slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

The red wire that is attached to the alternator (98 LS1 camaro) goes too.... Connector C220? Can some one explain what C220 conector looks like and where it might be or look like. Thanks

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I don't know the answer to that, but I know a workaround after working on 98 based swaps...

It can be made to run through an indicator lamp that gets +12 at key-on and the other lead to the red wire on the alternator. At key-on the indicator will be on signifying no charging until the engine starts.

Alternately, you could use 75-95ish ohms between +12 ignition switched and the red wire. Stay above 65ohms with the resistor(s) or you could burn up the regulator in the alternator.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I would love to just hook up a switched 12v seperate wire then trying to chase a red wire in wire harness. A guy at the race track was telling me the same thing. ALso another guy on this board was saying that I need to send a reference signal to the alternator by putting a 470-500 ohm resistor between a switched 12V and the red wire it should work also. So I tried that 470 Ohm and the alternator still didn't want to send a charge to the battery. You are saying a 75-90 ohm resistor? I bought a variety pack of resistors from the circuit city here and it says that these resistors put out a 1/4 watt? Is that enough or do i need to get some bigger resistors?

Also I tried just hooking up a switched 12 v directly to the alt red wire. Would that possibly have fried the voltage regulator in the alternator? The guy from the track said he didn't think it would so I tried it and it actually kinda worked. The battery went from a 13 V not started to a 12.2 volts when it was idling. Before I hooked up the switched 12 V at idle it was showing like 10.8V reading. I just wanted to give you a little info on what I have tried so far. ANyways

1. so you figure 75 - 90 ohm will work? In my variety pack of resistors i have a 100 ohm is the smallest one. Should I try that?

2. And do you think the voltage regulator is fried from hooking up a direct 12v from a switched power?

Any help would be appreciated.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

1. yes- that 1/4 watt means that's the most power they can "eat". 100 ohm should be fine.

2. Yes, most likely. I found out after I burnt the one I was speaking about up doing the same thing

SouthStreet

If you plan to have your key on without the engine running for any extended time period you should find a 3-5 watt 80+ OHM resistor. 1/4watt will get hot quick with the key on engine off. Hot enough to burn through any wires or loom close to it and will fail eventually.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I don't think I would have the key on for a long time without the engine running because it is a drag only car. But thanks for the heads up. I will probably put a 3-5 watt resistor in anyways. Do you think i should be able to pick one up that big at circuit city? Or where should I start looking?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

buy it on the web

Doc

iTrader: (9)

Chase the wire, it's alot less work.

The 99+up pcm handles the alt turn on signal from the RED connector, pin 15.

C220 is behind the passenger side forward kick panel (caddy corner under the glove box).

The alt turn on signal on a 98 comes from the IC, goes to C220 and then thru the firewall to the alt.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

what's the IC?

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

Instrument Cluster... Ya I got it. So the red wire from the instrument cluster goes to C220 then to the alt? Can I just tap in a wire from the red wire on the Instrument cluster to the red wire on the alternator?

Doc

iTrader: (9)

The red pcm connector on your 98 car does not / should not have anything in the new 99+up configuration at pin 15. Just use a non working emissions pin of your choice, cut back a few inches and splice in a wire and run it to the red wire coming off the Alternator.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

I don't need an inline resistor?

Mean Green z28

iTrader: (17)

Ummm, I believe that wire is only a 5V reference signal from the PCM to tell it to start charging. I went through this whole ordeal when we custom wired a race car.
I put 12V and it fried the internals. Then I made a voltage divider (using some resistors in a Y) and sent ~5V to the new alt. and have had no issues since.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

Wow, I've sure gotten lots of different reply's. I think i am going to try and tap into a switched 12v (pink) then put my 470 Ohm resistor inline to that red wire on the alt. I hope that works. I will let you know tomorrow. I just had 2 alternators load tested one was good the other wasn't. So I am going to try and put the good one in tomorrow and mess around with some wiring. I'll keep you updated.

slowmaro98

iTrader: (8)

Yup it worked. I tapped into a switched 12V (pink) wire and put a 470 ohm resistor inline with the red wire and it started charging when I fired it up. Beauty,... problem solved.