99 ss vs 01 z28
12-15-2006, 06:30 PM
#1
99 ss vs 01 z28 well i normally dont street race but every now and then i get the urge to do so. well last night i race a buddy of mine with an ss and needless to say i was a bit dissapointed with my cars performance.
the cars:
99 ss m6: pretty much stock but for a smooth below and an upgraded fuel pump.
01 z28 a4:LT headers, ory, flowmasters,lid, and a cut out(it was closed tho)
we raced twice from a dead stop, the first time he had me by 2-3 cars...i sorta freaked out a bit when i punched it and my rpms went up to 5000. ive never had them up that hight before, so i let off the gas a bit.
the second time it was more of an even race till the end when he put maybe a car on me.
i thought that i would at least beat a 99 ss with my mods and all but i guess i was wrong...
ill be racing him again once i get it dyno tuned in couple of months....at least an ls1 game me my first lost.
the cars:
99 ss m6: pretty much stock but for a smooth below and an upgraded fuel pump.
01 z28 a4:LT headers, ory, flowmasters,lid, and a cut out(it was closed tho)
we raced twice from a dead stop, the first time he had me by 2-3 cars...i sorta freaked out a bit when i punched it and my rpms went up to 5000. ive never had them up that hight before, so i let off the gas a bit.
the second time it was more of an even race till the end when he put maybe a car on me.
i thought that i would at least beat a 99 ss with my mods and all but i guess i was wrong...
ill be racing him again once i get it dyno tuned in couple of months....at least an ls1 game me my first lost.
12-15-2006, 07:44 PM
#4
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That doesnt sound right to me. You should of took him. I would also like to know what gears? I have beat z28's with same mods as you before too and i dont have LT's.
Maybe he was just a better driver.
Maybe he was just a better driver.
12-15-2006, 08:15 PM
#5
i think i have 3.23..but ill have to double check the code on that one...in the take off i had him about 1/2 a car till he hit 3rd gear and it was over for me.....
green 28 , when you say leaving at about 1000-1500, do you mean put my car in N and rev up to those rpms and finally **** to D??? i dont race that often...so im clueless
green 28 , when you say leaving at about 1000-1500, do you mean put my car in N and rev up to those rpms and finally **** to D??? i dont race that often...so im clueless
12-15-2006, 08:20 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by z28_n_tx
green 28 , when you say leaving at about 1000-1500, do you mean put my car in N and rev up to those rpms and finally **** to D??? i dont race that often...so im clueless
12-15-2006, 08:56 PM
#7
DO NOT NEUTRAL DROP THE CAR.
Leave it in D, stay on brake with left foot, rev with right foot till it hits stall rpm.
When you go, release brake and stab gas at same time.
The other way I launch an auto is just stay on brake, stab throttle at go, but don't floor it till traction is certain.
An auto should take a m6 off the line most of the time when stock. Modded, it's anyones guess depending on the types of mods done to the car.
M6's will rape an auto from a roll though with similar power levels.
Leave it in D, stay on brake with left foot, rev with right foot till it hits stall rpm.
When you go, release brake and stab gas at same time.
The other way I launch an auto is just stay on brake, stab throttle at go, but don't floor it till traction is certain.
An auto should take a m6 off the line most of the time when stock. Modded, it's anyones guess depending on the types of mods done to the car.
M6's will rape an auto from a roll though with similar power levels.
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12-15-2006, 09:15 PM
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thats wierd you lost when i had full bolt ons i never lost to a near stock m6. but like said above you do not want to punch it in the a4 just stab and work your up to WOT as soon as traction permits. also with the LTs did you have it tuned? if not get it tuned and try again.
12-15-2006, 09:44 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by SladeX
M6's will rape an auto from a roll though with similar power levels.
12-15-2006, 09:52 PM
#13
Originally Posted by SladeX
DO NOT NEUTRAL DROP THE CAR.
Leave it in D, stay on brake with left foot, rev with right foot till it hits stall rpm.
When you go, release brake and stab gas at same time.
The other way I launch an auto is just stay on brake, stab throttle at go, but don't floor it till traction is certain.
An auto should take a m6 off the line most of the time when stock. Modded, it's anyones guess depending on the types of mods done to the car.
M6's will rape an auto from a roll though with similar power levels.
Leave it in D, stay on brake with left foot, rev with right foot till it hits stall rpm.
When you go, release brake and stab gas at same time.
The other way I launch an auto is just stay on brake, stab throttle at go, but don't floor it till traction is certain.
An auto should take a m6 off the line most of the time when stock. Modded, it's anyones guess depending on the types of mods done to the car.
M6's will rape an auto from a roll though with similar power levels.
Originally Posted by jester177
thats wierd you lost when i had full bolt ons i never lost to a near stock m6. but like said above you do not want to punch it in the a4 just stab and work your up to WOT as soon as traction permits. also with the LTs did you have it tuned? if not get it tuned and try again..
12-15-2006, 09:59 PM
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Ya stop being a puss and keep it floored when you get up to the 5000 mark... Just kidding but seriously you need to just keep the thing wide open let it run up
to the 5800-6000 mark..
to the 5800-6000 mark..
12-15-2006, 10:00 PM
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You'll know because your car wont be able to hold those rpms, you'll start to take off. Your stall converter is sort of a wind-up for the engine for lack of better description, when you reach top stall speed, which on my stock A4 is only around 1400 i wanna say, the car starts to pull forward, it can no longer wind that fast. With an aftermarket stall converter like a 3600, it lets you hold the footbrake and your cars rpms will go to about 3600 before it starts to pull. hope this helps
12-15-2006, 10:13 PM
#16
Originally Posted by SOM02WS6
Ya stop being a puss and keep it floored when you get up to the 5000 mark... Just kidding but seriously you need to just keep the thing wide open let it run up
to the 5800-6000 mark..
to the 5800-6000 mark..
Originally Posted by CockerKid009
You'll know because your car wont be able to hold those rpms, you'll start to take off. Your stall converter is sort of a wind-up for the engine for lack of better description, when you reach top stall speed, which on my stock A4 is only around 1400 i wanna say, the car starts to pull forward, it can no longer wind that fast. With an aftermarket stall converter like a 3600, it lets you hold the footbrake and your cars rpms will go to about 3600 before it starts to pull. hope this helps
thanks guys
12-15-2006, 10:26 PM
#17
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yup get it tuned asap mine ran like ***, guzzled gas, and went through 4 front 02 sensors 3 spliced stock and one bosh vette sensor. got it tuned and it was a night and day difference then the other spliced stock sensor went out on the way home and had to buy another vette sensor.
