Motor oil recomendation after H/C
02-07-2008, 11:26 PM
#5
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i use mobil 1 5/30 in all of my vehicles , and i have a 1995 GMC sierra 4x4 w/ 306,000 miles and not a thing has been done to it other than a intake gasket and a water pump, and i just had to change the factory alternator Monday . also have an extremely hard driven WS6 w/ 115,000 on it w/ not a problem other than a water pump . so that proves it to me just keep your oil /filter changed and you should be good to go
02-08-2008, 12:52 AM
#6
Have you ever heard of a used oil analysis? do you know what an additive package is? do you even know the difference between a synthetic base and a natural base?
I'm sure you could go visit some popular oil forums and tell them that every difference between the oils they're testing is made up and it doesn't matter. You could save us all a lot of time and money! On second thought, maybe you should just move to the next thread and do some more reading.
To the OP: if you like using a 10w40 my personal choice is RP XPR 41.
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02-08-2008, 11:55 AM
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German Castrol if you can find it... I prefer the Castrol Syntec in 10-30. I dont care for the mobil one anymore, and if I really want to treat my car, Ill feed her AmsOil. As long as its synthetic, you should be ok. Purebase synthetic is preferrable though.
02-08-2008, 07:47 PM
#12
Good god, are you ******* serious? And you're a sponsor? and a moderator?
Have you ever heard of a used oil analysis? do you know what an additive package is? do you even know the difference between a synthetic base and a natural base?
I'm sure you could go visit some popular oil forums and tell them that every difference between the oils they're testing is made up and it doesn't matter. You could save us all a lot of time and money! On second thought, maybe you should just move to the next thread and do some more reading.
To the OP: if you like using a 10w40 my personal choice is RP XPR 41.
Have you ever heard of a used oil analysis? do you know what an additive package is? do you even know the difference between a synthetic base and a natural base?
I'm sure you could go visit some popular oil forums and tell them that every difference between the oils they're testing is made up and it doesn't matter. You could save us all a lot of time and money! On second thought, maybe you should just move to the next thread and do some more reading.
To the OP: if you like using a 10w40 my personal choice is RP XPR 41.
Oil analysis is for the magazines and the internet. In the real world, any name brand oil is going to do the same thing. Lubricate the engine. It only becomes a factor when it's not changed properly.
02-10-2008, 07:31 PM
#18
Yes, I'm ******* serious. I build engines. I don't read the internet and sweat over peoples' oil "analysis" all day. I've seen engines broken down that have used almost every type of oil on the planet. They all look the exact same....Well of course there is an exception with the old Quaker state oils that had wax in them. Sludge city.
Oil analysis is for the magazines and the internet. In the real world, any name brand oil is going to do the same thing. Lubricate the engine. It only becomes a factor when it's not changed properly.
Oil analysis is for the magazines and the internet. In the real world, any name brand oil is going to do the same thing. Lubricate the engine. It only becomes a factor when it's not changed properly.
Reason for Rotela is its free for me. We run it on my tow boat that I run and they dont miss a gallon here or there
The main thing to any one is Change your oil on a regular basis and you will be fine.
