Quartermaster 7.25" clutch ?s
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Quartermaster 7.25" clutch ?s
I bought a used t56 with a quartermaster 7.25" setup.I have a mccleod master cylinder and am wondering if this is usable.All my research shows I need a 3/4" master.I was also told it could be used on my ls1, but the special flywheel it came with is too small.I believe it is for an lt1.It also came with an automatic flywheel for an lt1.Could I use an automatic flywheel for an ls1 for this?If so, do I need longer studs to bolt up the clutch to flywheel or do I have to purchase the special flywheel from quartermaster?
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I also trying to put together a QM 7.25 setup on my LS1. You can use an LS1 flexplate, but will need a the 7.25 button flywheel from QM and some longer flywheel bolts from them. Not sure on the master cylinder size, I think I'm going to try 3/4".
These are the pn# I'm using
7.25 button flywheel 509127
LSx flyhweel bolt kit 505007
Give them a call and they can confirm, and also point you to a distributor nearby. http://racingclutches.com/
These are the pn# I'm using
7.25 button flywheel 509127
LSx flyhweel bolt kit 505007
Give them a call and they can confirm, and also point you to a distributor nearby. http://racingclutches.com/
#3
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I don't think that the 509127 button will work inside the T56 bellhousing. It positions the clutch too far back since it was originally designed for a reverse mount arrangement.
I called them last week and they have a new one piece, billet, stock diameter, 168 tooth flywheel. They should be in stock in a week or so. Just went out for heat treat. This flywheel is built similar to all of their cup parts. Should be about 13 pounds. It will accommodate both a 7.25" clutch setup and the 8.5" clutch setup.
Here are some pictures of an older flywheel that I was using in my RX7 with a single disk 8.5" clutch.
Flywheel:
Clutch cover, flipped upside down:
Pressure plate added making sure everything is ultra clean:
Then the disk:
This is what a real clutch alignment tool looks like:
Alignment tool inserted. Disk lined up. Clutch cover tightened to 24 lb/ft with a dab or red locktite:
All done. The whole assembly with the flywheel and clutch is about 22 pounds:
I have also added some pictures of what you need to do in terms of the throwout bearing. Quarter Master makes an adapter plate to bolt one of their Tri-Lite bearing to the face of the T56. A 3/4" MC will work fine, just make sure that you fabricate a pedal stop so that the you do not over center the spring. On the RX7 I used the stock 5/8" bore MC and it gave me sufficient travel at the bearing with a nice long pedal. Made for a very streetable combination. If your setup is more race, then a 3/4" bore MC will give you much shorter pedal travel.
I am sure I missed some details, so please do not hesitate to ask.
Andrew
As I recall my Tri-Lite used the 1.85" piston and that gave me an ideal .200" gap between the spring and the bearing. Your setups may need other piston lengths, depending on the stack-up height of your clutch.
I called them last week and they have a new one piece, billet, stock diameter, 168 tooth flywheel. They should be in stock in a week or so. Just went out for heat treat. This flywheel is built similar to all of their cup parts. Should be about 13 pounds. It will accommodate both a 7.25" clutch setup and the 8.5" clutch setup.
Here are some pictures of an older flywheel that I was using in my RX7 with a single disk 8.5" clutch.
Flywheel:
Clutch cover, flipped upside down:
Pressure plate added making sure everything is ultra clean:
Then the disk:
This is what a real clutch alignment tool looks like:
Alignment tool inserted. Disk lined up. Clutch cover tightened to 24 lb/ft with a dab or red locktite:
All done. The whole assembly with the flywheel and clutch is about 22 pounds:
I have also added some pictures of what you need to do in terms of the throwout bearing. Quarter Master makes an adapter plate to bolt one of their Tri-Lite bearing to the face of the T56. A 3/4" MC will work fine, just make sure that you fabricate a pedal stop so that the you do not over center the spring. On the RX7 I used the stock 5/8" bore MC and it gave me sufficient travel at the bearing with a nice long pedal. Made for a very streetable combination. If your setup is more race, then a 3/4" bore MC will give you much shorter pedal travel.
I am sure I missed some details, so please do not hesitate to ask.
Andrew
As I recall my Tri-Lite used the 1.85" piston and that gave me an ideal .200" gap between the spring and the bearing. Your setups may need other piston lengths, depending on the stack-up height of your clutch.
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Thanks for the part numbers.I had to throw my old mccleod single disc back in to get the car up and running again until I can get what I need.The guy I bought everything from was suppose to overnight a 3/4" master cylinder to me, but I never received it.I was going to use this for a street/strip setup.I have the twin organic disc setup.Is this going to be streetable at all?Just wondering if I can get 10k miles out of it or if I need to sell this setup and move on.
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Thanks for the part numbers.I had to throw my old mccleod single disc back in to get the car up and running again until I can get what I need.The guy I bought everything from was suppose to overnight a 3/4" master cylinder to me, but I never received it.I was going to use this for a street/strip setup.I have the twin organic disc setup.Is this going to be streetable at all?Just wondering if I can get 10k miles out of it or if I need to sell this setup and move on.
Andrew
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It is in a 99 ss camaro.Streetable is something I can drive around on the street with.I only drive the car on weekends and usually not that far, just don't want to pop the clutch everytime to keep from burning it up.