brakes sticking
04-06-2008, 03:11 AM
#1
brakes sticking/dragging ive got ls1 fornt brakes and every performance car ive owned or friend own has the same problem...seems like the brakes are on all the time
i cant spin the wheels more than a single turn
weird thing is my gf ss is completely stock and you can spin hers about 5-6 times
i took my caliper off it spins freely...
i lubed the slider pins
pushed out and in the caliper pistons a few times the yare smothe
and bleed the brakes and replaced the dot3 with dot4
problems is still there and not 1% better
car is street/strip abs stock master and booster still there...any opinions or ideas?
i cant spin the wheels more than a single turn
weird thing is my gf ss is completely stock and you can spin hers about 5-6 times
i took my caliper off it spins freely...
i lubed the slider pins
pushed out and in the caliper pistons a few times the yare smothe
and bleed the brakes and replaced the dot3 with dot4
problems is still there and not 1% better
car is street/strip abs stock master and booster still there...any opinions or ideas?
Last edited by daniel6718; 04-06-2008 at 06:31 PM.
04-09-2008, 10:30 AM
#7
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I would suspect the calipers first. You can take the pistons out and inspect the caliper seals for rips, and other damage, I suppose.
So this ocurrs on the right front and left front too? It would be very unusual to have stuct calipers on both sides at the same time, however.
Since they are not all that much to replace with rebuilt caliper units ($130 or so), you might want to try that. The caliper rebuild kits with new seals are great but somewhat hard to find at parts stores and such. Many have got them directly from GM.
Are the metal brake pad clips on the inside of the caliper installed correctly and are they in good shape? What about the caliper sliding pins; are they greased well?
So this ocurrs on the right front and left front too? It would be very unusual to have stuct calipers on both sides at the same time, however.
Since they are not all that much to replace with rebuilt caliper units ($130 or so), you might want to try that. The caliper rebuild kits with new seals are great but somewhat hard to find at parts stores and such. Many have got them directly from GM.
Are the metal brake pad clips on the inside of the caliper installed correctly and are they in good shape? What about the caliper sliding pins; are they greased well?
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04-09-2008, 03:00 PM
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Poor lubricated slider pins would likely cause one side of the pads to wear more than the other side.
The slider pins allow the caliper to move left and right as the pads wear.
To check these for lubrication, remove the caliper bolts, remove the caliper from the brackets (don't let them hang down from the brake line) and slide the pins out. Lubricate with some grease and re-install the pins and calipers. You will need to remove the reserviour cap and push the caliper pistons back into the caliper to re-install...
The slider pins allow the caliper to move left and right as the pads wear.
To check these for lubrication, remove the caliper bolts, remove the caliper from the brackets (don't let them hang down from the brake line) and slide the pins out. Lubricate with some grease and re-install the pins and calipers. You will need to remove the reserviour cap and push the caliper pistons back into the caliper to re-install...
04-09-2008, 09:44 PM
#9
i posted above that i had lubed them already...
changed all the fluid to dot4.....even with the caliper on break the screw loose(bleeder) then try to spin its still hard...i caliper rebuild kit i thought was less i though a new caliper fom the parts store was only like 50-60 bux
i dont know if thats what i need to do or stainless steel brake lines or what
changed all the fluid to dot4.....even with the caliper on break the screw loose(bleeder) then try to spin its still hard...i caliper rebuild kit i thought was less i though a new caliper fom the parts store was only like 50-60 bux
i dont know if thats what i need to do or stainless steel brake lines or what
04-10-2008, 03:37 PM
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I doubt it is the lines since they contain a braided inner core that is near bullet proof. You would see a bulge when the brakes are applied if the lines were shot. Anyway, I don't think this would cause the brakes to stick in the "on" position.
If the sliders are greesed and the chater clips are good then I would guess the caliper piston is cocked and sticks causing the brakes to continually grab.
...there was a trouble shoooting guide to brakes on the Net somewhere that told you the likely causes of mechanical and hydrolic parts issues. ...can't find it now, however.
If the sliders are greesed and the chater clips are good then I would guess the caliper piston is cocked and sticks causing the brakes to continually grab.
...there was a trouble shoooting guide to brakes on the Net somewhere that told you the likely causes of mechanical and hydrolic parts issues. ...can't find it now, however.
04-10-2008, 03:55 PM
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Link to Bendix chart on brake issues:
http://home.att.net/~m.prendergast-a...l/BRAKCHRT.htm
...according to this chart your situation is likely caused by a bad caliper seal, bad lines, wrong pads, or bad wheel bearings, I suppose.
Does this happen on both sides or just on the right or left?
http://home.att.net/~m.prendergast-a...l/BRAKCHRT.htm
...according to this chart your situation is likely caused by a bad caliper seal, bad lines, wrong pads, or bad wheel bearings, I suppose.
Does this happen on both sides or just on the right or left?
04-10-2008, 07:09 PM
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throwing my vote in for bad line.
I don’t know if it has changed any but I had a 86 bird that the rubber line went bad on. What happened is the layers of rubber separated causing a pinch.
The pinch separated to allow fluid to the caliper but will constrict again trapping the fluid in the caliper.
again I don’t know if they have improved any from back then.
I don’t know if it has changed any but I had a 86 bird that the rubber line went bad on. What happened is the layers of rubber separated causing a pinch.
The pinch separated to allow fluid to the caliper but will constrict again trapping the fluid in the caliper.
again I don’t know if they have improved any from back then.
04-11-2008, 05:45 AM
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are you noticing any abnormal wear? going through pads frequently, warping rotors all the time ect...?
04-11-2008, 08:03 AM
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Ok I went back and did a re-read. i missed the part where you said you broke the bleeder loose and still had the issue. By doing that you relieved any pressure that would have been in the caliper, so my theory of constricted line is wrong.
Id say at this point if its just on the one side the caliper my be f-ed but you said that the pistons moved free....
I just checked auto zones website and it lists two master cylinders for the lt-1 and the ls-1, this might explain any issues you would have while braking but I don’t see where this would cause a problem at rest.. but it might be worth reading up on just to make sure.
I think we are getting a little two in-depth with this... I am wondering if its just because you have new brake pads that haven’t had a chance to wear into a good clearance yet. Like they were manufactured a bit too thick for the caliper to come to a complete pressure free rest?
Looks like you may just have a true mystery on your hands……. Lucky you!
Id say at this point if its just on the one side the caliper my be f-ed but you said that the pistons moved free....
I just checked auto zones website and it lists two master cylinders for the lt-1 and the ls-1, this might explain any issues you would have while braking but I don’t see where this would cause a problem at rest.. but it might be worth reading up on just to make sure.
I think we are getting a little two in-depth with this... I am wondering if its just because you have new brake pads that haven’t had a chance to wear into a good clearance yet. Like they were manufactured a bit too thick for the caliper to come to a complete pressure free rest?
Looks like you may just have a true mystery on your hands……. Lucky you!
04-11-2008, 08:57 AM
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New pads?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
04-11-2008, 11:50 AM
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New pads?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
04-11-2008, 12:41 PM
#20
New pads?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
Put the old pads back on and see if it does this sticking thing.
If you worked on the brakes and now have an issue, the work you did is the cause.
If the sticking is both sides, and you have new pads then the pads are the issue; right? When you installed the new pads you are removing the reserviour top and pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper for the install: right?
no the pads are old off of another car that i had...never checked them on that car though...they have had plenty of wear exspecially with the dragging they do...
and yes i depresed the piston with the cap off...
i think the pads might be the culprit...like i said they spark so i think they are carbon metallic..im going to stick another type of pads on it and see if it goes away..if so ill be swapping pads soon
