Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads??
08-16-2003, 03:10 PM
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Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads?? I'm goin to swap out the cam, but not the heads I've made my mind up. L/Ts and other bolts-ons will follow. Which cams are to big for stock heads? I'm leaning towards X1 230/227 112 or a Comp XE 230/230 110+4. If these cams work ok with stock heads, drivability and idle are the next factors. I dont want a cam to stall on me around town for sure.
08-17-2003, 05:38 PM
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Re: Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads?? I'm running a Comp Cams 232/232 108LSA cam in my Aussie beast. Heads are stock, except for the PSi valve springs. The idle and daily driver ability are fine, only has a mild 'lump' at idle, and drives like a stockie in part throttle.
I'm also running with a mafless tune as well.
I'm also running with a mafless tune as well.
08-17-2003, 06:52 PM
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Re: Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads??
I'm also running with a mafless tune as well.
) but the gain is having no restiction prior to the throttle body.
08-17-2003, 09:46 PM
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Re: Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads?? i have a tr 230 wout tuningand can drive it around without dying out but i have an a4, since you have a m6, you can go bigger, plus if you get tuning, which i dont have til sat, it should be fine
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08-19-2003, 02:41 PM
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Re: Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads?? Im the guy with the 230/230 110+4 cam and my driveability is pretty good with the stock tuning.Im gonna adjust the t-body stop up a bit to raise the idle and I should be all set.The t-body was already drilled for my last cam and that was it.
08-20-2003, 10:18 PM
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Re: Which Cams are to Big For Stock Heads?? This getting waaaay off the original topic now.
Re Mafless tune,
This is all I know
The computer runs in back up mode, turn off all error codes that come up when the Maf is removed.
Spend some time in the Volumteric tables and some other areas and away you go.
It will take a long time to sort a tune out on a chassis dyno (and the first time it's done is the hardest)Once the tuner has done a few it is alot easier, manuals are easier than autos too.
The engine dyno is the easiest place to sort out such a tune as you can hold/maintain a certain rev easier and there are less interferences.
If your tuner is willing to spend some time (days) doing this then he will work it out.
On my next motor it will be a huge bonus not having this (Maf sansor) as it is a 434 with a slide throttle manifold and the air intake is as wide as the radiator and goes into an airbox on top of the motor that encompasses the intake trumpets.
I wish I could tell you more about the Mafless stuff but I don't know too much about it.
Re Mafless tune,
This is all I know
The computer runs in back up mode, turn off all error codes that come up when the Maf is removed.
Spend some time in the Volumteric tables and some other areas and away you go.
It will take a long time to sort a tune out on a chassis dyno (and the first time it's done is the hardest)Once the tuner has done a few it is alot easier, manuals are easier than autos too.
The engine dyno is the easiest place to sort out such a tune as you can hold/maintain a certain rev easier and there are less interferences.
If your tuner is willing to spend some time (days) doing this then he will work it out.
On my next motor it will be a huge bonus not having this (Maf sansor) as it is a 434 with a slide throttle manifold and the air intake is as wide as the radiator and goes into an airbox on top of the motor that encompasses the intake trumpets.
I wish I could tell you more about the Mafless stuff but I don't know too much about it.
