Low power - 100 shot only adds 30whp
05-23-2008, 12:07 PM
#1
Low power - 100 shot only adds 30whp First attempt at nitrous and not very successful. I'm running dynotune dry system. Engine is 383ci 9.2:1, mild cam, exhaust, LS6 intake. Bottle pressure is 850-900psi. I spray it on the MAF, about 3 inches from it.
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot.
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot.
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
05-23-2008, 01:05 PM
#5
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http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm
Recheck your jets, up your pressure just because(i agree it wont help much...950ish) Check your nitrous filter and clean if necessary.
Recheck your jets, up your pressure just because(i agree it wont help much...950ish) Check your nitrous filter and clean if necessary.
05-23-2008, 05:58 PM
#7
From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine. This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
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05-23-2008, 06:04 PM
#8
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Suggesting him to spray BEYOND the maf is just plain stupid, a dry kit works by having the maf add the extra fuel, if you spray after the maf you are going go lean and to go POP
05-23-2008, 06:07 PM
#9
From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine. This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
05-24-2008, 11:52 AM
#10
You should do some research before you give advice as you are telling this guy how to blow his engine. This type of input really is a dis service to the n2o world in general, and the dry camp more pointedly. Try reading the wet vs dry thread, and then you'll be able to give accurate information and become an asset to the site.
Mac Daddy Wet vs Dry Thread
To the original poster, I would contact Dyno tune and talk to them. They will walk you through the diagnostic process, as surely, something is messed up. Myself, I would opt to just get a dry plate and Interface from HSW and be done with it. Good luck, and don't be disheartened, you'll get the dry kit figured out.
Robert
Mac Daddy Wet vs Dry Thread
To the original poster, I would contact Dyno tune and talk to them. They will walk you through the diagnostic process, as surely, something is messed up. Myself, I would opt to just get a dry plate and Interface from HSW and be done with it. Good luck, and don't be disheartened, you'll get the dry kit figured out.
Robert
From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine. This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
05-25-2008, 07:55 AM
#11
Lot of replies, thanks guys 
To answer some suggestions:
no nitrous filter
jet is correct size
there's no blow-down tube installed
how to check whether bottle valve opens all the way?
Robert: got to use what I have too much time and $$$ to get any more toys. I can't see why dry shot will not work eventually
I will try to heat the bottle up to 950psi, although I think flow is proportional to sq.root of pressure, so not much extra flow from +100psi
Maybe I should try run the system without jet at all? That should give me HP that solenoid is rated at - 175HP?
And no, I wouldn't spray dry after MAF
To answer some suggestions:
no nitrous filter
jet is correct size
there's no blow-down tube installed
how to check whether bottle valve opens all the way?
Robert: got to use what I have
too much time and $$$ to get any more toys. I can't see why dry shot will not work eventuallyI will try to heat the bottle up to 950psi, although I think flow is proportional to sq.root of pressure, so not much extra flow from +100psi
Maybe I should try run the system without jet at all? That should give me HP that solenoid is rated at - 175HP?
And no, I wouldn't spray dry after MAF
05-25-2008, 08:03 AM
#12
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Square root extraction for flow with pressures this high seem to have gotten skewed from my SOTP dyno, it certainly feels like there is a good bit more *** out of it from bumping up the pressure another 100psi.
If you run it w/o a jet would you have enough injector to supply that supposed 175hp shot?
If you run it w/o a jet would you have enough injector to supply that supposed 175hp shot?
05-25-2008, 12:49 PM
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From my experience, spraying nitrous at or before the MAF will cause a variety of problems due to the fact that you're no longer metering the natural flow of air into the engine. This will generally cause most systems to adjust mixture and sometimes timing.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
This is why plate systems are set at the throttle body, aside from the fact that you want liquid nitrous to have to travel as little as possible in before reaching the cylinders...
Try moving the nozzle closer to the TB and beyond the MAF.
05-25-2008, 12:55 PM
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First attempt at nitrous and not very successful. I'm running dynotune dry system. Engine is 383ci 9.2:1, mild cam, exhaust, LS6 intake. Bottle pressure is 850-900psi. I spray it on the MAF, about 3 inches from it.
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot.
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
What could be the problem? I can barely feel it if sprayed after 4500. If sprayed at 2500 it gives noticeable increase but not what I would expect from 100 shot.
AFR stays OK at 11.5-12.3, and there's no knock retard. Although I didn't change ignition maps, so it has 26-28 degrees in top rpm range
What am I doing wrong?
just dont spray yourself with it=bad freeze burn
05-25-2008, 01:54 PM
#15
I used teflon tape everywhere for sealing.
I activated system into the air just before putting it into intake bellow, seemed to have pressure, but didn't work properly right after assembling...
Of course I'll disassemble everything and reassemble, but I'm 80% sure all the connections are fine... Only thing that comes to mind is that pipe to the nozzle was severely bent right before the nozzle when I first installed it. I'll see how it looks now.
Anymore suggestions?
I activated system into the air just before putting it into intake bellow, seemed to have pressure, but didn't work properly right after assembling...
Of course I'll disassemble everything and reassemble, but I'm 80% sure all the connections are fine... Only thing that comes to mind is that pipe to the nozzle was severely bent right before the nozzle when I first installed it. I'll see how it looks now.
Anymore suggestions?
07-19-2008, 07:16 PM
#20
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easyest way to test the nitrous line is pull it out, put it to your mouth and see if you can blow through it =]
i dont know enough about solinoids to give you good info. =(
i dont know enough about solinoids to give you good info. =(