creaper

iTrader: (13)

I am looking to get a set of heads and cam for my car. It currently has a D1SC procharger, LT headers w/ rest of exhaust done, 42# injectors, inline fuel pump and a tune. Right now it is putting down 458rwhp and looking to get more. What is the best heads and cam out there for this type of setup? Does anybody sell a package deal that includes everything i need? If not what else do i need besides the assembled heads and the cam? Also is doing either a FAST 90/90 a good idea when i install the heads/cam? I have heard mixed reviews about using the 90/90 with the procharger. Thanks.

Jake@EPP

The problem with heads and cam on a stock motor with the procharger, is its going to put you close to a number that is not going to be safe. I would buy a $80 pulley and turn the boost up a tad. We like to see 8psi and its usually good for 500-530rwhp, we like to keep stock motors around there.

creaper

iTrader: (13)

i am already getting 8# of boost. what other sugestions do you have for more hp? I went to the local speed shop and the recommended a package deal with assembled ARF heads, a cam(dont remember which one) and all the other stuff need to install it for about $4k.

Jake@EPP

What brand of dyno was this done on? With the above modifications, we consistently see 500-520hp.

creaper

iTrader: (13)

not sure. i bought it the way it is and got a dyno sheet saying that.

No Juice

iTrader: (11)

I'd suggest getting the tune checked on a dyno so you know what you are working with. Jake is right, you might just want to save your pennies for a forged bottom end so you can make some more power safely. You're not going to want to make much more than 500 until the motor can handle it.

creaper

iTrader: (13)

ok what do need to forge the bottom end? i plan on pulling the motor this winter and doing alot of motor work.

Rickys S/C Z28

iTrader: (13)

well ill le tyou know that i have the 6.0 heads and a cam from EPP dont know what it will do just yet but we will see

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

Depending on your power goals you could use just forged pistons. Pick a brand they are all pretty good, some popular ones are wiseco, diamond,mahle. You should at least upgrade the rod bolts to like arp.Rods can stay stock if you are not going for huge power. Stock cranks can take pretty big power. You can also get a 370 or 402/408 if you have the bucks. 370 is iron block usually pretty reaosnable if you stick with factory crank. Or you can of course forge up your current ls1. Up to you.
Patriot heads are pretty good bang for the buck on the ls1. If you have bigger bucks afr are a good choice. Those new l92 heads seem very good for cheap but need a matching intake and they don't work on ls1 blocks. Do some research on the forum and maybe in high tech performance mag.
The ls6 intake is pretty good for forced induction with a ported tb. The fast 90/90 can do good too especially if they are ported out.

Jake@EPP

If your tearing the motor apart you would almost be a fool not to put new forged rods, even eagle if your on a budget.

We typically use a Diamond Piston (either shelf or CC to your specs) , Total Seal rings, Callies Compstar rods (standard with ARP2000 rod bolts), and either ACL or Clevite bearings.

Pistons generally range from 500-800 depending on options and power levels, rings run from $200-250 , and rods are $600.

creaper

iTrader: (13)

jake, can you get pm me a list with prices of everything i would need to forge my motor as well as what heads and cam you recommend for a D1SC procharger? i want good parts as i only want to do this once. Thanks.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Please send an e-mail to me at bob@exoticperformanceplus.com with what you are looking for, and I'll get a quote together for you. Thanks! Bob

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

I have done a ton of RR on D1SC blower cams, forged internals, and heads for D1SC, and just ordered my off the shelf stock COMP blower Cam with specs of 224/230, l14 +2 lsa, .581/.592 lift. Put in some forged pistons and rods if your pulling motor for engine work, stick with 10:1 to 10:5 to 1 compression with forged motor to make BIG power and crazy torque with less boost (can handle up to 12 lbs of boost at these compression levels on forged motor with good tune and 93 octane no problem) and get some Patriot Performance CNC LS6 heads, stage II for $1,295 (come asembled with good Pat. Gold dual spring) or get their 72 cc LQ9 blower heads if you want to keep compression less than I suggest. You can even go with bone stock LS6 heads which flow good and make huge power on boost (see my sig) and put on some patriot gold duals. For pistons go with WISECO or Diamond -2cc off the shelp blower pistons and good luck! This set-up at the compression levels I suggest on 12 lbs of boost with this cam and a D1SC should make about 700rwhp! DAT's What I'm doing for my forged LS6 stock cubed blower motor I am going to have built in the future and that comes after countless hours of R&R and talking to TOP forced induction LS tuners!

creaper

iTrader: (13)

ok if anybody want to send me a list with parts i need and a breakdown on the price what would be great. i have sent bob 2 emails and he hasnt got back to me yet and it was been almost 2 weeks now. thanks

EPP

iTrader: (22)

What e-mail address to you send it to? Thanks. Bob

creaper

iTrader: (13)

the one you have listed above in your post. just clicked on it and it adds it to the TO in my email.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I found your e-mail and repled back to you. Thanks! Bob

Rickys S/C Z28

iTrader: (13)

dont worry bob will take great care of you man!!!

Rickys S/C Z28

iTrader: (13)

in your sig it says that your motor was stock when you made over 600 HP? is this right or did you jusy not put the forged part down?

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

No, my stock LS6 with the basic supporting bolt on mods in my sig is making over 614rwhp and 512rwtq at 9/10 lbs on my bone stock LS6 motor, not tuned for alky either by FLP, with my D1SC East Coast supercharing kit. The higher compression of the LS6 motor and very blower friendly stock cam makes BIG POWER on the boost and I have had 10,500 trouble free miles and belt looks like new still and have about 400 miles logged in on road race tracks for 20 minute hard sessions!
I am also running straight methanal not to make more power, but to keep the octane levels up and to cool down the IAT, and I believe that has helped me out a lot with engine live longeviety. Car was tuned off the alky by FLP, and then alky was added per my insistence to help motor live, and actually when I turn up the alky its a way of detuning to a degree, b/c it makes my car run richer, etc., but its all controllable the alky by a dial in the car, and if i want to make the stupid big power i just shut it off or turn her down low. ALKY kicks on if its on when 4lbs of boost or more is made.

In the process of building a forged LS6 right now for a backup to have ready to pop in when my stocker takes a dump, and if it still lasts will put in new forged motor next year and sell the stock LS6!