Tram

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys..

I'm about to swap a stock 2.73 rear for a 3.42 rear, and I'm wondering what kind of rear end gear oil to use, and how much of it I'm gonna need?

Thanks,
Jeff

chicane

Tram

iTrader: (14)

The search sucks..

Thanks though..

Tram

iTrader: (14)

For the next guy who may come along and need this info..

Roughly 2.5 qts of 75w90.. Fill from the axle hole on the passenger side.. Seems like most guys liek Royal Purple or Mobil 1.. No additive needed for these.. Get the additive if you go with dino oils..

Greggy

I have done this like 7 times and it only takes 1.75 qts and use M1 75w-90.
No additive is needed for the stock torsen LSD no matter what fluid you use.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

did mine and used the M1 75w90. just for piece of mind i used the additive. but ya, it isnt required

ultraz

iTrader: (4)

anyone use redline fluids?

Tram

iTrader: (14)

Well, I've got the old rear out and the new rear all ready to go in..

Should have it in in the AM..

Anyone know if I need to get new programming IMMEDIATELY for the car to drive right?

I am going to start my heads/cam swap next week (or tomorrow if I get the rear in soon enough) but I'd like to drive it around for a day or two..

I know the speedo will be off, but I can take a GPS with me for speed readouts..

chicane

12 pages of nothing I guess... https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.php?do=process

But, to add to the meele'... the use of a straight weight 140 (or even a multi vis 85-140) is prefered for performance use. The better lubericants are from Schaffers, TORCO and Lucas. Royal Purple doesnt seem worth a **** outside of engine use and Mobile1 doesnt have the shock loading properties needed unless your getting groceries or change you differential lube every six months... just like the RedLine products.

As for the friction modifier... it is required for use in lubericants that dont have it added into the base material. Dyno, synthetic... or not... its not just for dino. It is necessary for use in limited slip differentials like that of a platen type clutch (Eaton) or forcing cone (Auburn).

Also... you dont need to reprogram it immediately. But it is in your best interest to do it as soon as possible, as it has to do with the fuel enrichment programming at cruise. If you run it too long without programming it... it can lead to a lean condition and trigger other issues.

I am guessing that none of this could be found in the 12 pages of suckiness. I know I myself, along with multiple others have answered this atleast 25 times each...

Tram

iTrader: (14)

First, I appreciate the answers..

Secondly, It appears they have been working on the search's ability to do a search, as I know this is a new beta search engine.. At the time of posting this thread, it provided zero decent results.. It is now providing much more accurate results..

Thanks for your time though!

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I run stock grade dino oil with GM additive, never an issue

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

Auburn gets mineral oil with additive

Torsen gets either mineral or synthetic with no additive unless its squeekin

chicane

My apologizes Tram.

I totally forgot that some am/will/are having problems with the search function. I recant the sarcasm, if you will allow it.

Tram

iTrader: (14)

No worries man..