Detroit Tru Trac for 7.5 10 bolts?
10-31-2007, 12:08 PM
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Detroit Tru Trac for 7.5 10 bolts? They now offer the tru trac for our stock 10 bolt and it's cheaper than the Eaton and Auburn! Anyone try one yet, or heard anything bad? I don't want to drop $2K right now on a real rear end, so I'd like to rebuild my 180K mile rear end and make it a little stronger. My stock 10 bolt with just a TA girdle lived through more than 100 passes on Nitto Dr's so if the tru trac is even a little stronger I think I'll be ok for awhile. I'm just a 13.0 bolt on car, btw.
11-07-2007, 08:40 PM
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I went ahead and bought one and it's being installed now, so I'll post up after I get some impression of how it's working. I plan on doing a test and tune on the 18th so that should be a good test for it.
11-08-2007, 12:25 AM
#5
You will have to do some modding or the C clips will blow up. There is nothing that ties the axles into the differential like the OEM's cross pin. The axle will float too much and destroy the c clips.
It is the worst rear end ever. All they had to do is change the plug into something that ties the system together.
My rear end has destroyed 3 sets of c clips from normal driving going slow around turns.
It is the worst rear end ever. All they had to do is change the plug into something that ties the system together.
My rear end has destroyed 3 sets of c clips from normal driving going slow around turns.
11-08-2007, 07:02 AM
#6
You can blow a tru-trac up, but with a 10 bolt I am going to wager other things are going to break 1st before the unit.
Id save your $$, buy another used 10 bolt and save for a upgraded unit. Especially if any hard driving, or racing is involved.
Id save your $$, buy another used 10 bolt and save for a upgraded unit. Especially if any hard driving, or racing is involved.
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11-08-2007, 11:02 AM
#8
From looking at the exploded diagram it appears to me that Tru Trac is a drag racing only differential. The entire weight of the car is on the c clips on turns and the axles will bash the c clips from side to side in the turns. This makes the c clip conical and hard as hell to get out. As well as they start to crack and your axle could eventually fly out. If you can do the c clip eliminators maybe it could be ok.
11-13-2007, 03:54 AM
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Well I'm about 200 miles into my break in period and everything seems great so far. I don't notice anything unusual when turning, not even when turning sharply in and out of a parking space. The installer must have done a great job because there is absolutely no gear whine from the 4.10's on accel or decelleration. We'll see how it holds up a the track this Sunday.
11-13-2007, 07:23 AM
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there are kits to get rid of the c-clips, forgot what they're called but they bolt to they bolt at the end of the axles by the brakes. With the c-clip problem eliminated how will this tru-trac be?
11-13-2007, 06:57 PM
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The kit is called a C-clip eliminator kit! I'm not sure if they make one for our 10 bolts though. BTW, I thought the Truetrac has been out for years for our cars?
11-13-2007, 08:15 PM
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I had one in my car for yr. and half now with no problems...except I could'nt my abs ring to press far enough down on the unit.So I just done away with abs......but if you feel comfortable with the fit it may be fine I did'nt. I've never had any c-clip blow-up that's afirst for me lmao the internet.lol........You can even tell it's a tru-trac it's not like when we use to weld the spider gears when you go into a sharp turn you'll never know the difference.
11-13-2007, 09:59 PM
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I run a Detroit LOCKER ( not a tru track )last 2 years with 4 channel, abs and all working without any problem,other than some clicking on tight turns which do not bother me , no problems with c clips on the locker
but to be clear I run DETROIT LOCKER not detroit tru trac
but to be clear I run DETROIT LOCKER not detroit tru trac
