2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

b1 cam here. i got 375 before tuning. almost 388 after tuning. but keep in mind it peaks at 6300, so you will have to raise rev limiter to take full advantage of it. i think the t1 peaks ever so slightly sooner.

Mr. B

iTrader: (1)

MTI cams are $449.00.. however:

www.ls1speed.com has the $379.99 generic "hammer cam" from Comp Cams:

"Excellent powerband, works well with or without ported heads, expect mid-high 11's with headers, tuning and good heads."

Dur 222/222 Lift: 563/563 LSA: 112 or 114

That's $70.00 to apply to 918's springs. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

niphilli

Great Site. LOL at the ricers beware statement. I knew I would have a lot of B1/T1 advocates.

AFTICA

iTrader: (8)

I just installed a B1 in my 98 A4. Don't have any track or dyno #'s yet,but can comment in other areas.The A4's idle at 550 in gear which the B1 doesn't seem to like. I just got LS1 Edit to raise the idle & other misc items.Also I think the limiter will need to be raised to take full advantage of it's power band. What I really like about my B1 is that valvetrain noise is virtually non-existant. This seems to be a real problem with some of the TR cams & cams with XE-R lobes. Lots of people saying thier cars sound like sewing machines!

gomer

iTrader: (13)

I have been staying awake at night trying to make the same decision on which cam to pick for my 2002. I started out with an almost identical list of cams that I was considering. I have narrowed it down considerably and my final decision will be made when I see how much income tax refund I get back! If I get enough, I will use the T1 ( for the earlier power peak ) with 918 springs and hardened pushrods with an LS1 edit dyno tune performed. If I get screwed on my taxes this year and don't get the money I want, I am going to go with a 2002 LS6 cam with the LS6 springs and tune it myself with my MAFT and Auto tap that I already have. The LS6 cam "kit" is alot cheaper and I can get the A/F pretty close on it with just a MAFT. I think that I'll be giving up somewhere around 20hp over the Tuned T1, but .... I can have a good power gain for minimum cash outlay. What do you think?

Raughammer

Hammer cam OWNs in street/ track situations.... on stock heads.

Ask around. For streetability and fun and ease of tuning. It's hard to beat.

LOTS of folks have been more than happy with it.

Good luck

Biochem

I have to consider the yearly emmissions check, so I am leaning more towards the B1 vs. the T1... but I'd go with the Hammer cam on a 114 if I knew it would pass the sniffer.

niphilli

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gomer:
<strong> The LS6 cam "kit" is alot cheaper and I can get the A/F pretty close on it with just a MAFT. I think that I'll be giving up somewhere around 20hp over the Tuned T1, but .... I can have a good power gain for minimum cash outlay. What do you think? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">hey man, we think alike. I am thinking the 02 Z06 cam will be good for 370-380 and the T1 good for 385-395 tuned with all of the bolt-ons (Speculation) To be honest on the street the Z06 would probably be more than enough. The only strike I have against the Z cam is it will not make the cool noises that the T-1 will
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> . Keep me posted.

niphilli

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Raughammer:
<strong> Hammer cam OWNs in street/ track situations.... on stock heads.

Ask around. For streetability and fun and ease of tuning. It's hard to beat.

LOTS of folks have been more than happy with it.

Good luck </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for chiming in Raugh, I was hoping you would so I could thank you for your helpful cam database
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> . Whadya think about 112vs 114 considering my requirements? Any more significant Valvetrain wear over B1/T1??

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

I seriously doubt you will get almost 400 to the wheels with a T1 cam and stock heads and just a few bolt ons. If it were that easy everybody would have 400 to the wheels. Be realistic.

niphilli

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by NearFuture LS1 Owner:
<strong> I seriously doubt you will get almost 400 to the wheels with a T1 cam and stock heads and just a few bolt ons. If it were that easy everybody would have 400 to the wheels. Be realistic. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Do a search buddy. Since Edit came out 385 RWHP has been a pretty common stock headed number with full bolt-ons and a healthy cam.

I went 330/337 with the stock Intake and Pulley. I think I can get 50 RW from a Holley intake and decent cam <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> .

JPR

My 2c worth,

I have installed several 224/114 cams with stock heads and in auto's or M6's they make great power and excellent driveability, no surge/roll I would look into programming or a good edit tune session with any of the cams listed above to ensure your idle and all around driveability will be great.

