AZHummer

I was using the predator in the real time mode. I have the tune program from the unit in the H2. The only things I changed was the shift time and pressure. I go to WOT and the KR shows some timing being pulled out. 2-5 degrees. It that normal. No trouble codes show up. ( do I have to look for codes or would they show up?) Are there supposed to be no KR readings at WOT? Should I richen up PE. I have the Volant air box and Bassini dual exhaust along with the GMS MAF. The O2 reads 866. Thanks Guys.

Predator

No, it's not something you should live with.

Try getting your O2 readings around .89 to .90 and see if the KR goes away.

66ImpalaLT1

I would remove the GMS MAF and see what happens. But even if the KR doesnt go away, sell it, larger MAF's are not required on these engines.

They sometimes result in a power increase because the engine starts running leaner, but if you have a tuning device you dont need to be tricking the PCM by the MAF.

Sometimes a larger MAF has been known to cause problems.

Eric

AZHummer

Thanks Predator, the increase should be made in the PE table?

AZHummer

Eric, it is like the GMS, not an actual one. It still has the sreen and it has the rear plastic vane and the front slots gone. still the same electronics. I am thinking that the tune from diablo needs some richening up at wot. It is breathing better then stock so maybe it needs more fuel.

Predator

Yes, PE vs RPM table.

AZHummer

Thanks Predator, I will try it today.

66ImpalaLT1

Ok, but I dont care who modified the MAF sensor.
Its junk.

Eric

Predator

I agree about the maf. If KR is still there after richening, I'd reinstall the stock maf and and retune.

AZHummer

It is the stock sensor, the electronics are stock, just a little more air coming in from the two slots on the front. On the dyno it made more HP with the Volant box on an H2 test vehicle on an AWD Dyno. So I modified mine like that. I added some PE and will try some WOT with the predator in the real time mode. Will let Eric and Predator know the outcome.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I think some trucks, or maybe all, have a
plastic-body MAF like the Z06. I think this
truck 85mm MAF is what SLP uses as the base
for its aftermarket 85mm F-body MAFs (with
a resistor tweak for "calibration").

Power enrichment is the first thing to try.
I'd go for o2s in the 920mV range at WOT.
If your KR events are not at WOT, but only
on deceleration, you are close to where you
want to be. But you don't want even a hint
of it on acceleration.

AZHummer

HI Jimmy, I put just a little more PE in the H2 and the KR is till there. 860 on the O2. Will add full 2% and see if it helps. The extra pamphlet that came with the predator for the H2 said 89-91 octane was good. I am using 89, maybe I should try 91 before I go any further.
Last option is to pull out some timimg.

66ImpalaLT1

I still think its your MAF. It doesnt matter if the electronics are stock, when you alter the velocity of the air moving through it the readings are skewed. Quite honestly, it doesnt matter that it made more power on the dyno, it probably made the truck run leaner.

When the PCM is tuned for the same AF ratio and timing, has anyone ever proven a modified MAF to make more power on an naturally aspirated LS1?

If it has happened I have not seen it.

Eric

Blackbird

definetly try 91 before going further.

you don't eek out max performance on low grade gas

AZHummer

Blackbird, I did put 91 octane in it today but I was towing so I went easy. I will hook up the predator in the real time setting and see tomorrow. I will let everyone know. BTW the transmission is shifting great with the settings I have in there. The predator was worth it just for that.

AZHummer

Eric, I will try the higher octane and see if the KR is still there at WOT. At all other TP settings there is zero KR. I can always fill the slots back up and make it stock. I did see it with my own eyes ( The dyno test) and the car was at a good O2 setting as showing by the broad band sensor. SO who knows. Will let you know how the voltages are on the O2's tomorrow.

AZHummer

Well everyone I just did a few more tweeks on the ECU and I have success. I was able to leave the timing alone and just increase PE and no more KR retarding. I added 4% more fuel at WOT. I will start pulling some out now to the point of KR. I did some 1st grear womps and no KR, then 2nd gear womps again no KR. I made sure that the TP was 100%. Thanks again for all the help. BTW on the predator increasing the shift pressure number is the correct way to increase the force on the gear change? I think it is the opposite on LS1. correct?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Shift pressure you want to increase (positive is firmer)
Shift Adaptation Time you want to decrease (negative is faster)
at least on the F-body LS-1 programmer. Some trucks have two
transmission modes and you may want to adjust both (same or
different depending on whether you ever tow, etc.). Max
pressure may be overkill on low gear changes and I saw
somebody saying higher pressure actually makes downshifts
slower (?) although upshifts are firmer. Don't know how real
this is but it's another "tweak it until it feels right, or
until the toy won't tweak no more" deal.

AZHummer

Jimmylube thanks and that is how I have it adjusted. Sure it great to see the O2's going into the correct range with the increase in PE. I tried .5% no change. 2% no change. 4% wow no KR. Will find the exact spot KR returns. Will add some timing as well. Thanks to this great forum the H2 is running great.