anyone runnin E/T Streets!!
#1
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anyone runnin E/T Streets!!
anybody running on 26x11.50-15LT...E/T streets?? how do they perform? i keep hearing negitive comments on theses, about swaying side to side. i didnt think i was gonna have a problem with em but i guess not! i got em for free,used but still with life in them. thanks.
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Originally Posted by CrawlinRS
I got 26x10-16 ET Streets and I got the sway too. Its just a characteristic of the tire. Soft sidewalls will do that. I also got caught out in the rain, those slits don't do a dam thing.
I have ran those same tires with the same problems. They sway like **** on the road and are just flat out dangerous in the rain. If you plan to drive it on the street any I would go with the ET/Street radials. But if it is a track only car they will be fine. The sidewall really allows you to hit them very hard off the line but is very unsettling on the street. But that is just my opinion.
#4
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I agree !! It also seems like the tires catch every groove or rut in the road and can really move the car around on the street. If you change lanes to pass someone on a 2 lane road its also a hand full for a second. It doesn't matter what tire pressure you have in them either, they still are a hand full on the street.
I like the ET street for the track only. I know what work works for me so I'm stickin to it. Mabey someday I'll sack up and try the MT drag radials.
I have a spare set of rims and the only time the tires see the street is when I am driving to or from the track.
I like the ET street for the track only. I know what work works for me so I'm stickin to it. Mabey someday I'll sack up and try the MT drag radials.
I have a spare set of rims and the only time the tires see the street is when I am driving to or from the track.
#6
if you fit them on a 10 in rim with 30 psi they are ok on the street. you wont win any autocross titles but there ok. but do not drive in the rain with them. at the track my dad runs them at 16-18. and make sure you use tubes with the tires it makes a difference.
#7
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I was runnin 14-15 at a badly prepped track, and at a good prepped track (Route 66 Joliet Illinois) I can run about 16 psi. The higher psi the higher trap mph I would get.
I would start out at 16 psi and see what happens. If your at the track and you have a little too much wheel spin take them down to 14psi. Its really just trial and error until you find the right psi to work with your setup, track conditions, and weather conditions.
I would start out at 16 psi and see what happens. If your at the track and you have a little too much wheel spin take them down to 14psi. Its really just trial and error until you find the right psi to work with your setup, track conditions, and weather conditions.
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#8
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i had some 26x10.5 et streets and they dead hooked (1.7 60ft) every time with minimal burnout when i had LT's, and a stall. i usually ran them at 18 psi cold and then after 1-2 runs they were at 20psi. if i ran them any lower my trap speed would start to fall 1-2 mph, but i only did this if the track wasnt hooking. my friends 383 formula cut consistent 1.5 60ft's with my et streets many times. they do sway if you drive on them, but your best bet is to avoid curves on the highway and changing lanes. I never had a problem driving from my house on et streets and prostars up front for about 45min. to the track.
I noticed your from Mission so i guess you run at EIRT, best thing to do is go around the water box and back up into it to wet the tires and roll out. everytime i would run, guys on street tires drove through the waterbox and staged right after, leaving the first couple of feet wet. my car would hook then spin right after the staging beams. the tires hook plenty, and there's no need run them at really low psi, just heat em up nicely. Good Luck!
I noticed your from Mission so i guess you run at EIRT, best thing to do is go around the water box and back up into it to wet the tires and roll out. everytime i would run, guys on street tires drove through the waterbox and staged right after, leaving the first couple of feet wet. my car would hook then spin right after the staging beams. the tires hook plenty, and there's no need run them at really low psi, just heat em up nicely. Good Luck!
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ok Well unless you have a bilstein option your SS suspension is the same as a z28 or base TA or formula except a thicker front sway... Also.. You can use those tires on stock suspension, you could use any tire really but people upgrade the suspension to help weight transfer.. Removing unsprung weight from the front using tubular aftermarket parts like a arms, kmember, removing front sway bar etc and 275lb springs.. adj shocks all around or revalved, tubular lower control arms in the rear, panhard, tq arm etc...
so to answer your question, YES, you just wont get the full traction advantages as cars with modified suspensions... If you lowered your car with stiffer shocks the tires will have less effect bc of less weight transfer.
so to answer your question, YES, you just wont get the full traction advantages as cars with modified suspensions... If you lowered your car with stiffer shocks the tires will have less effect bc of less weight transfer.
#15
ET street reg bias not radial.No bilstein and I cant tell about springs they seem stock but the car seems to sit low and scrapes over big bumps or dips or steep inclines which I hate but thats another topic.The best 60' time Im seein is 2.05 with nitto dumping the clutch at 27/28
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I had put 30 in mine on the street, but anything above 60 you got some sway, set at 20 on the strip, not even 1/2 way down the track you can feel it sway side to side, really weird feeling but you get use to it.
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Originally Posted by rickssz
ET street reg bias not radial.No bilstein and I cant tell about springs they seem stock but the car seems to sit low and scrapes over big bumps or dips or steep inclines which I hate but thats another topic.The best 60' time Im seein is 2.05 with nitto dumping the clutch at 27/28
#18
You seem to have more ground clearance but its hard to tell .Yes only one track. So your saying if I go slicks and they really bite u think instead of the clutch biting and propelling off the line it wont hold the torque and will slip or if it also holds now too much torque goes to the univesals rear end etc. The only way too keep the clutch from getting overwhelmed is to increase the launch rpm to spin the tires just enough to take the stress off the clutch and drive train .