tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Ok now I wont to rebuild my 94 lt1 but would like to do forged internals, crank, rods, pistons, and bearings. I really dont know what is a good set for the best prices. I dont wont a stroker motor just a stock forged bottom end kit. I do plan on juicing it later, so if some one can inform. me on which is the bang for my buck I would appreciate it. Also, if someone that has put a built motor in there lt1 can let me know what they did for the oppti? as in did you get an msd or opti delete ect... Thanks and have a nice day

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You are so not ready for a build.

Once you are consider Compstar.

The opti works just fine despite what the vast numbers of ignorant fools say.

1SLO6

iTrader: (8)

Ok u ask for advice and then u say no **** talkers....96capricemgr is very knowledgable so have some friggin respect, since he knows how to build a fast LT1.....

LiENUS

There is no reason to upgrade the opti with the bottom end, the opti handles just electricity the increased weight of your forged bottom end won't have a bearing on the opti. and he did give you help he suggested compstar. By the way why do you need a forged bottom end? there are guys spraying as high on as a 200 shot on the stock bottom end (not advised). If you just want to take a little juice later, upgrade your fuel system. Its more insurance than upgrading the bottom end for a small shot and much cheaper. If you are dead set on a rebuild and want forged go with forged pistons stock everything else and a set of rings with ring gaps set up for nitrous. Forged materials are heavier than most cast materials so unless you need it all youl'l get is less power.

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Whats your budget?

You could do a decent 355ci setup for a reasonable amount, stock crank, forged rod and an off the shelf mahle piston.

As others have said, your not ready to be purchasing parts yet if you think that there is a stock 'forged' bottom end kit. As well as an opti delete.

Do some research, your not hurting anythin by learning.

Tony.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys.

I will agree with Tony that the stock crank is STOUT, you could save some money by going with like the $300 scat rods and some Mahle pistons with the stock crank and have a motor that will hold a lot if machined right.

For a full forged rotating assembly Compstar is a hard value to beat, only downside is the forgings are done offshore, BUT Callies does the machining and I trust them to weed out any substandard parts.

If you had bothered to do any research first you would understand all the opti "delete" packages keep half the opti around and that there are a lot of us going fast with fully functional optis. Largely it is foolish kids who have no idea of the mainenence recorsd who have a problem with the cap and rotor who swear the opti is junk, neglecting too consider that those are wear items. The water "problems" are grossly overstated and again any distributor gets water inside and it will act up. Tke care to make sure it is sealed and you wont have water problems.

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

its all about how much power you want to make.
if you want big power more then 500rwhp you going to need a splay the mains$$$
a decent crank $$$
a decent set of rods$$$$
a good set of pistons$$
Port the heads?$$$
Cam
Injectors
fuel pump.
before you ask question like "how do i build a forged buttom end" ask yourself"How much power do i want to make"

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

LittleRedZ brings up another point, power is in the topend moreso than the bottom, you nhave to get the heads and cam right or it wont perform.

socal

iTrader: (1)

how much spray are you going to put on it and how often

we just put foraged piston in with the stock crank and rods w a 200 shot 847 cam in a vett (4 bolt block) but we didn't beat on it

right now im building a 396 w cllies dragonslayer crank, srp pistons, callies rods, and callies 4 bolt splay kit lt1 stage 3 heads and an 847 cam. It should be a little over 500hp @ motor on motor then a 200 shot weekend fun and 300 for the track 12 to1 compresion

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

+1 on this info plus a few other things too.

Finding a GOOD machine shop for this project will also be a chore.

You definately will want to have your rotating assembly balanced.

A new upgraded rearend to handle the TQ of the new motor. $$$$

While your at it you will want to upgrade your suspension parts so that you can hook up the new found HP. (Personally this is the area where you should start at first in my opinion)

A new clutch or if you have a A4 a new TQ converter & trans upgrades.

A new exhaust system to handle the larger amounts of exh gases while on the N2O.

There are alot of variables to consider all at the same time when looking at your performance goals.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

+1 on this info, no brain or lungs, and your car is going no where but putting you straight to frustration.

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Soory for the miss under standing. didnt know what compstar is, u didnt explain it at all. thanks for the help.

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Thanks , but what is compstar? I wanted a froged bottom end because I thought it would be nice to have just in case later on! I know that the stock crank can handel up to 500 hp and I do know that the rods can hold some power to but if im going to take it apart might as well put some good parts in! But now am thinking of just some forged pistons and have it gapped right for nitrous, thanks for your help.

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Thanks and i have done some research but oviously not enogh,lol. what type of rods should i get? and what i ment about a stock forged bottom end kit was just a regular 347 ci forged bottom end kit,not 383ci,396ci. ect... I will explain myself better next time! Thanks again

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Thanks already have that done, have afr 195cc
w/ 65cc combustion and 64cc exhaust but the cam im leaving stock for know. Thanks again

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

huh, Not that much i dont expect, at the most 100 shot and will be spraying when ever i take it to the track which around 4 times a month

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

Thanks but my car has most of that, have a moser 12 bolt w/ 411's. mickey thompsons et streets, mcloud tiwin disc. clutch pressure plate,master cylinder, slave cylinder,and through out bearing, spohn lower control arms, panhard rod and torque arm, bmr tobular k- member, kooks long toubes no cats and slp sub frame. dont have a roll cage yet, will IF i get to fast. Thanks though for your help, will explain my situation better next time!

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

IMO and even in the opinion of many AFR lovers the old heads below 210cc suck, the new ones are as of yet untested.

Stock cam with more head is a mistake, a big one.

http://compstarcomponents.com/
Complete balanced rotating assemblies, if buying a forged crank this would be the way I tell anyone to go. The components are available seperate but the package is such a great value.

By the time you balance or rebalance something like a $1800 Eagle kit you will be up to the $2000 or so this kit costs, but this one will be well balanced from the factory and is of better quality.

tyler ovel

iTrader: (1)

thanks but why is the stock cam with better head not good, I know i wont produce as much power?

Speed Density

iTrader: (38)

Stock displacement is 350ci, not 347ci.

The 6.00'' rod/piston combo is one of the best setups you can do, works very well together.

I agree on Dwayne's compstar statements. They are extremely nice parts, I run them in my new engine.

Tony.