Joe.

niphilli

Thanks Joe! Do you guys have your own Grind 224 or are you using TRs? Wanna comment on the TR valvetrain stress?

Car will most definately be LS-1 edited, and fully bolted on <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> (Except for pulley probably).

You guys think the Stock Fuel system will be ok? 2MuchPWR I know you said you changed the Fuel Pump. You think I will be ok with my stock injectors/Fuel pump ('99)?

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

I totally agree with Joe Prince. The Thunder 224 114lsa cam was my favorite cam for a street/strip car. There is hardly any surge or idle problems and it makes excellent power. It went 11.50@121 with stock heads and 4:30s in my car.

Jason

2MCHPWR

iTrader: (10)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by niphilli:
<strong> You guys think the Stock Fuel system will be ok? 2MuchPWR I know you said you changed the Fuel Pump. You think I will be ok with my stock injectors/Fuel pump ('99)? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">hi dude, i had to change the fuel pump because my stock one wasn't keeping up; i was going lean and fuel pressure really nose dived. so i replaced it with a stock pump and all is good now. my injector pulse width is pretty high, because the 99's have the lowest rated injectors compared to other years. if i ever do heads, i will upgrade the injectors first (pump second if necessary; don't really know yet).

niphilli

Right now I am leaning toward saying that the B1/T1 grinds as the perfect "street-strip" cam on stock heads (M6):

These are the requirements that I have put together for my street/strip cam. By "Street-Strip" I mean a car that does very well in ALL street situations. AKA not Fireball's definition of streetable <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> .

1. "Good" idle with tuning, no surging or dash rattling (112-114 LSA?).

2. Good peak HP with STOCK Rev-Limit.

3. Relatively easy on Valvetrain (At least 50K worry free miles on Comp 918s or the like)

4. No loss of Low-End torque (Dont really care about any gain there either)

These are the cams I started with:

MTI "T1" 221/221 .558 .558 on 112

MTI "B1" 221/221 .558 .558 on 114

TR 224 224/224 .561 .561 on 112 (I think)

TR 220 220/220 .553 .553 on 114

"Hotcam" 218/227 .525 .525 on 112

LPE GT1 218/229 .560 .560 on 113

"Hammer" 222/222 .563 .563 on 112 or 114

Comp 212/218 .522 .529 on 114

'02 LS-6 204/218 .550 .550 on 117.5

I think I have eliminated the TR cams because of the valvetrain wear constraint ( unless u proove me wrong).

My "Perfect Street/Strip setup" Is also going to consist of FLP LTs with cats, a 3.73 rear, Ram VDS 910 Clutch, and all the typical "Boltons" Hope to Dyno 380/370 SAE.

Right now I am leaning toward the B1 or T1, tell me what you think. Feel free to add/ Delete from the list!

TIA <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

-Nick

JPR

Sorry about forgeting to mention Thunder Racing <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" /> alot of people know that there our offical parts supplier for JPR Inc. They definately know how to treat customers and speed shops alike and develop excellent products. Now the TR 224 lobes are quite agressive and will require a good set of springs, our choice of springs are the Isky 295D's, we have never had an issue to date using them.

Joe.

niphilli

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Jason99T/A:
<strong> I totally agree with Joe Prince. The Thunder 224 114lsa cam was my favorite cam for a street/strip car. There is hardly any surge or idle problems and it makes excellent power. It went 11.50@121 with stock heads and 4:30s in my car.

Jason </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I knew that your car was flying with this cam and stock heads. I know that as far as power is concerned the TR 224 is the way to go, but I am worried about the valvetrain. I do not want to replace valvesprings every 20K and I definately dont want to worry about breaking a spring on cold startup. Does anyone disagree when I say the the TR cams will be significantly harder on valvetrain than the others listed?

CHRISPY

XE-r based cam on 114LSA and duration in the 220-224 range (Depending on advance/retard ground in) and lift at .581 will work great with 981 springs and make tons of power.

222/222 114LSA -2 degrees retarded will make peak power around 6300rpm and have the same cylinder filling on the intake side as a 230/230 112LSA cam with 0 advance.

I think a 220/220 XE-R cam on 115LSA and .581 lift would make mad power, be emissions legal and idle like stock.

notfastenough

Biochem- do they do emisions checks on cars down thier in N.C.? i ask because my brother is gonna go to UTI tech school down there, and i know that he dosn't have cats on his car.
thanks
good luck with your car bro!!!