LS1 to LS6 Question
#1
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From: Lafayette/West Lafayette, IN
LS1 to LS6 Question
I just bought an LS6 Intake to stick in my car from a guy locally here and he said that i didn't need anything else to install it because he included the TB gasket and the LS1 gaskets can be taken out and reused on the LS6. Then I went to LS1HowTo.com to see how to do it, and on there they are talking about having to change the coolant lines, or the PCV or something, I don't remember. So what is actually necessary? Do I need to get some more stuff before I start isntalling this thing?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Originally Posted by 99Transamls1
Yeah I you have to change your coolant lines because the ls6 intake bottom doesn't give it enough room like the ls1 did.
actually this guy is partly right, they ribs on the bottom of the ls6 intake can be trimmed down and ls1 lines can be falttened a bit, enough to clear. also I wouldnt recommend re-using the gaskets just get new ones for piece of mind
#4
most of the fins have to be grounded down flat if you keep the LS1 coolant lines, there is about 1.1cm of height for the lines AND knock sensor wires and installed is around 1.1cm of height.
Last thing you want to happen is for the knock sensor wire to rub till it's ground down and it grounds itself on the engine.
Last thing you want to happen is for the knock sensor wire to rub till it's ground down and it grounds itself on the engine.
#5
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I think I'll be ok with the gaskets. The car only has 23k miles on it. I could be wrong though.
So you're saying I can just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and the lines should be fine to fit? I think I'll do that. What do you recommend using to grind it down?
So you're saying I can just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and the lines should be fine to fit? I think I'll do that. What do you recommend using to grind it down?
#6
Originally Posted by Speedmonster185
I think I'll be ok with the gaskets. The car only has 23k miles on it. I could be wrong though.
So you're saying I can just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and the lines should be fine to fit? I think I'll do that. What do you recommend using to grind it down?
So you're saying I can just grind the ribs off the bottom of the intake and the lines should be fine to fit? I think I'll do that. What do you recommend using to grind it down?
#7
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I know, I realise that, but I want to get this done today or tomorrow, while I'm still on Thanksgiving break, so I don't have much of a choice. If it leaks I'll just have to not drive it for a while until I get new gaskets to put in.
But the grinding the bottom of the LS6 is ok then? If not I might as well get the gaskets too cause I'll have to wait for the tubes and stuff anyway, but if it is then I hope I can get it done tonight. I'm going to be putting a catch can in, debaffling and sealing my hood, and doing the trottle body bypass tonight too.
Anyway, my main question now is, is the grinding of the bottom of the LS6 ok to do, and is it safe/ok for the car?
But the grinding the bottom of the LS6 is ok then? If not I might as well get the gaskets too cause I'll have to wait for the tubes and stuff anyway, but if it is then I hope I can get it done tonight. I'm going to be putting a catch can in, debaffling and sealing my hood, and doing the trottle body bypass tonight too.
Anyway, my main question now is, is the grinding of the bottom of the LS6 ok to do, and is it safe/ok for the car?
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#10
I recently replaced the knock sensors in my 99 Trans Am and swapped the LS1 intake for an LS6 intake, using a dremel tool to get rid of the ribs on the bottom of the LS6 intake in order to clear the coolant lines.
The car had 113,000 miles on it and comparing the gaskets between the 2 intakes showed that the old ones were compresssed and flattened compared to the new ones. The only gasket that appeared to be close to reuseable was the throttlebody gasket.
I suppose you could have get creative and remove them, put some silicone in the grooves on the intake, turn them around and put them back in, but why risk a leak? It took a little bit of time to remove the bolts, chase down an oil pressure sensor and put the whole mess back together. I certainly didn't feel like doing this again later, which is why I swapped intakes and replaced both knock sensors.
The car had 113,000 miles on it and comparing the gaskets between the 2 intakes showed that the old ones were compresssed and flattened compared to the new ones. The only gasket that appeared to be close to reuseable was the throttlebody gasket.
I suppose you could have get creative and remove them, put some silicone in the grooves on the intake, turn them around and put them back in, but why risk a leak? It took a little bit of time to remove the bolts, chase down an oil pressure sensor and put the whole mess back together. I certainly didn't feel like doing this again later, which is why I swapped intakes and replaced both knock sensors.
#12
Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I used my stock LS1 coolant tubes with my FAST intake. I don't know if the bottom is like an LS6, but I just flattened them out gently with a dead blow.
I also installed it for him, and sold it to him cheap. Saved him a ton of cash.
#15
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Ok, well I have it installed now. Everything went perfectly fine. I used a grinding wheel on our drill and a little rotozip type thing. It barely had to push down the coolant lines at all, maybe 1/16"-1/8" at the most. I looked at my gaskets and they looked pretty good still, a little flattened, but not too bad, so I reused them(since I had the time crunch before I went back to school). I never even saw the oil pressure sending unit, and I'm not even sure where it is, but I'm 99% sure I didn't break it because the car started up perfectly and ran perfect and has been ever since the weekend when I installed the stuff. So I'm pretty sure everything went just fine. Now I just have to wait till next spring to see if i get into the 12's with them... I was close before, with a 13.15, so I'm hoping...
#16
It hasn't been mentioned yet but retaining the stock LS1 cooling lines is supposed to help prevent #7 from going lean. All the more reason to keep the LS1 "front to back" style lines.