the buffer marks. Remember, use the least abrasive polish/pad combo to remove the imperfection. I usually do a walk around the car with a stack of mini Post-It notes to "mark" the spots that might be trouble (deep scratches, lots of swirls, etc.). I'll hit those areas with FP2/white pad and look them over again from various angles. My rule of thumb is: if two passes with FP2 can't resolve the problem, break out the orange pad and the IP and hit it with that.


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Old 07-24-2006, 07:57 PM
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thanks chup, I'll give it a try tomorrow.
Old 07-25-2006, 02:14 PM
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Stop now before you do some real damage. You're using the wrong products for the surface. From what I see in that pic, nothing is going to help that other than a repaint. There is a ton of fish eye in the paint. I'd advise a hand wet sanding, a coat of paint, and a couple coats of clear to get that mess of a paint job straightened out. Remember, you can't polish a turd!



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