helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I finally got time to take my rear end apart after driving it for 300 noisy miles. This was a complete Moser rear bought from a vendor and installed in my 2000 SS to recap. Detroit True Trac and 3.70 gear 31 spline axles with 4 wheel ABS/Traction control, set up by Moser. This rear made noise from day one. Too much noise! I was told to drive it for 100-150 miles to break it in and look for the noise to go away.

I knew better but thought what the hell....it is already in and I want to drive it and work out some other bugs from my build.

As promised I took some pics of the gear patten which confirm two things. The set-up was definitely wrong and this noise was not caused by an improper break in procedure.

Here are the pics of the 'drive' side and the 'coast' side of the gear set-up.

You be the judge, I can tell you - it's not right.

For those considering Moser complete centers - Be Cautious, and most of all be sure you have a good rapport with your vendor because Moser will tell you to pound sand - NO WARRANTY - says so right on the instruction sheet in the box.

Since I can do this work myself I am only out the cost of the gear set. But to the average hot rodder, you would be looking at a several hundred dollar repair, on top of the 2500.00 you just spent for a 'quality' rear end.

MattIROC

iTrader: (19)

That sucks. When I got my Moser 9" for my iroc, I had the gears setup by my buddy who also put the whole rear in. Had it for 4 years now, no noise whatsoever. The only complaint was I had got a posi for it at first. Well I was told I could not overpower the posi. Guess what? I did, with only running 11.50's! Moser didn't help out, so I sold the posi (worked fine, but only spun one tire due to my "excessive" power lol). Bought a spool, and no problems at all. Paid around 3k shipped for it I believe, but this was in 03. You would think you would get some better service than that. At least you're not out the entire amount, so it could be worse.

Jordan S.

iTrader: (17)

The wheel studs moser sends with their kits are foreign junk that shouldnt be on a race rear end.

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

Number 1, anyone that tells you to drive it longer and the noise will go away is full of it.

Number 2, no different type of oil is going to make your gears quieter.

Number 3, either the pinion is set to deep or the gear is burned up on the drive side. It is hard to tell from the photo so I cannot really respond to what the problem is(improper setup or breakin).

Do you have a closer pic of the drive side without any gear compound or grease you could post?

Jeff

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Jeff, you are wrong on number 1 and number 2.

Gears can indeed get quieter once they are broken in, we have had it happen.

A thicker quality gear oil can make gears quieter.

We sell more Moser rears (three yesterday) than probably anyone else, and nine out of ten are quiet. Bob

RDY2RUN

iTrader: (29)

I had the same EXACT problem you have now. From the pictures, the pull side of the gear looks like crap and the coast side looks ok. My vendor corrected the problem by changing the ring and pinion and pinion bearings. As soon as I put the new gears in, my whine was gone. The whole reason I went with the 9 inch was if I launched hard(M6) the rear end would stay quieter than a 12 bolt. Good luck on fixing the problem.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

You are dead on. The pinion needed to be spaced further out (additonal shim), it is riding too deep in the ring gear. Noise was most prevalent on accel, not decel, although there was some noise on decel and it varied with speed. I agree the 'coast' side looks pretty good, the 'drive' side is way off.

I haven't set up the Motive gear I got yet, but I am confident it will be quiet

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I have never had a ring pinion whine issue get better with time, break in or no break in. I have also tried 120 weight oil to reduce gear whine, did not help at all. That drive side pattern is way off.

I agree with Jaws on this one.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

"Number 3, either the pinion is set to deep or the gear is burned up on the drive side. It is hard to tell from the photo so I cannot really respond to what the problem is(improper setup or breakin).

Do you have a closer pic of the drive side without any gear compound or grease you could post?"

I ran 80/140 non-synthetic and followed their break in procedure. Problem was the set-up as verified by the patterns taken. I can take some more pics of the gear after it is out. I will be setting up the others tonight. The way the set-up was all of the oil was forced out of the gear - hence the noise. It was too deep and running too far on the toe side for a street car. There are some signs of heat in the gear, they are not worthy for a street car at this point, proably be O.K. in an open header race car.

My original thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=moser+noisy

T/AWS6969

I have heard this sooooo many time about Moser. Someday i will upgrade but it wont be Moser!

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

We will have to agree to disagree on this point Bob

Jawsgear

iTrader: (2)

Don't get me wrong the Moser differentials are great! We sell a crap load of them. We just like to use the Motive Performance Gears and install the parts ourself. May not be 3 a day like other sponsors but the again I am not in Moser's back yard and have not been on this forum as long as other sponsors, but give it time.

Jeff

Assman

iTrader: (2)

I've had my rear in for probably a little over 1,000 miles and it's VERY quiet. I got the same true trac diff with 4.11 gears, i'm sorry to hear of your troubles, I would be pissed if it was mine after I spent $2500+ on it.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

No complaint with the parts, just the person doing the work, Moser's poor Quality Control and the standard 'I wash my hands clear of this it is a performance part' response - NO WARRANTY'. BS

This is no different than any other vendor who may be selling shortblocks, longblocks, complete heads, whatever. If your NEW engine smokes, has low oil pressure, a noise, or leaking gaskets right out of the gate - somethings wrong. Sure there are liabilities endured by the end user, but do a search on this forum and some others. I am not the first and damn sure won't be the last with a noisy rearend from Moser.

BTW chunk, axles, and housing were nice pieces. I would offer one other suggestion to Moser and that would be to complete the housing by offering and welding the sway bar bushing brackets in place. It is supposed to be a complete bolt-in housing.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Call me stupid, but how does a company that sales and installs and performs services to rear ends not know how to set them up correctly?

Maybe they need to make it a 3 day turn around on all orders and get them right the first time.

To spend 2K plus on a rear end to have it sounding like it is churning glass would **** me off a good amount.

That's one reason, I won't buy anything "setup" from Moser.

Grifter

iTrader: (12)

That's something that always bugged me too. Why not have those standard along with a fill and/or drain plug? I mean the rear is already so expensive, I don't see how it would be that much more to add those small, yet important, features.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Small features are how they bend you over and make the money off you.

35.00 for drain plug

100.00 for relocation brackets

65.00 more for 5/8" studs

100.00 more for 40 spline axles

150.00 more for aluminum center section

Companies do this all the time, like a 90 mm fast intake costs more to make than the 78mm intake?

Or a 260 cc head costs more than the 210 version to make?

It's the way people get screwed everyday all over the world and we are so used to wanting bigger and better, lighter and faster, we'll hand out our money with a smile on our face

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

I have to disagree with those who say moser sells crap. I have been buying their **** (LOL) for years and never had a problem. The biggist misconception here is that moser rears are out of the box and in the car. It is foolish at minimum to not inspect gear/ pinion contact's, bearings etc. I only use a spool so it alittle easier. But the rule of thumb should be "If you dont know what your doing. Dont touch it" Spend the xtra bucks and avoid the headaches. IMHO

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

I personally would have waited till at least 500 miles before I took it apart. Every set of gear instructions i've read said that its a 500 mile break in period. Im just basing my opinion off that.

3fingas

iTrader: (16)

By then, it may be too late.