2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

I'm thinking of upgrading to a 383CI LS1 (actually 387CI...4.125" bore, stock 3.622" stroke crank) and was wondering what the average hp people are getting out of them.

With my stock short block 346CI running a TR224 I'm making 400rwhp (should hit 415HP or so when winter comes)

My goal has always been 500 rwhp (no nitrous) and it would be nice to do it without FI (all motor is just cool).

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Check my post here at the middle of the internal engine section. I put out 511 rwhp thru a 12 bolt with 4.33's, it can be done. It's all in the heads and the tuning IMO.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

YES!!!!!

What are the specs of the cam?

How does the 12.2:1 CR work out for you on 91? I'm over here in Phoenix with 11.1:1 and I thought that was bad.

My car already has all the good bolt-ons (hooker LTs, x-pipe, ported maf, LS6 intake) and my heads are stage III, 5.7Liter heads with a 60cc chambers.

robertbartsch

....and how do you plan on getting a 4.125 bore?

..the only alternatives i know of are (1) a c5-r block at $6.5K, (2) a Darton-sleeved LS1 block at $3K.

Is this correct?

robertbartsch

...would it not be SAFER to go with a 383 stroker....4.125 crank and stock bore...?

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

I have a 4.125" on an LS6 block. No expensive Darton sleeves or a C5R block here. My car hasn't leaked a drop of coolant, if the shop knows what they're doing then you shoudn't have to worry. A 383 stroker I guess would be safer but wouldn't be as fun IMO because it would give you as much HP as a big bore will, and all that torque will be useless on the street anyway.

The 12.2:1 CR will work on a very conservative tune. I basically have a street tune and a race tune since I have LS1 edit at my disposal. I put down something like 450 rwhp and 450 rwtq with 91 octane and 11 degrees of timing. When I heard that I told AAP to put a more aggressive street tune on it and I'll use a mixture of 100 and 91 octane for the street and 103 for the track.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

(2) Darton-sleeved LS1 block.....but it won't cost me $3K to do the block

a) MTI has them for $1,995 + core charge (can get a block for less than $500)...

b) local machean shop (did my heads and builds top fuel engines) quoted me $1K for machean work/labor....so that plus $1,300 for the sleaves from TR is only $2,300....

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

really......so what sleeves did your shop go with (if you know....)? If I don't have to use the $1300 Dartons I won't.



I'm not going stroker because it wouldn't do me any good:

1) I have 2.08/1.60 valves on my heads (pre-planned big bore) and they are shrouded in the stock bore. I need the larger bore so I can actually use the heads ($$$).

2) The 385RWTQ already burns the 295 I have on the rear in second (even lit the traction light going into 3rd at 75mph) so stroke/more torque would be BADDDDDDD for me.

3) People have subjected the factory crank to 800+ hp and had no problems, so my 600-650 hp should go for many years.

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I just have the MTI all-bore situation where they did up an LS6 block I sent them. I had the same issue; I have 2.08" valves and need the bore.

I used both a stock crank, and stock rods. Its a street car, and my end goal is to have a 427 in there. I didnt think it would be wise to buy 387 length rods only to buy different ones in a year or two. I believe that for my purposes, stock rods with ARP rod bolts is enough for an X1 cam (230/227) on a 114. I dont want to shift too far after 6000. Im going to enjoy the torque, but I have alot of traction, so Im barely able to get tip-in spin (shifting the tranny like a nutty bastard to get the rear to break loose doesnt count) in 2nd with the big nitto DRs. More torque would be fun.

With stock rods, the bottom end with cam, timing chain, oil pump, etc etc came to like 4800.

I'm very pleased that not only can I get it from MTI, who if they install it give oyu a warrantee, but also, I can get it for a great price.

Chris

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, AAP uses a dry L.A. sleeve setup, much cheaper than the Darton Blocks and I've put lots of street miles on it with no problems whatsoever. Visceral, you'll like the torque but if you think that anything less than ET Streets at around 15 psi will hold that kind of power your in for a surprise . I have Yokohama 315 Road Races tires in the rear, boxed LCA's, RT torque arm at a -2 pinion angle, and a heavy woofer box in my truck right over the rear wheels. That's as much traction with street tires that you can get and I still have gotten a little sideways in 2nd from a roll. Of course the 4.33's don't help much either

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I dont mind being pleasantly surprised

I dont expect to get as close to 500 rwtq as you are though.

chris

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

$2300
Don't forget you need pistons and other items when you into this type of project.
$4,250 from JPR:

robertbartsch

OK great.

Why do I read so many posts about people dropping sleeves in non-Darton sleeved blocks?

Are these casulties the result of earlier pre-production resleeving processes that were not very good; has the resleeving process been recently perfected?

Thanks...

robertbartsch

Where can you buy blocks for $500? ...I saw a Lingenfelter web page with the Darton block for $2,500 plus core....

If you did not have a core, the web page says add $500 for a block.

Is $500 the current market price for a used LS1 block?

Does Darton also offer the re-sleeving service or do they only sell the Darton sleeves to others?

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

When you say they have to know what they're doing, I take that to mean that it's not like your typical boring out of a cylinder? Or do they just have to sonic check the block before hand to make sure it has the proper thickness between cylinders to be able to handle the bigger bore?

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

W e have a set of 4.125" Darton sleeves in stock and will let them go for $1200 if you are interested.
Nate

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

SmokinV8: All I know is that my car hasn't had any issues and I've put almost 2000 street miles on it since I got it back in April. Getting the tranny rebuilt next week and I'll finally get some numbers out of it.

SMOKINV8

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for clearing it up for me.

Wicked package by the way, I bet that's helluva fun ride. You plan on spraying it at all?

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

JE said the pistons will take anything under a 200 shot, so after I get some motor times I'll swap the 4.33's for 4.11's and try a progressive controlled 150-175 wet shot

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

$2300 is a basic estimate of the resleave block (using Darton Sleaves)...

that $4250 is a complete short block (even has an oil pump)...

I'm going to use all the stuff off of my current engine (oil pump, crank, rods, double roller chain, head studs, etc). It won't cost me much to have the crank and rods cleaned up (less than $500). Pistons/rings seem to be the only other "big" cost that I would have and they are $500-$700 depending on what I go with. Sure there will be things like gaskets, bearings, and ARP bolts/studs but it should still be less than the $4250 JPR wants (since I'm reusing things).

Fianlly, I'm assembling the engine myself (won't charge myself too much $$$ there ).

an unseen cost that I had not thought about was a cam.....I'm going to need something much larger than the TR224 I have...