Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

I just bought an LS6 Intake to stick in my car from a guy locally here and he said that i didn't need anything else to install it because he included the TB gasket and the LS1 gaskets can be taken out and reused on the LS6. Then I went to LS1HowTo.com to see how to do it, and on there they are talking about having to change the coolant lines, or the PCV or something, I don't remember. So what is actually necessary? Do I need to get some more stuff before I start isntalling this thing?

Thanks

99Transamls1

iTrader: (14)

Yeah I you have to change your coolant lines because the ls6 intake bottom doesn't give it enough room like the ls1 did.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

actually this guy is partly right, they ribs on the bottom of the ls6 intake can be trimmed down and ls1 lines can be falttened a bit, enough to clear. also I wouldnt recommend re-using the gaskets just get new ones for piece of mind

SladeX

most of the fins have to be grounded down flat if you keep the LS1 coolant lines, there is about 1.1cm of height for the lines AND knock sensor wires and installed is around 1.1cm of height.

Last thing you want to happen is for the knock sensor wire to rub till it's ground down and it grounds itself on the engine.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

I think I'll be ok with the gaskets. The car only has 23k miles on it. I could be wrong though.

So you're saying I can just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and the lines should be fine to fit? I think I'll do that. What do you recommend using to grind it down?

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

well you were warned. The biggest problems in doing a intake swap are air leaks through the gasket.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

I know, I realise that, but I want to get this done today or tomorrow, while I'm still on Thanksgiving break, so I don't have much of a choice. If it leaks I'll just have to not drive it for a while until I get new gaskets to put in.

But the grinding the bottom of the LS6 is ok then? If not I might as well get the gaskets too cause I'll have to wait for the tubes and stuff anyway, but if it is then I hope I can get it done tonight. I'm going to be putting a catch can in, debaffling and sealing my hood, and doing the trottle body bypass tonight too.

Anyway, my main question now is, is the grinding of the bottom of the LS6 ok to do, and is it safe/ok for the car?

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

its been done before time and time again but id jsut get the ls6 coolant tubes

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

You're probably going to break your oil pressure sending unit. Most people do, just figure that you will.

whs

I recently replaced the knock sensors in my 99 Trans Am and swapped the LS1 intake for an LS6 intake, using a dremel tool to get rid of the ribs on the bottom of the LS6 intake in order to clear the coolant lines.

The car had 113,000 miles on it and comparing the gaskets between the 2 intakes showed that the old ones were compresssed and flattened compared to the new ones. The only gasket that appeared to be close to reuseable was the throttlebody gasket.

I suppose you could have get creative and remove them, put some silicone in the grooves on the intake, turn them around and put them back in, but why risk a leak? It took a little bit of time to remove the bolts, chase down an oil pressure sensor and put the whole mess back together. I certainly didn't feel like doing this again later, which is why I swapped intakes and replaced both knock sensors.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

I used my stock LS1 coolant tubes with my FAST intake. I don't know if the bottom is like an LS6, but I just flattened them out gently with a dead blow.

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

This works, as does cutting/crimping/welding the stockers. I'd cut the "plugs" back a little farther, and bend them down before the install too. Did this for a friend, saved him a little cash.



I also installed it for him, and sold it to him cheap. Saved him a ton of cash.

SladeX

If you have a dremel, the grinding of the fins goes by fairly quickly.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

It's an hour job. Just wait until you have the parts. The cooling lines are $30. Also get a friend to help guide you over the oil pressure sending unit so you don't break it off.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Ok, well I have it installed now. Everything went perfectly fine. I used a grinding wheel on our drill and a little rotozip type thing. It barely had to push down the coolant lines at all, maybe 1/16"-1/8" at the most. I looked at my gaskets and they looked pretty good still, a little flattened, but not too bad, so I reused them(since I had the time crunch before I went back to school). I never even saw the oil pressure sending unit, and I'm not even sure where it is, but I'm 99% sure I didn't break it because the car started up perfectly and ran perfect and has been ever since the weekend when I installed the stuff. So I'm pretty sure everything went just fine. Now I just have to wait till next spring to see if i get into the 12's with them... I was close before, with a 13.15, so I'm hoping...

NassyVette

iTrader: (22)

It hasn't been mentioned yet but retaining the stock LS1 cooling lines is supposed to help prevent #7 from going lean. All the more reason to keep the LS1 "front to back" style lines.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Well thats good to hear. Everyone has just been telling me what I've been doing is wrong, or there is a better way, so thanks . Tha makes me feel a little better.